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Triumph TR6 - Incessent Door Rattles
|Over minor road irregularities my doors and windows rattle and creak so badly that it reminds me of a cheap GM F Body and drives me insane.|
I have new door hinges and a new window regulator on the drivers side and it sounds like it is full of birds.
Despite the fact that the TR6 frame is so flexible that a noise free car is probably impossible, does anyone have any "tips" to create a "solid" feeling sports car.
Thanks in advance
1973 5 speed.
|Chunks of pink packing styrofoam. Denser than white stuff/ stronger/ flexable/ doesn't seem to rot and free. If you look hard enough. Computer industry uses a lot.|
Cuts easy clean with a knife. Cut a slice to fit over and a gouge to let mechanicals slide. Fit as needed inner and outer door with a little creativity you now have a Cad.
I have a better idea - and I'm being serious - If I wasn't thinking of selling the six, I'd prolly take the windows right out of the doors. I never use them anyhow.
Thanks for the tip...
Most door rattle is from door latch remote control assembly. TRF PLATE FE35. With the inner door pannel off you will see this assembly is virtually touching the metal of the door. There is suppose to be some felt material glued to the metal inner side of the door where this long flat bar goes along. Add a little more felt at intervals along its length. While you are there, the glass channel assemblies are also suppose to be felt lined. This should solve 90% of your door noise.
|Hi John and RickC|
If your outside and inside window rubber and whiskers are worn out you need to replace. Thats window rattle.
If its the mechanics inside the door this works perfect.
The reason I suggest the pink stuff I think its called extra dense celulose or something is it won't rot or collect water. Even sliced thin it stays together no chips or breaking like styrofoam. Flexes as well.
For the item Rick refers to take a piece of the stuff about twice as deep and cut a slice 2/3s in it. Then gouge so locks on. Slip over the top and your done. Rod across bottom same way.
There should be a rubber sound pad glued to the outside door panel as well.
I don't know if that makes sense in writing but it works better than anything for getting rid of door rattles.
|Gents, thanks for the tips, I'll prolly try the foam board fix but there are other noise sources with the doors.|
What about a door that is loose after it shuts on the latch. Ie: it has about 1/8 to 1/4 inch of play toward the center of the car. Furflex looks fine.
Also, what about the creeks and groans with doors rubbing due to frame flex.
Good grief, I didn't realize how mushy the frames on these cars are. No wonder they don't handle on a track.
|John, I rebuilt my doors last winter. I highly recommend removing the doors and taking your time to clean and/or replace and/or paint all the inner works.|
First gut the doors, then off to the spray wash for a blast. The amount of collected dirt is amazing. After a thourough cleaning and drying, I sprayed the inner seams with Rust Check, let that penetrate and sprayed again. Next sprayed the entire inside with sound deadening undercoat (the one containing rubber). I replaced the window tracks, scrapers, panels and weather stripping. Remember to prop a 2x4 in the gap between A and B posts - where the doors were, don't want any saggage. This is good post season work as it gives you something to look at and fiddle with during the long days of the Great White. The final result - no rattles, pings or buzzes.
Are you attending the Vintage Europeen Car show this weekend? See you there. SC
I did a similar job on my drivers side door. I removed the door and replaced everything with new including the hinges. Can't quite figure why the thing is so noisy.
See you at the show this weekend.
73 5 Speed.
This thread was discussed between 07/09/2003 and 09/09/2003
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