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Triumph TR6 - Hitting the Raod soon?
well, the wiring posting worked great and I am proud to say that task is now finished.
I am moving ahead of schedule on this restoration and thought now would be a good time to gather the following information
your suggestions/concensus for a 1976 TR6
sparkplugs (pertonix ignition added already)
rad fluid (coolant)
It's great that you are ahead of schedule, that must be a first. Here are some generally accepted recommendations:
Engine oil- Good quality 20/50 in the summer, 10/30 in the winter.
Spark plugs- any brand will be fine, I have used Champion and NGK, both work well. I see no need for platinum or other expensive plugs. Some guys widen the gap a bit with the Pertronics.
Trans oil- GL-4 rated gear oil is recommended over the later rating, GL-5. They say the 5 has something that attacks brass (synchros). I personally think this is the excuse the aftermarket supplier or manufacturer uses to explain early failure of an inferior product. Some people swear by RedLine gear oil, some even use motor oil.
Coolant- Just use 50/50 antifreeze and water, maybe some better brands have better anti-rust additives. Maybe you like the more environmentally friendly type, I haven't heard that it would be a problem.
Brake fluid- Silicone if you value your paint under the master cylinders. Girling LMA (possibly other DOT 4 fluids too, but not DOT 3!) if you want to stay traditional.
|Bob - you want a concensus? The goose is Canadian...|
As for the car stuff, my philosophy is to use the best because I don't want another rebuild. So...
Engine oil - Redline (10W-40 or 15W-50)
Plugs - Bosch Platinum. (mine gapped at 0.043")
Transmission oil - Redline MT-90
Coolant - Any red 100k mile antifreeze and distilled/deionized water, not tap water.
Brake Fluid - I use silicone, but stick with LMA unless you plan on eventually cleaning out all the crud in the wheel cylinders & calipers - you will in a few years.
|Hey Brent, at one time I was researching the "red/orange" extended-life coolants for possible use in my six. I was stopped in my tracks by information that it was designed primarily for aluminum systems. Use in our brassy radiators would accelerate corrosion. Have things changed with this stuff?|
|I hadn't heard that, Rick. I have heard that extended life and regular antifreeze shouldn't be mixed because that will degrade the additives. These links say copper/brass is no problemo.|
|Thanks for setting me straight Brent.|
Thanks for the information. I agree with Brent and want only the best for my LBC, especially after such a loving and extensive restoration!.
I also would like to know what battery the concensus points to, I have heard anywhere from a generic to exotic battery, but would prefer practical advice over pie in the sky approach of non LBC owners.
|Were they still using "tar-top" batteries in 1976? Just a consideration if you're going the total original look. The Optimas are tempting, but not needed IMHO. Seeing Die Hard under the hood is a confidence builder. You can get Lucas stickers if you want to..|
A word of caution to you. DO NOT put DOT 5 (silicone) brake or clutch fluid in if you are currently DOT 4. The ONLY time you can switch to DOT 5 is after you have FULLY rebuilt all components related to brake or clutch systems.
DOT 5 and 4 are NOT compatable. A mixture of both will attack the rubber components.
If you have done a full rebuild of both systems then IMHO DOT 5 is better. Much more expensive, but then silicone does not absorb moisture and as you know, our little treasures sit for many months of the year.
For DOT 4 LMA (low moisture absorbtion) is best.Castrol has a good product called LMX if my memory serves me well.
|Thanks all, |
still ahead of schedule and will be ready for the British Car DSay in September...see you there?
This thread was discussed between 07/06/2004 and 12/06/2004
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