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Triumph TR6 - Fuel tank sealing

Has anyone had any direct experience in cleaning and sealing your gas tanks. I'm thinking about purchasing a kit by POR 15 or KBS that cleans, etches, and seals the tank. If applied correctly, should I be concerned about the sealer coming off and really causing a problem down the road. I wasn't sure if all I need to do is clean it with a muriatic solution and just keep the tank full to prevent rust from returning.

I'm afraid that given the current amount of rust deposits in the filter, pump, and carb bowls, I think I could be changing filters on a frequent basis. Although, fuel line filters are cheap. Another problem is that after cranking, the filter is sometimes empty, so I'm thinking the fuel lines may be clogged. Last time I tried, I disconnected the line before the carbs and I was able to see gas being pumped into a clear bottle. I do plan on rebuilding the fuel pump this spring.

I'd be interested in getting the list's opinions.

Thanks,
Mark

Mark Wright

Hi mark
If your filter is empty after cranking I'd suspect your pump is shot and needs replacing...
as for por15 i have yet to try it.
Charlie
Charlie B.

Mark,
I used POR's or Eastwood's kit. Don't remember which now. I frequently buy stuff from both of them. The process is simple, but can get messy. Have an area where you can dispose of the wash, etch and rinse residue. Protect yourself with proper clothing, gloves and respirator. You can purchase acetone and muriatic acid locally so all you really need is the sealer. You MUST clean/remove the petrol varnish and of course all the rust etc. before you can seal the tank. My problem, if there were any, was in insuring that I had adequately cleaned the inside of the tank. I had no pin holes or seam leaks, but since I had it out, wanted to improve what I could. I rinsed it thoroughly several times to make sure all the residue and the cleaner were removed. It's vital to get the inside of the tank COMPLETELY dry after cleaning and rinsing. I used compressed air and a hair blower to aid the process, but leaving if for several days to a week in a low humidity environment may be a better solution, but then you need to be concerned about flash rust. The last advice is to make sure you get good coverage of the sealer on every surface. To do so you must rotate the tank frequently as the sealer sets up and pour the residue off early to insure a uniform coating. I have not used my tank since I did this and have some concern that the outflow may be compromised by being plugged with sealer. If so, I'm sure that I can drill it out sufficiently. I'll certainly test it before reinstalling. I also stripped the outside to bare metal, prepped and painted with POR-15, after I had previously bead blasted, primed and painted with zinc based paint. I figured the POR to be better protection. Remember that there are baffles in the tank for very good reasons. You'll want to make sure the cleaner gets to all parts of the tank, around the baffles as well as the sealer when you apply that. Good luck.
db
Doug Baker

Hi Mark,
I was assuming your filter is after the pump but in re-thinking it is probably before the pump and yes that would indicate a clogged fuel line
Charlie
Charlie B.

About to pull the tank to do the same.
But, I'm smart enought to let a pro do it.
My plans:
1. pull tank
2.take to a rad shop have them clean it and add a return line for future FI upgrade.
3. get tank back and take to powder coaters for outside.
4. Take back to rad shop to have them finish the inside.

A lot of back and forth but the only way I know to do it.
DON KELLY

Doug,
I think some of the kits claim that they put a temporary coat of film on the inside to prevent rust before it's sealed. Otherwise, I don't know how you can avoid the flash rust while you're waiting for it to dry.

Is there good way to clean the fuel lines, i.e. compressed air or some other means, or should I simply buy new lines.

Thanks for the suggestions thus far.
Mark Wright

Mark,
The etching agent will leave a coating of phosphoric acid that'll prevent flash rust for a lengthy time period, certainly long enough to dry out well. As far as the lines, you might try the same cleaning compound to dissolve the varnish, but just blowing them out if trash is present should be sufficient. I've purchased just about every part for my restoration project new, including new stainless steel brake lines, but I do not intend to replace the fuel lines except in the engine compartment and the rubber connections. For example, there's a spider's web of nylon tubes/hoses around the gas tank. I have not purchased new nylon hoses expecting what I have although 37 years young to suffice.
In the engine area, I've bead blasted and painted or powder coated all the lines and yes, blew them all out throughly with compressed air. I'm replacing all the rubber.
db
Doug Baker

Doug
As you know, we both have that spaghetti junction on our fuel tanks. I would use the original piping as it never sees UV rays and you will never see it again. Mine is still in good shape.

I took my tank to a professional tank repair place...if I recall it was around $150.00.

Rick
Rick Crawford

Thanks gentlemen,

I assume I'll need some warmer weather to apply the kit, so this will have to be done later this Spring.
As far as the lines go, I'll use low pressure compressed air and start before the fuel pump and blow it back towards the tank. I've read where you should take off the gas cap and cover it with a cloth so the tank is not pressurized.
Regarding the fuel pump rebuild any suggestions, are some kits better than others?

Mark
Mark Wright

This thread was discussed between 25/01/2009 and 27/01/2009

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