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Triumph TR6 - Follow up to 'Frozen Transmission'
Updating a discussion we started in November;
Couldn't get into gear, was getting fluid on my left shoe, and only getting a 1/2 inch travel on my slave push-rod, so:
Re-built the clutch master with new seals.
Replaced slave cylinder with new.
Filled and bled system with Dot 4.
At this point I was still only getting 1/2 inch of travel and still could not get into gear. I checked the master to slave hose; it's solid, no expansion. I then moved the slave push-rod to the bottom hole on the clutch release lever.(Both holes are slightly ovalled.)
This seems to have done the job, but only barely. I'm still only getting 1/2 inch of travel, and I am 'just' getting into gear.
Any advice on how to proceed? My clutch pedal stops at the floor; I've even thought about filing off some of the stop at the back of the pedal where it hits the floor. I've also thought about washers on the back side of the slave bracket.
I've read about proper travel being anywhere from 1/2 inch to 1 1/2 inches. What's the real distance?
I'm probably missing something really simple and stupid. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
|Check the free play in your clutch pedal,you find that the hole which the clevis pin passes through at the clutch master cylinder has become elongated due to lack of greasing.Several people i spoke to when i had this problem told me either to weld up the hole and redrill it out,or buy a new clutch pedal arm,i went for the latter and it cured my problem, also check for play in the clutch /brake pedal cross shaft if worn or they are plastic change them.|
|ps ,bushes in the clutch/brake pedal cross shaft.|
|pps if problem still persists check out www.buckeyetriumphs.org or Minnesota triumphsthse websites have excellent articles on the tr6 clutch problems.|
|Just realized, it was the 'Top' hole in the slave/clutch arm connection that let me 'just' get into gear. Middle and bottom holes didn't allow enough travel.|
|Keith. I don't want to sound pessimistic, but while you say you have fixed the problem, it may only be temporary - I don't think you have solved it or eliminated it.|
Keep thinking about it and good luck.
Don Elliott, 1958 TR3A
Your solution of using the top hole in the arm is not a solution. The TR6 is supposed to use the middle hole, no exceptions. Under no circumstances would I grind off metal from your pedals.
While cars are designed my engineers the company is controlled my accountants...the bottom line is, every peice has a purpose and there is a reason why something is designed that way (of course some brands do it better than others). Car company's would be the first to cut an extra part if it is not needed...they are stingy and tight organizations and achieving the bottom line is their nirvana.
I suspect that you still have air in the system somewhere, especially since you have a new slave. Most garages will bench bleed a component before afixing. Since I did not have access to a compresser I did my slave manually before the rod is conneceted, by moving the push rod in and out several times and bleeding it that way.
In my letter first on the topic months ago, other factors can cause full release problems. Partially broken release fork pin on the shaft, worn pins on the fork itself that attach to the release bearing. also worn bushings on the release shaft will also result in a partila release. Either double up on them or use TR3 bushings.
A proper 6 will release at the very bottom of the pedal stroke make sure the carpet or underpadding is not to thick there if you replaced it recently. A TR 6 clutch is very heavy and works like a light switch..either on or off (released or engaged).
hope this helps
I had the exact same problem with my '76. My problem was the release fork pin. Once replaced, and with a second bolt drilled for extra measure, the problem was corrected. I also added washers to the back of my slave because I felt the piston was to far near the end of the slave when the clutch was fully depressed. For final measure, since I had the gearbox out, I installed what TRF calls their super clutch kit. But i did not buy from TRF, i found out what the components are and bought them individually which saved me half. E-mail me if you would like to know the parts
|I agree with Michael Parkhill. I had the same problem with my '74. I found that the clutch release fork pin had broken and someone had tried to weld the fork to the cross shaft! I ended up replacing the shaft, fork, bushings and pin and added a bolt as per intructions at obsoleteauto.com Apparently this is a common problem with the TR6. It's not an easy job at all - mine was easier because I had the body off at the time.|
This thread was discussed between 12/01/2002 and 25/01/2002
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