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Triumph TR6 - Frame Rebuild

Hi All

I have started to rebuild my 72 TR6 frame. Cutting out rust and welding in new metal. I would like to hear from anyone who has been through this, self done or by shop.

I am an experienced trained welder and been involved with Rods for 30 years as a hobby. None with 16 gauge frames. Have a fully equipped shop with all tools from pressure sandblaster, airtools handtools to paint guns . Miller 130 and 250 migs and Oxy/acetylene equip. Everything except a frame machine and heavy gauge metal brake so I farm that out to friends. My Wife is just not very understanding about men's toys(:

I would like to hear about any problems idea's or procedures learned or heard of. That may improve the chassis. Have added all the comercialy suggested plates etc. over the last 18 years and still have lots of failure in diff mount area. And from anyone who has said MORE POWER and tossed in a V8. May get wild and go that route yet.

I have had the repair channels formed by a friend in fabricating rather than use the repop ones. Purchased upper and lower cruciform plates. Made several 4 foot lengths 16 gauge in the different sizes used. The original bolt area stiffeners for trailing arms seem to have been superior to welding in a few peices of pipe on repops. But did have more doubled area to help rust. Plan to use somewhat the same idea as original with the addition of weld through galvenizing compound. Any thoughts are welcome.
I have a digital camera and am logging progress so if anyone wants an idea of what I found and what I am doing. I can send you pics.

B Brayford

I recently had to have the front brace fixed, (forward from the box frame up at about 30 degrees to top front suspension mount). There is a drain port but water can collect at the wheel well attachment point and get into the brace. Look at this point before re-assembly. Also, I repaired the diferential mounts by cutting the rotten posts out and using huge washers and heavy guage thread rod in their place. Of course the main area for rebuilding is the rear suspension mounts. Be very careful with the alignment otherwise toe in/ toe out and wheel angle will be out of whack and difficult to correct.

The fellow who did the suspension mounts did a fine job with the box frame section cut ond and replaced entirely.

Good luck, it can be done successfully.

Thanks Bryn

The front Braces on mine have no drains so I will cut them out and probably find rotten steel. Never thought of them. Did you buy the frame sections or were they repop?

At the rear I am working on a design for a new beefed up rear diff. mount saddle. From the cracking on the top of the passenger side front diff. mount or bridge as it is called. The rear mount bridge has way too much flex. Front pass. mount seems to be taking all the stress. From a Rodding standpoint I would call it a 20 beer solution.

The pins on both are not damaged or bent. Original and in good shape just the areas they are welded to the arch. So they got that spec right. I will be fabricating a new rear arch complete. Removing the damaged steel from front top bridge and welding in replacement. There is some torsional flex damage on the passengers side inward and down corresponding with force damage to Diff. bridge. Don't know what I am going to do about that yet. But will decide before final welding.

My original 1977 factory BL manual has all the measurements. Do I believe them? NO. I made original measurements noted and marked. Trailing arm supports will be put back exact to original. On my frame cart to prevent weld warpage. Have 2 friends with alignment businesses compared both there specs with book. According to my book my frame is an inch and a quarter too short on drivers and an inch and a half on passengers there specs show out by one quarter on passengers side. Center and rear measures OK by book.

When I get to the rolling chassis stage. I will load on my car trailer and take for alignment, probably have to weld on and remove clamp points to make any pulls by frame machine.

Post on TOR. club sight Texas rolling chassis for $2200. looked good for a bit but I've always been stubborn. Sort of like Rick C. pointed out rather do it myself.


B Brayford

This thread was discussed between 10/09/2002 and 13/09/2002

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