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Triumph TR6 - Gearbox Overhaul
|I've been cleaning up and mildly refurbishing my spare, low-mileage gearbox for use this summer if I ever get it all done. I cleaned up the box, am replacing the front and rear oil seals and installing the standard gasket kit plus the release bearing and carrier. There is no crap in the gear oil and no slop in the front input shaft bearing or the rear mainshaft bearing. I pulled the cover and all the gears look good, with no chips or cracks or uneven wear that I can see. The selector forks are in very good shape and the brass synchro rings look good. I intend to drill the fork and shaft for an extra bolt for safety and order the bushing for the clutch shaft as there is play in the old one. Does anybody have anything to add to my checklist? Also one question. I used a seal puller to remove the rear oil seal. I don't know if I or the DPO gouged the inside of the tailshaft where the seal sits. The gouges (4) all had raised burrs. Considering all the hammer marks on the tailshaft and the broken fork bolt I suspect the DPO is the culprit as I was reasonably careful. I used a fine sanding drum on a Dremel tool and honed the burrs til I could no longer feel them. While there is no raised burr, there are small recessed gouges. Should these be okay or should I put sealant in there when I reinstall that oil seal? Thanks.|
1976 TR6 on Jack Stands
|Are you replacing the clutch and disc? Have the flywheel resurfaced and replace the two pins on the clutch fork. Check the slave cylinder rod for any |
play at the cleves pin (order new rod and pin). You might want to also check the cleves pin under the dash. The bushings for the clutch shaft only had one per side, you should replace them with two per side, gives the shaft better support. And don't forget a new pilot bush (soak it in oil for 24 hrs.). Oh and new u-joints for the drive shaft.
And yes on the sealant for the rear seal.
|Bob, why are you doing this during driving time?|
|Driving season Don? Oh yeah - wrong time to be at this but it was not the plan. Short version of a long story; pulled the trailing arms to do the bushings and the diff to do the seals. Elective surgery happened 6 weeks early and meant I could not get it back together. Now, I can't lift anything so I'm detailing all the parts I removed. Hope to get her back on the road mid-August with everything done. Actually, while I lose most of the season, I get to do the stuff I would have put off so my rolling restoration will be much more complete and carefully done and detailed. One pic attached. The rebuilt ZS carbs are shown with their shiny tops. I am still polishing those, experimenting with polishing compounds and wheels. Another ZS is peeking out on the right and another spare is hiding there too. Nice to have one or two extra everything.|
Thanks Joe. Yes, I am replacing the clutch, pressure plate, release and carrier bearings, clutch fork pins, taper pin, pilot bush and clutch shaft bushes. I made an appt to have the flywheel resurfaced. I added a new .75 bore clutch master and new slave cylinder last year and I have two new HD u-joints in the box. There is more - I have been busy spending the kids' inheritance
|Hey Don, all is not doom and gloom here without a TR to drive. We have a semi-monthly Sunday run thing here called Sports Car Tours where all sports cars are welcome and we do a run with lunch. Today we had a few LBC's but a gaggle of Z3's and 4's and Miatas. Buddy Steve brought his TR6 but he loaned me one of his Brit toys to play with. Great drive - great day - fun car!|
'80 Mini "loaner" RHD
|Hey, while you have that out like that throw some disks on it|
|Driving time here in Florida IS the winter! I do all my heavy maintenance in the summer on the TR6 and drive the XJS (A/C) then do the heavy stuff on the XJS in the winter and drive the TR6 with the top down.|
|Easy for you to say Don. The kids' inheritance is dwindling fast. Anyway, I've got to get it moving again before I think about getting it stopped.|
JT - usually I drive my snow blower all winter then try to heat the garage and work on the 6. Don't have the Jag problem.
BTW, Obsolete Auto in Point Edward, Ontario has Lucas TR6 headlight switches for $23.95. Moss sells a Lucas replacement for $22.95. Could be a good deal - I'm not up on switch quality.
|Jag = problem|
You got that right....they build a pretty car, just not a maintenance free one!
This thread was discussed between 03/07/2011 and 05/07/2011
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