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Triumph TR6 - ENGINE REMOVAL
|IS IT POSSIBLE TO REMOVE THE ENGINE FROM THE CAR WHILE LEAVING THE TRANSMISSION BEHIND, OR IS IT TO TOUGH TO GET TO ALL THE BOLTS THAT JOIN THE TWO?|
Having taken the engine out recently cos clutch plate stuck to the flywheel,
i would elect to take the whole lot out.It was difficult enough putting them back together out of the car
with loads of room to work, let alone with gearbox still in-situ'.
Best of luck
|Either way is OK, providing that the bolts and studs around the top of the gearbox housing that locate in the rear of the block are accessible from inside the car. It is a big advantage to be able to remove the gear box leaving the engine in place ( eg to replace clutch plates)- this can be difficult if the engine and box have be fitted together out of the car and no care taken to ensure those bolts clear the edge of the firwall tunnel.|
Incidentally , I freed a badly frozen clutch plate using generous sprays of releasing fluid (over several days) and then starting engine with rear wheels jacked up and second gear engaged. A helper then released the jack suddenly!!A bit brutal , but effective- and the clutch has worked OK for past four years.
|You can remove the engine leaving the trans in place HOWEVER any time savings is lost when trying to align the two when reinstalling the engine and getting them fit together. Take the two out together, the transmision does not add that much weight to the overall package as it is only around 65lbs believe it or not!! and the only thing you have to detach is the propshaft flange (4 bolts), rear trans mount (4bolts) and the clutch slave cyl (2 bolts and 1 cotter pin...sure beats the 18 or so bolts around the bell housing with the top 3 very hard to get to.|
|STEVEN- YOUR COMMENT SWAYED ME,THE ONLY CONCERN IS DO I HAVE TO PULL UP THE CARPET @ THE TRANS TUNNEL AND DO I HAVE TO UNDO THE SHIFTER?|
You will still need to remove gearbox tunnel to get to rear mountings and the overdive and reverse light wiring on top of gearbox. To do this, the gear lever also needs to come off. In my experience engines last much longer (200,000 miles) than gearboxes or clutches (50,000 at best)so ensuring the gearbox can be changed leaving the engine in place is well worthwhile.
|having removedand replaced quite a few engines& trannys i found the quickest way was to remove the tranny first then the engine. when refitting install engine first then get two bolts 4-6 inches long cut the heads off remove the short studs and screw the bolts in their place, when fitting the tranny locate it on the long bolts first easy as there are only 2 and then the box can pushed onto the engine easily as the clutch is already lined up the bolts take the weight of the box whilst you line up the splines on the clutch plate.|
This thread was discussed between 16/04/2001 and 24/04/2001
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