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Triumph TR6 - front wheel bearings
|Canadian Tire mechanics are idiots.|
When I took the TR in for a safety earlier this year, they told me they didn't have the front wheel bearings in stock, so they tightened them instead. The car got a clean bill of health. Last Sunday, the passenger side front wheel bearing failed; the stub axel sheared and the wheel came off the car. (It could have ended very badly but self and car are okay).
Question: is it difficult to change the stub axel in the vertical link for a '73. The manuals indicate that it is integral to the vertical link on 'early models' but doesn't go into detail about changing the axel for later models. Is this work (and changing the bearings) best left to qualified mechanics or is it something I can do myself. Certainly, I know I can do a better job than Canadian Tire.
It can be done. I don't know how well equipped for tools you are though? If you don't have a good array of jacks and stands pullers, hot wrench etc. you may send your stress level right through the roof.
The stub axel has a taper fit both ends. Probably been there forever although hub would have been off I think at CT? You should be able to pull the hub off and bang out the stub axel by the book? Yah maybe when the car was new?
If you don't have a full shop and suspension experience. I suggest that JD auto that Chris likes in Toronto. I think thats were you are?
If you decide to try it your self let me know and I will test on mine sitting on floor.
After you get it done at JD you should fire off the bill to Crappy tire!!! MAN....You sound awfully calm about this!
I did this job last year while restoring my car. One side was extremely difficult involving the use of heat & a large hammer, in fact we were almost at the point of giving up when it dropped out, the other side fell out after a couple of hard taps!!! so I guess you could say its just a matter of pot luck.
I lapped the new stub axles in before fitting them.
By the way I read in a resto book somewhere that it is prudent to renew these stubbs as a matter of course after about 60 or 70000 miles as there design was marginal anyway.
Best of luck with the job but I would agree with Bill if your not familiar with this type of work farm it out.
The job is being done in situ where the car broke down, 20 mins. west of Syracuse. I'll liekly get the bearings on the left side done at the same time. How hard is a bearing job (inner and outer)? Apparently the brake caliper is also damaged and requires replacement. This is not a commonly available part. Any sources in Toronto or NE US?
The saga continues.
PS: I am still fuming about the lousy job CT did. I think its close to criminal negligence.
Do I dare say to you that Crappy Tire might have the calipers? I had them do mine at $99 exchange. Be carefull wether you get the metric ones back.
|Does anyone know if the calipers on my '73 TR6 (May) are Girling 16PB or M16. I found one but I'm being asked what type I need.|
I'm going to have a tough time buying calipers from CT.
|Bryn, pretty sure your brakes are 16pb.|
The stub axle is held on by the upper ball joint
that is fairly easy to remove with a
pickle fork. Your shop will have one. The lower is
screwed off the trunion and the third point is the
the control arm ball joint.( a thinner pickle fork)
I would certainly send this story to The Toronto Star
newspaper that has a great auto section. They publish
letters like this and shame the company into submission.Crappy Tire is one of the most complained
about in this section will almost always buckle and
give you your money back. More to the point, if their
work had caused you to crash then they would be paying a lot more. Personly, I never go to a shop where every
guy on the floor still has pimples.
|According to the book.|
Girling type 16p imperial threads to com CC29929.
Type 16pb imperial from CC29930 to CC81078
Type M16 metric after CC81078
Definately get the other side replaced and checked by the sounds of it.
Amen to that Chris
There's some threads in the archive about using newer Toyota calipers that fit the TR6, and are much cheaper and more modern (I assume that means better?). I had my original calipers rebuilt by Apple Hydrualics last year, and they mentioned the cores for TR6 calipers are getting tougher to find. But they may have some in stock.
After rebuilding my front end, I learned that the modification to fit the Toyotas would have taken minutes. If I knew that going in, I would have switched...the price of inexperience. Even the rebuild was more expensive (I think---its been a year) than new Toyota calipers.
Anyway, between Apple and Toyota, you may be able to get the parts.
|I have done the Toyota conversion and it is fairly straight forward, but there are a few things that keep it from being a direct bolt on. The calipers to use the four piston units from one of the earlier solid axle 4 wheel drive pick up trucks. You will have to trim the dust shield to clear the calipers and you will have to fabricate the solid brake line from the caliper to the flexible line. For the mounting bolts, you either need to use the later TR6 caliper bolts (those used with the M16 calipers) or you will need to bush the bolt hole in the caliper, then ream the bushing bore to fit the earlier TR6 mounting bolts. |
I tried to go the later bolt route, but two years later they are still on backorder (assuming that both Moss and Roadster haven't forgotten about my backorder). After waiting a couple of months, I wound up making up some bushings.
This thread was discussed between 20/05/2003 and 22/05/2003
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