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Triumph TR6 - Ignition warning light
|Greetings to all,|
I had been having a problem with my Ign. light it would come on after having been driven for about 10 miles, but only at lower revs it would dissapear at higher revs(2500). This led me to beleive I had a bad alternator (belts tight etc.) So I purchased a Bosch alternator, rebuilt (60amp) it is a 3 plug model, my 6 is a 1972 with a 3 plug adaptor that mates up with the bosch no problem. While I swapped out the alt. I also changed out the old tired fuse box and replaced the voltage regulator. After getting this all done I fired it up and now the ign. light is on all the time which according to the Master's bible means bad battery. My battery tests out at 12.69 volts which is exactly where it should be again according to Dan's book. How do I go about testing the Alternators output/does it read in volts or only ohms/amps? Where should my tester be connected?
Some other info my fuse panel is holding 3-7.5amp fuses in all positions except the green (20amp) this is the temp, fuel guage heater fan etc. position.
My voltage reg was a 5 plug model and is now a 4 plug I only have 4 plugs so it fits fine.
Also all lights/accessories are working properly no problems at all there.
I am a little confused as to where to start to try to find the problem, any help is greatly appreciated. The bosch alternator was a very easy install did not need more fan belt just a different lock down bolt.
It is late here so I will post any replies 1st thing in the AM.
|I miss spoke myself it was a relay that I had replaced that sits closer to the cockpit on my '72 not a voltage reg. One other thing that I failed to make mention of is that I have auxilary driving lights added to my car. I had them wired off of the positive pole on the battery, but I switched them to a vacant male plug at the fuse panel that was also switchable ie:shuts lights off with ignition switch. Could this be my problem? |
|Check the voltage at the battery with the enigne running at a high idle - over 1500rpm. If the alternator is working as it should, you should get 14.6 volts.|
Quick and dirty alternator check:
Pull up close to a wall at night with your headlights on, rev the engine up and then kill it. If the alternator is working as it should, you will see a noticable dimming of your headlights. The headlight output with the 14.6 volts from the alternator is noticably brighter than from the 12.6 battery voltage. If the lights don't dim, then you were running off the battery and not the alternator.
|Dan, Am I correct in the manner in which I have wired my driving lights? I am not sure if I correctly followed your books approach of using a fused power source for them. I used a spare male connector at the green fuse position at my fuse panel. They do have an in-line fuse from power to light. I will check my battery again next opportunity as you suggested. I am starting to get the hang of the material in your book, well worth the charge.|
Thanks for your reply,
Almost all larger parts stores now have analysers for charge load battery whatever.
Its a free service. Just ask and they will roll out the cart.
If your car is off the road you can remove alternator and battery and take in for testing. The new Bear load testing for batterys finds dead/crossed etc cells in about a half hour test. For that one they may charge a small fee 5/10 if the battery prints out bad and you don't buy a new one from them. By the way the testers computer prints out the findings not the operator and its pretty hard to fool. Looks like a cash tape thermal.
It would seem as though the ghost of Lucas has moved on. Battery under charge reads 14.3 with the amp guage 1/2 way into the charge side. Also the ign light now seems to be working properly. Stay tuned.
This thread was discussed between 25/02/2004 and 26/02/2004
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