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Triumph TR6 - Excessive negative camber


I need the collective brilliance of the group out there.

I have too much negative camber on the drivers side front wheel. There are no shims to remove so how do you adjust it further? Does this indicate a more serious problem and if so any suggestions as to the cause and remedy.
N.T. Peniston

If something is worn like the bushings it could cause your wheel to go more negative camber. Has the front suspesion been rebuilt with new bushings and such?

HP Henry Patterson


I agree with Henry. Our cars are 30+ years old. When I bought mine two years ago, the bushings were original and I had the problem you describe. Correcting this the right way will tighten up the car and add to its safety.

You can find a number of threads regarding the material to use upon replacement. I went with urethane because of durability and a firmer feel. Others have gone the OE route. It's personal preference.

What started out as a simple project wound up taking weeks since it was "already up on the rack." I replaced all bushings, springs, lowered the car 1 1/2 inches, uprated springs, replaced steering rack mounts, etc. Correcting the rear camber after lowering the car was a bear of a job. There is a thread dedicated just to this (including formulas for bracket positions) in the archives. I don't know if that information made it onto CDII.

I will say it's not the same car I bought once the suspension was finished. Maybe too firm a ride for some, but I enjoy it.

Hope your issue is nothing serious.

Don from Jersey
74 CF19053U

'74! '74! '74! Rah! Rah! Rah!

Don from Jersey

I'll take a long shot here and ask "did they mention anything about the top bushings?" Upper bushings that have gone soft and distorted can result in a gain of negative camber.

The stock TR6 upper suspension bushings are a rather sorry set of bits I must say. Even if you don't want to run performance bushings anywhere else, I would suggest to every TR2 through 6 owner out there that they run either polyurethane or nylatron upper suspension bushings as they will hold hold up much better.

Hi Steve,

You may be right.The top bushings look cracked and compressed.
I will replace them all with the polyurethrane ones and hopefully that will correct the problem.

Thanks for the feedback!

Regards, Neil.
N.T. Peniston

The upper standard rubber bushings will crack and split after short order after installation. At least the ones I got did, and many have posted similar results. I would upgrade to the poly or urathane ones. One thing I regret not doing when I refreshed all the bushings upfront with standard rubber, I should also have invested another $75 and got two new front springs. After all was installed I get tire rub on the front fenders while driving straight if I hit a moderate bump. My tires are 195/75/15 so it is only slightly larger rolling diameter than the 185X. I bet my front springs are a bit tired. Next time I will go with uprated bushings and a new spring set.
MRankin '71 TR6 CC61212L

Have you checked the ball joint? A worn ball joint will make negative camber. There is a load on it so a crowbar is needed to check for wear.

DOn Ho


I noticed in your other posting you mentioned that the lower wishbone mounting brackets look like they have been messed with. from what I've read the failure of those brackets was quite common and new ones are welded on or the originals repaired. It looks like any competend welder could weld some new brackets in place without have the body off the frame.
I know they sell those brackets and are reinforced to be stronger than the originals. I don't know how deep you want to get into it but you could probably replace those brackets to solve your problem.

HP Henry Patterson

This thread was discussed between 14/07/2006 and 19/07/2006

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