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Triumph TR6 - Emissions Removal
|Happy New Year to all !|
On my 1975 TR6 my EGR valve was shot so I removed it along with the pipe going to the manifold and sealed the holes.
My question is what about the charcoal canister / the hoses to the valve cover / carbs and the vapour line back to the fuel tank / Are they also to be disconnected as part of the emission system removal ?
Thanks in advance
|yes the canister, PCV and vapour line is part of the emission system but should stay intact as they don't affect performance of the vehicle and actually do good.|
PCV valve recycles blow by gases from inside the engine and feed them back into the carb to be burned.
The vapour line (Evaporative emission control system) prevents the fuel vapour from escaping into the atmosphere and is connected to the charcol canister. Again the vapours are recycled into the carbs to be burned.
Also connected to the casister is the anti run-on valve which certainly can be benefiscial.
Things to remove (which robs the engine of power and affects driveability):
1. Air pump -US cars from 1975 on; Canadian cars 1976. As it runs off the engine it requires a couple of HP to turn it and by the way is not a supercharger as a couple of newby's tried to tell me a few years ago
2. EGR valve - 1974+ (usually over time becomes stuck open and reduces power by sending too much exhaust gases back into the intake to be burned once again). This never works well from the get-go.
3. Retard Vacuum (screws up idle)
|I am considering buying a 1972 TR6 to restore, one of my concerns was the Emissions systems. I like the '72 for not only the chrome minus the giant bumpers, but it seemes to me it's the last one before the extensive federal emissions program mucked up the engine compartment. Is this true in your opnion, and should I be looking for any other "surprise" type problems.|
Rust is never a "surprise", but finding one without it will be. I mean other '72 issues.
Pretty much clean and straight forward for emissions.
Start car and let run for a bit then go for a drive. Look at your oil pressure throttle and idle. Even if car is not roadworthy if engine will run get the owner to start and leave run for 10 minutes check water and oil pressure. Then most important have him shut it down wait about 2 minutes and have him restart. If it turns over nice and starts, engines probably not to bad.
Look for Crankwalk in engine explanation sight is here. Motor will run ok with this for awhile but you don't want it unless its real cheap.
Drive the car listen for clunks changing direction forward and reverse. No its not a U joint as the owner will tell you. Differental mount pins 1 or more have broken loose from frame. Can be fixed without removing body.
Look at frame where trailing axle mounts look for rusted out or cobbled repairs. Very dangerous. Big job.
If the owner will let you. Take it for an alignment check. Lets you know if its had any major bangs in its life that weren't fixed right. And broken/bent front wheel mountings.
If you find the car of your dreams take a look make notes and then post. One of us at least has been there done that and will let you know.
By the way mine is a 72 had for 18 years doing a complete frame off at present. Slowly oh so slowly.
If you have questions ask.
This thread was discussed between 31/12/2002 and 25/01/2003
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