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Triumph TR6 - Manuals
|Good day all|
I am new to the world of Triumph. I recently (pick up next week) purchased a 1974 TR6 in what seems to be fair shape. I am not fooling myself into thinking I have no work to do on it in fact I am looking forward to diddling with it.
My question is what manuals should I be buying. There are a number of them out there and I need the the most comprehensive one I can get.
Welcome to TR6 ownership! I bought a TR6 in what I believed to be fair shape too... Good job you are willing to get your hands dirty is all I will say about that!
As for the manuals, there are several, with one by Robert Bentley usually being regarded as the best - it is available on Amazon (at least it used to be available - can't spot it now) for under $40 shipped. They often come up on ebay and sell pretty cheap. It is a reprint of the factory manual, with the owner's guide reprinted at the start. The late model factory manual is available from the roadster factory (www.the-roadster-factory.com) for a sensible price last I looked. The earlier factory manual doesn't seem to be for sale anywhere, but there is a scanned copy available - if you don't mind printing pages as you need them then just e-mail me your address and I will send you a copy on CD, along with a load of other great TR6 stuff that some chaps on this site put together. There is also a Haynes manual which I personally don't like very much, though it does have some useful pictures now and then.
Much easier to ask the guys here than look at a manual, though - apparently taking all the bolts out of your engine once a year to polish their heads helps to build knowledge! (Sorry Rick!)
Hope that helps a bit.
I would very much like a copy of the cd.I think you can see my email now. As far as Haynes goes I am not the greatest fan either. I have been frustated more than once yet I keep buying them. I will check out your other leads as well.
Welcome to TR-6 ownership. Alistair has it right, but after you get the Bentley manual, go to TRF and download their Catalog Vol II on PDF. VOL I may be available or if not you can order it, about $9.00 if I remember correctly. These two parts catalogs have exploded drawings of almost every part along with part numbers for everything. Best reference I've found for figuring out how things should go together and what's necessary to make them do so.
Of course, if you get CDs I & II from Alistair you'll have all that and more.
sure do not want you to think you will only get help from the guys south of the imaginary line.
Yup, CDII has one of The Roadster Factory's Volumes in it. It is VOLII as Doug mentions above. Unfortunately, VOLI has not been avaialble for many years but looks like they will bring it out possibly soon....soon has been said for a few years now though. Both VOLUMNS are what I have refered to as the first and second testament. VERY VERY useful documents that literally show you every part and every nut and bolt.
Wait till you get CDII from Alistair before you run out and buy books.
You can also get on MOSS's mailing list to have their sales books sent to you. A good reference book with part numbers so you can get current prices from MOSS distributors. CDII has a MOSS sales book on it. Do not get scamed by CDs on e-bay. What Alistair is sending you is exactly the same and more.
Welcome Gord, and ask away.
P.S. Alistair, polishing the heads of engine bay bolts also builds character not to mention impresses the judges. OhYa, thanks for sending Gord a copy.
I have VOL I (Green book) in electrons, but so does TRF on their website, and it's a better copy than what I scanned. Rick I thought that I gave that to you for CD II!!
|Guys, don't pan the Haynes manual altogether. I agree that the ones available now are not the best. BUT - If you can get your hands on one printed when the cars were new they are MUCH better and far more comprehensive. Typically they started pairing down the pages in the book once a car goes out of production.|
I have an early MGB manual that is over an inch thick. The new ones are less than half that!
They won't take the place of the Bentley (the best IMHO), but they show slightly different ways to do the same task.
|Guys, in addition to the TRF Green and Blue books, the Haynes and Bentley, the other "bible" to which I turn is the BL Manual. The plates are smaller than TRF's, but very detailed and the BL part numbers are on everything. Also, if you have a particular area like steering or suspension or engine, etc. for which you want an exploded drawing go to Rimmer Bros at http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk You can print out an exploded parts diagram on 11x17 and see plenty of detail. Part numbers are also BL.|
Then Gord to complete your library, you'll need Dan Master's Electrical book, a volume on Tuning Carbs and for good measure...:"How to Restore Your TR-6, & How to Improve Your TR-6" Then if you have any coins left, order Kasten's three books from Amazon or TRF!!
Yup, you the man. Dan's electrical book. I have head nothing but good comments (Available from TRF) not sure who has it in Canada or directly from Dan himself.
Doug you got me slightly confused. The green book is VOLUME 2 not VOLUME 1. Yes I did get the scanned V II from you. It is on CDII and yes see that TRF has a much better "digital" copy. It is too bad the person who scanned VOLUME 2 did not instead scan the blue one (VI) since it is the one out of print and the original artwork for that volume has been lost forever. However, Charles says he is working on having VI on his web site.
