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Triumph TR6 - hrust washers & clutch
|Can a worn out set of thrust washers cause erratic clutch operation. Every once in a while my 6 will sometimes shake and shudder from a stop. I checked the end play of the crank and it seems to be roughly a 1/16th of an inch or maybe a little more. Wht do you all think.|
|I think your clutch disc is glazed, probably with a little seepage from the rear seal. Maybe put a piece of carpet or something to pad a stationary wall, or maybe even just set the parking brake. Then slip the clutch a few times, heating the disc up and burning off the bad stuff. Maybe it will improve. If not, it's probably time for a new disc and seal.|
|I think you have to much end float...a 1'16th seems like a lot... WITH THE ENGINE OFF..use a bit of wood and carefully make sure the crank is pushed back then watch it as a helper pushes in the clutch..there should be barely any play as it moves forward..the more play the thicker thrust washer is needed|
I think Charlie is being kind to you. It needs to be said a little louder. HECK...if Bill Brayford was answering this post, he would be yelling.
I quote an expert "difference will determine whether you have a problem or not. If the measurement is even close to .013", that would indicate your engine is in need of service. If the measurement is in the neighborhood of .100" or more, then you have a real serious problem!! That would indicate that you have lost your washer entirely." ( From Scott Helms).
Well Justin 1/16" in decimal is .0625"
I kinda remember Bill saying something about a clutch problem might indicate bad or non existent thrust washers.
It would be a good idea Justin to determine your thrust washer(S) situation and accurately measure your end float REAL SOON like before your next drive.
Thrust washers can be changed by just removing the oil pan.
|Thanks guys, will be pulling the oil pan this weekend!|
Good idea. Let the board know what you find. Could be helpfull info to someone else.
There is plenty of info on how to easily remove thrust washers and how to measure end float. If you need some help, ask away.
Oh ya, if you determine you need thrust washers, I/we can direct you to a very good source of custom made special alloy thrust washers.
|Rick, my notes that I took during my engine tear down indicate that I had .007 float. I think we said that new thrust washers were not necessary. The ones we removed looked fairly new. Comments...|
|You may want to double-check the proper installation of your new thrust washers as there are manuals that have pictures that can mislead someone doing the job the first time.|
I'm sure I did it right because that was three years and 5,000 mile ago with little measurable change in my float.
A quote from CDII
"Using a dial gauge on a magnetic base, mount the gauge to the crankcase and set the gauge stylus against the crankshaft webbing. Lever the crankshaft rearward (use a small crowbar) and zero the dial gauge. Lever the crankshaft forward (either depress the clutch or use a crowbar) and measure the end-float reading. The end-float should be 0.006-0.008". Do this a few times and average the measurements. If you have more than this, use oversize thrust washers. To obtain the required clearance, I used a combination of standard and 0.005" oversize washers."
Also on the CD is another document that says "The allowable axial play for the crankshaft is .007-.013....". I would stick with the 6 to 8 THOU end float.
So if you measured .007" you are OK...you are at the high end. If I recall correctly I got (from Scott) 2 washers and they gave me an end float of .005". I would agree you are OK for a few more miles. They must have been done before you bought the car. Replacing the thrust washers in not that bad when engine is in the car. It is easier with the engine upside down on an engine stand:)
the way to remember how they go back in: " There sometimes seems to be some confusion on which way to refit the washers. I found the easiest axiom to remember is that the grooved surface of the thrust washers must face away from each other, i.e., towards the crank surface. Apply assembly lube and refit the new thrust washers. "
|Before I rebuilt my engine my end play was .013". It is now .005. The old thrust washers that gave me the .013 play didn't look too bad. They were worn but the groves were still present. They weren't even close to falling out. I would agree with you Rick that at .013 you should begin to plan to replace but you don't have to stop driving immediately...in my opinion..that is.|
|HP Henry Patterson|
This thread was discussed between 31/05/2006 and 03/06/2006
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