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Triumph TR6 - Fuel Line Replacement


Has anyone replaced the stock fuel line from the fuel pump to the carbs with braided line? Did you reroute the line? What line and fitting sizes would be required?

Mike Calhoun

I have used braided lines and AN fittings, but it is not to a stock set up. I used -6 (3/8") stuff, but for the most part kept the braided lines to a minimum. There is a short braided section from a bulkhead fitting to my fuel pump, from the fule filter to another bulkhead fitting, from one bulkhead fitting to another and then to the solid line running from the rear to the front. The longest section of braided line is in the engine compartment, running from the end of the solid line, behind the head and to the rear carb, with short connector bits running to tee fittng at the middle and elbow at the front carb along with short bits from the tee/elbow fittings to the carbs themselves.

For the stock carb set up, it would actually be a bit trickier but could be done. I seem to recall that the lines are 5/16", which would be a -5 size in the AN world and -5 is sort of an oddball size, there is not much stuff out there for low pressure systems. You would need to decide whether you wanted to step up or down from -5 and modify one of the AN919 2 X male adapter fittings at the fuel pump accordingly. Then you would have to figure out how you wanted to split things at the carbs and come up with the required fittings, flares and such. All in all, a lot of effort and expense (go price the fittings and the lines) for no real benefit on a stock carb set up, just something to be different. It really boils down to whether or not you want to go to the expense and effort. For my own purposes, I would mostly stick with the factory stuff on a stock set up, but would use high quality clamps.


Yikes! I guess that settles it for me...I'll stay stock! My plumbing skills are sadly lacking! Thought was to reroute the gas line to the rear of the motor to get it away from the heat that it must see going around the front of the head. And while rerouting I would change over to braided line...guess I could do the same with stock fuel line if I decided to pursue. Thanks for giving me enough details to make me realize the pain this would be with braided line!

Mike Calhoun


Like Steve I re-ran braided lines from my fuel line to the pump and then to my pressure regulator and then to the all started when i went to change the fuel filter and it was in sounch an awkward spot that i went to AN 6 line..into an Edlebock filter and then to the pump..adapted to 6an using some local plumbing supplies. Then another adaptor and out to the pressure regulator and to the carbs. Its nice and solid, easy to adjust positions and not subject to heat as the line routes around the front of the engine...i kept the original routing and then banded the lines using 00 type clamps..nice and neat. I did see a photo of another 6 with the fuel line routed behind the engine..very nice set up..easy to adjust since the fuel pump in/out lines can be positioned to any clock setting.

Was the work and cost worth it...well, I say yes, its nice/neat and easy to get to the filter now...but it was not a 1 hour job!..great winter project :-0


1976 6
Bob Craske

While we are on the subject of fuel line replacement, I am trying to plumb a set of hs6 SU carbs from a Volvo for my 6. The carbs were originaly mounted with the float chambers mounted "inboard". I swapped the position of the carbs so that the float chambers are on the "outside" of the carbs. It looks like the carb to carb hose will have to run above and behind the carb body. If I use the original float chamber lids, the orientation of the fittings seem to make couple of almost 180 deg. turns necessary. It looks like MGBs and some Healeys use a similar approach. Any other alternatives? I have spent a few hours trying to picture a better approach, but only ended up with a headache.
Berry Price
BTP Price

Berry, try APT for the SU parts. They have a good listing of SU parts including the different angled float bowl adaptors, LH, RH, bowl lids, etc. I have not dealt with them on SU stuff before, only Weber, but given the business base, I can't help but feel that their SU stocking is better than the Weber stuff. If you tell them what you have and what you are trying to do they should be able to fix you up with the right stuff. I have always been very pleased when dealing with APT and recommend them highly when you are looking for those "go-fast" and somewhat different sort of parts application.

Thanks for the info Steve. I think $48 for the float lids is a bit much. I will search an upcoming swap meet or maybe go the braided hose route.
BTP Price

This thread was discussed between 21/05/2006 and 25/05/2006

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