MG-Cars.net

Welcome to our resource for MG Car Information.

Recommendations

Parts

TR parts and Triumph parts, TR bits, Triumph Car Spares and accessories are available for TR2, TR3, TR3A, TR4, TR4A, TR5, TR6, TR7, TR8, Spitfire and Stag and other TR models are available from British car spares and parts company LBCarCo.

Triumph TR6 - Few questions need help on

hello everyone,

I have a1974 TR6<>

1.
I If were to change the suspension on the ar could I go with a regular after market set?

2. What parts of the body would you sugges to watch for rust on?

3. emision control items on the car if taken off would it help the HP??

4. For a person with little money where could I get a cheeeeeep carpet set?
JM Mayer

I can only help with the carpet. Our local home center has automotive carpet, and you can order it from a number of automotive trim supply places by the yard (meter?). Your local trim guy might sell you some, too. JC Whitney I think sells it too. If you're not going to be showing the car, you can cut some carpet and make it look pretty good for very little money. If you still have a bit (of money)left over, you can have the trim guy or a shoe repair place or something sew vinyl around the edges. I'm thinking less than $100 total.

Oh well, let me take a stab at your first question. Leave it stock until you have more money!

My dyslexia is showing...Watch everything for rust, lower panels, behind wheels, in crevices, under carpet (hehe). Just search for Triumph rust, you'll come up with lots of pics showing where the worst rustouts are.

Enjoy your British car!
Tom

2
The cars can and do rust just about everywhere, check the inner sills below the dash under the carpet and more importantly check the chassis particularly where the rear trailing arms attach.
3
If you dump the emmissions stuff you will get a noticable improvement in the performance of the car, but have you any local regulations that this might contravene?

Ron
R. Algie

"Contravene," just another example of why I like this BBS. I hit several different car related boards and can say that by and large, this one is the best of the bunch. The level of discourse is high, postings generally tend to use appropriate capitalization, punctuation and are well written. Even when something approachs being a flame war, it is obvious that much that is said/typed is done with tongue firmly planted in cheek. There is much participation around the world and even for those where English (Queen's or otherwise) is a second language, it all comes through, and they can rest assure that their English is much better than my Dutch, French, German, etc.

I think about some of those other boards I visit and I just cannot imagine ever seeing anyone use the word contravene. Keep it up, well done Ron.

SteveP

I also own a 74. Just wonder how to dump the emission stuff, and how much I can gain?
Paddy Kan

I also own a '74. It is an early model year car. There is little in the way of emissions contrivance. Air pumps and EGR came in later years. What could one do to this year that would make an appreciable difference? I'm not necessarily looking for more HP, only a little better reliability, less maintenance and better milage.

Steve is right on with his observations. Users of this board put time and thought into their communications and actually know where the shift key is. I wonder what the comparable Ford/Chevy message boards look like. I hope to never have a reason to know...

I'm trying to "enrich my word power."

Don from Jersey
D Hasara

Get a 71--the pollution control consists of a carbon cannister! Don, don't denigrate your aptitude for expressive intercourse as it might vitiate one's opinion of your mental alacrity.

John
JL Bryan

John,

Okee-dokee!

I've already got a '74, so your advice on acquiring a '71 would be a bit costly at this juncture.

Don
D Hasara

Hi JM,

1. "Regular" aftermarket suspension stuff is just fine. Poly bushings, spring, shock and sway bars will do ya. Check to be sure your chassis/suspension pick up points have been strengthened. I think most '74's have been.

2. Rust is always a concern. Check the rear swing arm bracket area of the frame.

3. Removing will help a little bit - I have a 74 and disconnected that silly vaccume ignition retard and giving it propper ignition advance helped.

4. I don't have an answer to that. I'm looking for a "nice/cheap" one myself.

Hope this helps,
Tim
Tim Brand

The following link shows an inexpensive carpet set. You can choose the color and piping color as well. This seller has two sets for the six. One in blue and the other in black. The blue set has no bids($139.95) the black eight($165.00). Not sure why as you are able to choose color after the auction. I have never seen these products only know they can be had for little money as compared to others. Looking at feedback, most seem happy.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=2487465079&category=34206&sspagename=WDVW
Ashley

I have this set in my car. There are no instructions, but I was able to use a instructions I believe I got from Buckeye. Mine is shadow blue. The color is a near perfect match.

Don from Jersey
D Hasara

I should, first of all, emphasise that I am offering an opinion here, not stating a fact. (It is important that we note the distinction!)
Raising the compression ratio is probably the most cost effective way to improve power output on a North American market TR6. This is not an emission control item in the normal sense but the ratio was kept artificially low to reduce emission of oxides of nitrogen.
"Hot Rod" has stated, based on testing, that a 10% increase in compression ratio will give a 4% increase in both hp and torque. These cars have ratios from 7.5 to 8:1, and can easily accept 9 to 9.5:1 so a 6-8% improvement is available.

It will cost about $80 to $100 to skim the head and $60 for a head gasket.

On rust, look in all body seams and the spare wheel well and battery tray in addition to the places already listed.
Good luck!
Simon.
Simon Rasmussen

JM,

Welcome dude. Here's my opinion:

1. Suspension:
Replace every rubber bushing with poly.
-Front upper and lower A-Arms,
-rear trailing arms.
-Swaybar bushings.
-Steering rack mounts.
Replace front shocks with Koni

2. Rust: Safety first! Check all the suspension mounting points and pay special attention to the rear trailing arm mounting bolts and frame members. Very important!

After looking at the frame, check the floor pans, front panels around the headlights. Rear wings up on the inside corner.

3. Emmsions: I'd rip it all out just on general principles to achieve a simpler engine bay to work on. Less to go wrong. Less clutter to look at. You prolly don't gain much unless you do other things such as raise the compression ratio and all the other usual stuff like cams, carbs, exhausts and the like. (But mind you I live in a region where there is no emmision laws!)

3. Carpet - using your existing carpets as a template, use indoor/outdoor carpeting to make new peices.

Good luck with your TR.

JohnP

John Parfitt

This thread was discussed between 19/08/2004 and 20/08/2004

Triumph TR6 index

This thread is from the archive. The Live Triumph TR6 BBS is active now.