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Triumph TR6 - Hubs--Should I?

My hubs are ok, but was wondering whether I need to repack the bearings on a set schedule. I don't know when the hubs were last serviced, and it is such an ordeal to R&R them. If neglected, do the hubs give you ample warning that things are heading south? Thanks for your help. Rick O.
Rick Orthen

Hi Rick
Take note of one statement u made..." I don't know when the hubs where last serviced". Do u really want to wait till things go south? Besides, u have about another month before u can really get to enjoy her.
Rick C
P.S. anti-seize on those damn little brake drum screws.
Rick Crawford

Rick C.

I removed the hubs and had them professionally rebuilt, along with replacing the diff oil seals and U-joints. Not a low-cost maintenance activity by any means, but the road trip confidence is much improved. FYI: if you have any play in a loaded hub (wheel on ground), the hub is likely needing attention. That's what gave me concern. Also, if the unloaded hub spins freely, it's not right either. Mine spun like a top which I intuitively thought was a great thing, but it turns out it isn't.

Rick O.
Rick Orthen

Ha Rick
Well now u can drive down the road and not have to worry about your back side:) I noticed yesterday (first time out this year after a spring bath and adjustments as said on the other thread)that when I am stationary and let clutch out and in then out and in again (car does not really move forward) that I get a thumping noise from back end..I think that is where noise comes from. I am sure I do not want to hear comments on this. I wish I knew as much as I do now when doing the restore...that 20/20 thing!! I sure would have looked at a lot more things more closely.
Rick C
Rick Crawford

Rick's rear end thumping as he lets the clutch out sounds familiar. Take a look at the diff mountings. If you're lucky it will be a worn rubber buffer. But the mounting pins are well known for pulling out of the chassis bridges. And the pressed steel mounting plate bolted to the nose of the diff can also fracture. All lead to the diff moving on its mountings and giving the dull thunk as the drive chain comes under load. I've had all three failures over the years.
Peter Cobbold

Peter
thanks for the reply. The mounts are OK with new polly dif mounting pieces. Should have mentioned this..only really notice it when doing the clutch in / out thing in reverse...now I really do not want a reply:)
Rick C
Rick Crawford

Rick C. You know you didn't want to read this, but go for it anyway! When I pulled my diff, the the front upper right rubber mount had mushroomed badly, accelerated by a bunch of gearoil that had gotten up there. Peter C. is absolutely correct as this mount was the source of my thumping. Fortunately, I inspected the pin attachments with one of those round mirrors on a stick and could see no cracking. I installed the diff with OEM rubber mounts all around on the advice of my LBC mechanic. Seems it is more important to have the shock absorbing value of rubber vs the opposite with poly in this application. Now I see why. Now the rear end is tight as it should be.

Rick O.
Rick Orthen

Forgot to ask this earlier: I installed new half-shafts that are the TR250/early TR6 type with a Zerk fitting and an integral screw cap/rubber seal at the opening where the two halves go together. Bought these from the TR Shop in London. On the later shafts, this transition was covered by a rubber boot. The rubber boot does not fit over the increased diameter of my new shafts however. I don't think there ever was one intended for this application, but want to know for sure. Anybody know if a boot is required for the early shafts and, if so, where to get one. Thanks.

Rick O.
Rick Orthen

Rick- My 71 has said boots.
Don K.
DON KELLY

Thanks Don. Do your half shafts have a Zerk fitting on diff side under the rubber shield as I described in my last post? Thanks.

Rick O.
Rick Orthen

Rick O.
Don't remember any fittings.Does the fitting grease the splines?
Don K.
DON KELLY

Yes Don, the Zerk fitting is to pump grease to the splines. A much better design IMHO over the later shafts, especially the screw cap which houses a shaft seal. I believe Triumph saved $$ by going to the simpler half-shaft design on later (post-70?) TRs. Guess I'll have to get a TR-250 catalog to see the details. BTW--I was very pleased with the service provided by the TR Shop in London (http://www.trshop.co.uk); would buy from them again.

Rick O.
Rick Orthen

Rick- I definitly don't have those zerks(but like the idea). I checked the online Moss and Rimmer bros. catalogues but didn't see anything as such. I even checked TR4 IRS to see if possible explaination, but didn't see anything either.
Don K
DON KELLY

Don K. Thanks for doing some "research" for me. I've only seen these type of shafts for sale at the TR Shop in London, and they frequently auction the shafts on ebaY. I'll run without the boots, which shouldn't be a problem since the shafts have an integral sealing arrangement to keep dirt out of the splined section.

Rick O.
Rick Orthen

Rick- The splines need to be protected I would think. As the axles bound with the tires they pull and retract. The splines might come exposed and and the possibility of contaminates getting into them .Only a theory by me. Any thoughts?
Don K.
DON KELLY

Don K--With the swing arm at its lowest point (wheel hanging in the air), the splines are not exposed. The female shaft has a rubber seal with a screw cap to keep the seal in place in place and prevents dirt entry. This setup affords the same protection as the later axles with the boots, except for a short non-splined section of the male shaft that is uncovered. And you don't have to dissassemlble the shafts to grease them.

Rick O.
Rick Orthen

This thread was discussed between 10/03/2002 and 19/04/2002

Triumph TR6 index

This thread is from the archive. The Live Triumph TR6 BBS is active now.