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Triumph TR6 - Manifold to Water Pump Pipe Frozen?
|72 TR6. I was replacing all rubber hoses on the car today when I noticed that the "Y" end of the manifold to water pump pipe appeared (to me) to be rotated too low. In other words, both parts of the "Y" end were aiming at the passenger side of the engine bay. Looking at the double nut at the water pump end, I thought I should be able to loosen the outer nut and rotate the pipe to a more desirable position, then retighten the outer nut. Is that how it is "supposed" to work? My pipe is not moving independently from the nut i.e., loosen the nut, and the whole pipe turns with it. Now I am afraid if I mess with it any more, I'll crack or break something. Any thoughts or comments would be appreciated.|
|Matthew, you are right they should move independently of each other as they are separate parts. They do however have a tendency to get stuck. Shoot it with some spray lube then hold the pipe as you wiggle the nut back and forth just a little. The lube should penetrate and let the nut turn. Isn't there a bracket at the back end of the engine to support the pipe? If the pipe is rotated to the wrong position, the bracket will be bent. The nut compress's a ferrule to make the joint water tight, just like under basins and tiolets. |
Thanks, that's what I figured. Yes, there is a bracket (which I didn't see at first) and my attempts to reposition the pipe kind of tweeked that a bit. I'll try more rust buster in there today a hope for the best.
BTW, if it does break, can it be replaced without removing the carb and exhaust manifolds? Please say yes (if it is true).
I don't know how easy it'll be to remove the pipe without removing the manifolds. I'm sure that it can be done though. I had mine all apart when I replaced the pipe with a new polished stainless steel one from Kai Radicke. Looks and hopes to work great. The bracket at the rear of the engine is attached to the rear engine plate. If you remove the pipe you can "adjust" the bracket with a cushioned hammer and anvil to whatever you need to properly position and attach it to the plate. Try Aerokroil to break the nut loose. If all else fails you're welcome to my used pipe and nut, both cleaned and now in my "left over" bin and I'll powder coat for you, but it'll still be a 39 year old water pipe!! Mine was full of crud, but I successfully cleaned it up just in case my new one did not work properly.
|Doug is probably right about being able to remove the pipe with the manifolds on. It will be a pita though. If you do take it off and use it again, wrap a few laps of teflon tape right around the whole ferrule, it will stand a much better chance of not leaking, making you remove it again. Also, little antisieze on the threads for next time.|
Well, lo and behold, the nut/pipe finally broke free late last night. It wasn't a sudden "snap" but more of a slow, squeeky release. I will button everything back up with new hoses today and then refill the cooling system. Then, the moment of truth will come as to whether the whole process damaged the pipe in any way (i.e. read - cracked).
Thanks to all of you who offered suggestions (and Doug who even offered a part).
It is comforting while going through a frustrating process like that to read occasional "I've been through thats" and "Hey, how about trying this". Helps to keep one grounded.
Thanks again, Matthew
This thread was discussed between 26/08/2010 and 27/08/2010
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