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Triumph TR6 - Gaskets
|Anyone care to comment on which engine gaskets require/recommended sealants for gaskets and which ones and which do not??? Thanks.|
Do not put any sealant or stuff on the head gasket or exhaust/intake gasket.
The rest is at your discretion. I used silicon around the oil pan gasket. For the others I used just a tacky spray to help keep the gasket in place while I lined up the parts.
I didn't use anything on the little gaskets that go with the front aluminum piece (covers the front crankshaft main bearing cap.)
|Thanks Mike. I finally had a conversation with Dave at TRF and have a better understanding of which need sealant and which go on dry. Think I'll be OK, if I can not straighten out all my fasteners!! The adventure continues.|
|Pretty much similar to Mike, if it's a machined to machined faying surface something tacky like Permatex aviation gasket sealer is what I use. Where one or more mating surface is formed, such as the oil pan, I use a hylomar sealant such as Honda Bond or Yama Bond. Can't say if it's the same over in Huntsville, but getting Honda Bond and the car dealer is highway robbery, but the bike shops are better on price. We have a local Honda/Suzuki/Yamaha dealer that watches the prices (shooting for the lower one) and keeps either the Honda Bond or the Yama Bond on hand based on that. Regardles of what they have, it's always much less there than at the Honda car dealers.|
On the head gasket, don't use a gasket sealer, but do hit it with light coat of silver paint on both sides prior to fitting. Valve cover gasket is bonded to the cover with no sealant used on head side.
|On the Wedge when I rebuilt the top end last winter I used Hyper Blue|
Thanks. I don't have silver so hope that Copper will do for the head gasket. Dave recommeded Permatix #1 which turns out to be black RTV w/silicone.
Don I used hylomar blue on the little gaskets on the crank block piece with the wooden pieces.
I have Permatex #1 and can smear a coat on the front engine plate gasket and the oil pan gasket. Head gasket with a wee bit of copper spray on both sides just to affix to dimensionally and Steve as you say, bond the valve cover to the cover and let the head dry. Others such as fuel pump, and distributor I've figured to put on dry and see how that works. If I get an oil leak or blow by or whatever, I'll adjust.
Did you water pump gray permatex for that application.
Manifolds, intake and exhaust and down pipe all go on dry as do the carburettors, but the brake master cylinder liikely needs a liberal dose of the permatex #1 as it goes through the firewall.
Thanks to all.
|Gasket goo opinions will vary like ...well, you know. I prefer Copper Seal on head gaskets which uses very small copper particles to fill in any imperfections. Most old school brit mechs use grease on their gaskets to keep them in place but then again just the plain old gasket will almost alway do the trick without all the sticky stuff. When using anything I'm a light coat "copper seal" on the head and a light coat of "Indian head shellac" on anything else I'm worried about. Remember when cleaning all the goop from the outside that oozes out there is just as much oozing on the inside...sorry, not a fan of the gasket goo. But then again thats just my opinion! ; )|
Thanks for benefit of your experience. I've hand lapped the mating surfaces of each part with 800 grit paper to remove what surface imperfections I can. With the front engine plate, I powder coated that and with the 800 paper, it's very smooth. The mating machined metal block has minor void, but the gasket will likely fill those nicely, so I guess I'm going dry with that one and use the copper spray on the head gasket. I'll likely use a bit of goop on the timing case cover, but very very little, just a smear. Thanks again.
|When smoothing any flat mating surface try useing a piece of plate glass to lay the paper on then run the part over it to ensure a smooth FLAT mating surface. Thats the trick to get primary cover gaskets to seal on any British motorbike|
|JT. Thanks. I use a square of about 3" of lexan as a "sandling" block to insure smoothness AND flatness. Works well. I begin with about 320 grit if there appears to be a need, go to 400 and finish with 800 or 1000 grit. Really removes all offending protuberances and helps to insure a tight fit all around.|
|They do sell a 2000 grit (I think a brown paper bag or public restroom TP is the same!)|
This thread was discussed between 12/03/2010 and 16/03/2010
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