Welcome to our resource for MG Car Information.



TR parts and Triumph parts, TR bits, Triumph Car Spares and accessories are available for TR2, TR3, TR3A, TR4, TR4A, TR5, TR6, TR7, TR8, Spitfire and Stag and other TR models are available from British car spares and parts company LBCarCo.

Triumph TR6 - Have a look at CF30283U Triumph or Disaster

Well I am about a week late in getting this home page out.
I have to remember that this is a 5 year (4 to go, minus the winters) project. My hope is that if you have a simular project or have gone through this process that experiences can be shared.

So please check this out and hpefully enjoy. By the way I am aiming for a driver and not a concourse car.

lw gilholme

Les - It looks like you have some work ahead of you. I am doing a TR3A and the frame was as weak at the one on your TR6. I bought a perfectly solid frame from a friend in Iowa who was coming to Vermont so I went down to pick it up. It only cost me $200.00 US$ plus one day, the gas and the duty.

I suggest you ask here on this BBS about new TR6 frames or a solid used frame because the car will never be strong unless you start with a solid frame.

Don Elliott
Don Elliott


First, I have to agree with Don Elliott about the frame. It appears that some repairs have been attempted in the past with limited success. I stumbled across a web site the other day that carried repair sections for the TR6 frame. They seemed to have everything to build an entire frame. The bad news is that I cannot find the url. If I get anal enough tonight I will find it for you. There are also frames that show up on ebay from time to time that may warrant consideration.

Second, body pieces are readily available from British Motor Heritage. They do not list a Canadian supplier on their distributors list but there are four listed in the US - I have no idea what duty if any there would be. Did we not all agree to NAFTA to elimnate duties????

Third, and this not too early to ask, what color are you going to paint it? The original blue looks pretty nice.

Fourth, am I correct in assuming this car was originally delivered to Canada? Reason I ask is that the engine does not appear to ever have been saddled with all the US emmissions 'stuff'.

You have your work cut out for you! Keep us informed!



There is no duty when you import car parts into Canada from the US or UK if they are for a car which is 25 years old or more. But you must ask the supplier to print this clearly on the package and on the invoices. I make it easy for them by sending them the exact wording. For parts you order from a US TR parts supplier have them sent by US Parcel Post. At the door, if the value of the parts comes to $100.00CDN or more, all you have to pay is the GST/QST. If you order from Roadster Factory, they only ship via UPS (United Parcel Service). Then you have to pay $35.00 for brokerage fees at UPS in Erie, Ontario and they add on the duty. Then UPS will tell you to go get the Canadian Customs forms and fill them in to hopefully get your duty refund. When you order parts from a Canadian supplier here in Canada, he has probably ordered stuff for TR7s and TR8s on the same order and so he pays duty on the complete order. Whenever I knew I was going to the USA, I'd order the parts and have them sent to the hotel where I knew I'd be staying. Then I'd bring them back into Canada duty free and GST/QST tax free.

Don Elliott, 1958 TR3A
Don Elliott

Those pics m ake me feel a lot better about the surface rust on my floorboards!

I admire your perseverence!

JL Bryan

I was under my car the other night tightening up the exhaust system and was thinking of your frame as I looked at mine. You should adjust your frame anit rust metering devices. Mine has a nice coat of anti rust from the engine to the tail pipe that precludes any chance of water contacting the surface of the frame and under side of the body. The only way a proporly functioning TR6 can rust it's floor board is from it's inside out. Usually from leaky windshields but sometimes from the top beeing left open or holed. Just be sure to top up the normal resevoir convienently located on the top of the engine. A second resevoir dispensing a more dense anti rust compound can be topped off by removing a plug on the side of the transmission.


The damage to your frame is very similar to what I had when I started my 69 TR6 rebuild but I do have to say that yours is in better shape than what I had. The members that hold the rear wheels shot (worse than what yours appear to be), the holes in the center , the broken bolt that holds the differential. My angled braces (at the front) were junk. One of the brackets that hold the right side front lower wish bone gone. I spent several days welding new pieces in. I used 3 by 3 by 1/8 inch square tubing to replace the members that hold the rear wheels and 1 1/4 by 1 1/4 by 1/8th inch square tube for the angled braces. There ain't no way they are going to fail again.

Have fun and enjoy. I can say that after 3 years and 1119 hours, I am enjoying the fruits of my labour now. If I ever figure out how to upload my pictures to a web site I will share them. Maybe something I will figure out when I put the car away for the season.
Michael S. Petryschuk


Brings back a lot of memories... Good luck, my friend.

Jim Vandenberg

Les you can do this.
You have already welded up some nice body/tub reinforcements the rest is just labour. Get the body and
frame dipped if you can(save you alot of time sand blasting) and weld up patches to strengthen. This car is salvagable. You only have about 2 days welding to get the frame done. The body will take alittle more work but is do able.
Christopher T.

Thank you to everyone for the words of encouragement and also to those who have visited the home page (over 1600 hits in less than 2 weeks). The home page words will be updated within the next few days.

Chris T, when you say get the frame/tub dipped before sandblasting, what process are you reffering to? I thought that I would have the frame sandblasted (gently) before I had it repaired (will be using 16 gauge metal).

lw gilholme

I've been following this thread with great interest. Does anyone out there know the approximate weights for the various TR6 components,i.e engine/clutch/trans, engine alone, frame with all items attached, bare frame, body tub?
As far as memories are concrned I vaguely recall it took 4 of us to haul the engine,sans trans and cylinder head, out my TR4 using a 4 x 4 timber, many wrappings of nylon rope, several shots of CC and the better part of a 2-4! (it was outdoors in January).

Chris is referring to having the frame dipped in an acid bath. There is a company in Brampton On that can dip the whole frame and tub. It removes the rust inside and out and then you can weld and paint as need be. The process involves an acid wash and then a alkaline wash to neutralize the acid. Really cleans up nicely. I did my doors, hood and trunklid.


Don't know if I can help on the weights too much. The frame on it's own is in the 100-150 lb range. 40- 60 lb for each wheeland suspension hardware(without tire). Differential about 40 lb. engine about 300 lb. Tranny 75 lb. Tub 400 lb. Hood- 50 lb. Trunklid 40 lb.

These are estimates based on my experience as I manhandled them about while I did my frame up restoration.
Michael S. Petryschuk

This thread was discussed between 12/09/2005 and 24/09/2005

Triumph TR6 index