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Triumph TR6 - Electric fuel pump
|Would anyone have any info on replacing the stock mechanical fuel pump with an electric model.|
Are there any advantages to the electric and where is the best place to mount the replacement pump.
|Seeing that the old mechanical pump is ultra-reliable, I am not sure what the advantages of installing an electrical one. Not sure if a carburated engine needs an electric pump...sounds like a new headache being dreamed up.|
|Considering that my TR6 won't let me have functional gas and temp gauges if the radio and headlights are on at the same time, I shudder to think what might happen to a fuel supply dependent upon the same electrical system. Good luck.|
|Jeff--Check out the pumps made by Facet. They are relatively inexpensive and very reliable (assuming it has power!). You can simply abandon your existing mechanical pump in-place and join the inlet/outlet pipes with a suitable union. For the pump to work properly, however, it has to be mounted below and near the fuel tank. Depending on the mount location, it can emit an annoying clicking sound. I've never gone this route on a TR6, but only on a '71 bug. I agree with the others--the stock arrangement is OK.|
Sounds like you are in big need of a voltage stabilizer. Replace it and you will have properly functioning gas and temp gauge regardless if your lights and/or radio are on or not.
|Do not leave the stock one on !! I read why once and it has do do with the gas lubricating the pump or something, but it is a big no-no.I don't suggest you change unless you are adding more hp.I put mine behind the back board in the trunk.|
|Don--Your point well taken. I ran a VW for almost ten years with the pump abandoned in place with no problems, however. I guess if you can't find a cover plate for the pump, you could cut the actuating lever off the pump and reinstall.|
|I installed a Facet electrical pump and have about 6,000 miles on with no problems. I made that change because the mechanical AC pump was worn out and leaking. I decided that in future I might like to run weber carbs which are sensitive to fuel pressure so went with the electrical pump combined with a fuel pressure regulator. I mounted the pump on the inside of the frame rail using a small aluminum bracket located about 6" from the clutch slave cyl toward the rear of the car. The pump does made a clicking sound that isn't that you don't hear when the engine is running. The electrical setup works fine but isn't really neccessary if your mechanical pump is working as designed. The electrical pump doesn't increase engine performance on a stock engine.|
|The stock pumps are very reliable, however they don't last indefinitely.|
I had a Midget 1500 a while ago that the PO had bypassed the mechanical fuel pump w/ an electric unit that eventually failed. This was a good driver, so I wasn't concerned about originality and I replaced the failed pump w/ a Facet then fabricated and installed a blanking plate for the old pump.
Facet makes pumps w/ several output pressures. Get the lowest pressure (2.5psi?). Our carbs. operate on relatively low pressure. I mounted the pump on thick rubber bushings on a bracket to isolate the noise. I took switched power off of the fuse block and grounded it to a body bolt. If I did it now (older, maybe wiser) I'd install an impact switch to kill the pump in a collision or rollover.
I made the mechanical pump blanking plate from 1/4" aluminum using the old gasket as a template. On the Midget, you have a spacer and need a thick plate due to the shoulders on the mounting studs, not sure about the TR6. Shoot it gloss black, Hylomar the gaskets and you are all set, looks OK too.
On my TR6 where I stay original, the original pump is weeping a bit from the mounting gasket and from the cap bolt. I found an old pump and bought a good rebuilding kit. This will be a winter project. There is a wide range of rebuilding kits, OE quality to downright bad, but that can be a new thread.
Good luck, W
|Thanks for all the information and suggestions.|
I should have been more clear on my situation. The mechanical non-original pump failed and it seems to be more of an economic decision on wheather to replace the pump with a Facet/Purolator at $30.00 (Pepboys) or a good original mechanical pump with lever for $80.00.
Also my first TR6 developed a vapor lock on a hot summer day and the only way to solve the problem and to get out of Grants Pass Oregon was to install an electric.
This thread was discussed between 13/11/2002 and 14/11/2002
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