Welcome to our resource for MG Car Information.
Triumph TR6 - front shock mounting bolts/threads
|My 11 year-old rallied me off the couch the other day to install the new shocks that I've had lying around. Anyway, we got the 4 bottom bolts off after a wd40 soak (I believe these are the O.E. dampers I'm trying to remove...) but the top bolt would not budge and as I would really bear down and turn so would the shock outside cover. I then unwisely used vise grips to try to keep the shock from turning and they slipped down a bit and have buggered up the threads enough that if I were to unseize the bolt it would not unscrew all the way. My thinking is I may be able to file the gummed up threads and the bolt could slip on over this, maybe. Any other ideas?|
|The best way for damaged threads is with a tap and die set..half decent sets can be found for under $50 Canadian $10 US for you ! haha|
If you are talking about the top bolt from the old shock then try and cut it off with a hacksaw or heat the nut though it's hard to get lots of heat at home with propane..I use a small acetylene tank..much hotter...last but not least drill the bolt to weaken it and pry it off.
|Ahem..I meant drill the nut..sorry|
|...drill the nut, got it! Great idea, thanyou Charlie|
|I am looking at this winter as a good time to replace both the front and rear setup with new shocks|
i searched the archives to see if anyone has done the rear shock conversion and what their experiences were with the effort. I have heard that when using larger wheels (15 x 6 inch) with wider tires that this can place too much strain on these bolt on kits where they mount...i dont race my car but is this something to be concerned about?
also, i assume that once all 4 corners are done i will need to re adjust alignment, camber etc?
There is a past thread (posts)on this subject. It may be hidden in another thread though.
If I recall there was one of the conversations that was not up too snuff for spirited driving.
Be carefull and I am sure you will get more details.
Some ARCHIVES to look at:
May 2000, REAR SHOCK CONVERSION
July 2004, MODERNIZING REAR SHOCK ABSORBERS
|Bob, I had just done the rear conversion before I went to work on the fronts. I noticed an improvement with just the rears completed. I now make it over more bumps without the cd player skipping (probably a cheap cd player) which serves as a good indicator for me for measuring ride improvement. Also, the car still tracks good after the change-out so no apparent need to re-align.|
Do you own a hack saw, air powered cutoff saw, sawsall
or a blow torch? Even a cold chisle and hammer would do the trick.
|Chris in Okie|
whose conversion kit did you use in the rear..some older threads waver 50/50 on the use of the KYB kit generally available...i dont intend to race but am looking for a tight setup
|Bob, I use that kit on my TR4a, but with the optional Spax shocks which are adjustable for firmness.|
I would suggest the KYB shocks are adequate but a little soft, keeping in mind the wheel/tyre combination of the TR6 is heavier than on the earlier cars with their narrower rims.
This kit uses the original mounting points on the chassis, not on the body which was not intended for the stress of suspension loads. I have had my car set up this way for 7 years now and am very pleased. Adjustments can be made in a few minutes as I have used the car for track events as well as normal driving.
|chris trace: thanks for the suggestions, I have a hacksaw and maybe a sawsall so I'll just have to get after it...|
bob: I have the kit Simon refers to (kit "generally available") but with the kyb's. If the price of the spax shocks don't SHOCK you then consider those. I would have gone spax but they seem a little too pricey to me.
I am running 15 x 6 wheels with 205/60 tires, did you experience any clearance issues with the new shocks when you converted over?
|Mr. E, I recommend a dremel tool with a reinforced cutoff wheel to cut through the nut. Once it's broken, you can get it off.|
|Bob, I'm running wider tires then you,215/65R15s and I have no rubbing problem so you shouldn't as long as |
the camber is correct.
|I've only 195/60/15's , I seem to have plenty of clearance.|
Tom, I may put the dremel to the test, I'll have to make sure I have a reinforced cutoff wheel, thanks.
|Well, it doesn't _have_ to be reinforced, but take a few of the regular ones to the wheelwell, you'll probably zing a couple.|
|Just a note on SPAX. |
I went the extra buck and purchased the Spax adjustables for the front of my '74. Trouble is, I can just make out the adjustment screw behind a coil of the spring, no matter which way the shock is mounted. Also one of the plastic dust covers has broken away. Makes tweeking a pain in the butt. In hindsight I would not have bought them, but shopped around for another brand or maybe a fixed SPAX. Don't get me wrong SPAX makes an excellent product, but dialing them in was a pain.
I'm happy with the KYB kit on the rear. Perhaps a bit soft but way superior to those nasty levers. Too harsh a ride makes long distance travel a bit grueling. Keeping proper tire pressure and a proper alignment solves tracking and thereby smoothes the ride.
Just my two cents,
|I got the KYBs from some guy off Ebay. There is usually a set for sale there. A lot cheaper then TRF. I really like them. Car really feels good in turns and cruises fine. In fact, I'm begining to worry. I have been hitting some 40mph corners aproching 70. And it doesn't feel bad. And that worries me. There are too many deer around here for that!|
This thread was discussed between 23/08/2005 and 31/10/2005
Triumph TR6 index
This thread is from the archive. The Live Triumph TR6 BBS is active now.