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Triumph TR6 - 'Loose' steerring?

Greetings, I am restoring a 70 TR6 with 59M original miles. It seems to have a lot of play in the steering. I read in an article in TRF that I should start with the bushings. Before jumping into that any other suggestions? I have a 68 MGB that is really tight and it makes this even more noticeable. Thanks for any help!


As helper turns wheel, check steering rack does not move in the mounts. You may need to replace the bushings if this is not the case. It would be a good idea to check and replace ALL the 34 year old bushings while you're at it if not already done.

I'm sure you'll get tons more advice from other members of this board as well.

One last thing. Be sure to become a member. The archives are a great resource as it contains years of combined knowledge. That, and there's a goose loose in here that bites non-members until they join. Jim can give you the details as he is the "keeper."


Don from Jersey
D Hasara

Exactly what Don said. In addition, many upgrade the bushing material to polyurethane because it will last longer and improve steering. It's said the downside is a slightly harsher ride, but I didn't notice a difference.

Brent B

Hi Bill,

I too own an MGB(65) and had found the same situation as you did but I am restoring a lovely TR4.

Being new to the mark I will submit the changes I made and what appears to me to be adjusted to really tighten up the steering.

1.) Yes, replace the the steering column bushings to polyurethane, I did and noticed no more "up and down" movement. At the same time check that the steering mount under the dash (bulkhead) is not detached or damaged. It appears many people use the steering wheel as an aid to get in/out of the car.

2.) Are your steering rack mounts of the "rubber/metal" type? If so replace with all aluminum type.

3.) When you have installed # 2 above, have someone play with the steering wheel as you watch the rack carefully, if it moves just slightly then the actual metal brackets attached to the frame may be cracked or require stiffening up. I plan on welding reinforcment plates.

4.) If you see movement in the lower part of the column, nearest to the rack, then the lower gear that enters the rack may be worn. I had removed it and re-inserted it 180 degrees as there are no new replacements.

5.) Next up, your rubber "doughnut" at the top of your colum may require replacing. Personally, I believe it should be the same as the lower u-joint, made of metal having a more positive feel.

6.) Of course a good wheel alignment always helps and I have also changed to 72 spoke wires with spax shocks and all new polyurethane bushings in the front end.

Gotta tell I'm happier but still not there, like the "B" of course but sooner or later will have it lic ked to my taste.

I always felt that 60 pct. is handling.

Regards, Dino

Lest we forget sloppy tie rod ends as well Gemmens.

I replaced mine once upon a time, what a difference.

Goose Keeper indeed. He just LIVES here under the hood of my 6.

Join up Indy Bill, we hardly bite. <G>

Jim Deatsch

Bill,don't forget that TRs can also 'rear steer', if the (34 yr old) trailing arm bushings are shot - the rear wheels can also move. During my rebuild, I replaced all suspension bushings with urethane ( I've never driven a TR in original form) and am pretty impressed w/ overall handling (and I still have original steering rack mounts.) So I conclude, from experience and reading here, that suspension bushings are a very important part of the system, and all in a weekends work, start to finish. And the parts are not expensive. Peter G
Peter Gooch

This thread was discussed between 30/12/2003 and 04/01/2004

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