Doug, is there an easy way to get VI digital version for my collection ( I am trying to word this, uuummmm ,without getting myself in trouble again. E-mail me please).
|Well if this response is any indication of the input I will receive to my questions I believe my six could rebuild itself. ( if I can just teach it to read) Thanks for all the input|
I am waiting for Alistairs CD Thanks Alistair
I have put myself on the MOSS mail list Thanks Rick
I will find Vol1 somewhere (and coin)Thanks Doug
Tom I really don't want to poopoo Haynes they are a definite standby in my very limited library
Welcome to the club. One essential that you need is the drink fine malt.
One good source of information is the Sports Car Chronicle published Bi-monthly from Obsolete Automotive in Ontario and it is free check them out on www.obsoleteauto.com
To other readers I now have the six front suspension fitted, but am experiencing some problems with getting the tie rods off.
|I have had a few e-mails asking for the CD, so time for a bit of clarification - the CD is not my own work - I am just passing copies on. The real work was done by Rick Crawford, Doug Baker and others. They collected a load of useful information for the TR6 owner before it disappeared from the internet in some cases, and other stuff is still online but it's easier to have your own copy, right? I have no problem sending out copies of the CD, but I just wanted to make it clear that all I am is an envelope stuffer! |
I sent a couple of copies to Canada this lunchtime (Gord and John B), and I will send one to Steve as soon as I can. I got my copy of the first CD (the CD we are talking about here is techincally CD2 - the sequel!) from a chain of sorts - so if anyone else is willing to send out a copy or two please post here to that effect so I can cut down on trips to the post office!
Oh, and sorry if I sounded like I was being mean about the Haynes manual. It is great to have an extra description of things, but I just wouldn't want to use it as my only reference - the copy I have (printed 1978) has quite a lot of errors in things like the fastener size tables and some of the pictures aren't even a TR6 (or TR250/5). Took me about an hor to work that out as I tried to find something clutch related using the Haynes picture, which I now believe showed a Dolomite clutch...
Now tell me about these Kastner books - do I really need them?
I can send some of them out. Let me know. One good turn...........
You are being to modest. Now let me say that YOU where kind enough to host a WEB site where "the guys" could go and down-load a copy of CDII. That was very kind of you as it sure beat the mailing thing around the world as frankly, it took bit of time to set up.
Alistair, I do not understand why you do not have a copy of CDII. CDII was the one up on your WEB site, CDI was the mailed one. You can recognize if you have CDII by looking at the file:
TR6 DOCUMENTS!!!/A READ THIS FIRST/README_FEB2006.rtf You will see it has an addendum on page 2 stating "this copy is CDII".
CDI does not have a copy of TRF VOLII on it but then Doug and I are off-line discussing a very compact version and maybe it can be avaialble to people who only have CDI.
Sorry Gord, as you can see, some times threads get hijacked a little.
Oh Ya, Alistair Kas's books are more for race/rally preping a TR6 but does have good points about the weaknesses of the TR6 frame like the RR dif. mount on older TR6s
Fear not - I have CD2, and that's the one I am sending out.
Speaking of Kas Kastner and thread hijacking...anyone else planning to go to the vintage grand prix at Watkins Glen in September? Sounds like there will be a lot there to interest the Triumph owner (including Kas kastner, to bring us back to the first thread hijack topic!).
|You had me worried there for a second lad.|
Watkins Glen EH? That would be intersting. When is it...British Car day is September 21st.
|So to get us back on Gord's topic. Here is a link to MOSS's WEB site with a PDF download of their current sales flier.|
Ya Ya I know, not as easy to take the lap top in the WC as it is their (the same thing) sales flier. But it is nice to look at while you wait for the mail to arrive.
|The best manual is a computer and forums like these. Real time and real info and if your lucky PHOTOS!|
Thanks a million. I got the CD. It is exactly what I was looking for.
I missed my pick up last week which in a way was a good thing it gave me a little more time to study. Unfortunately the more I read the more I am uncertain about what to look for in my purchase.
I am leaving on an 16 hour round trip with my trailer on friday in hopes of bringing home a 1974 TR6. Is there any WALK AWAY help you can give me? I am looking at less than $7000 if that helps. I have read about broken or craked mounts, trailing arm probems, thrust washer issues and any number of other problems. Don't get me wrong, I am not afraid of having some work to do. I just don't want to miss something that may be disaster.
The simplest advice I can give is to buy the best body / frame you can, period. If the mechanicals are in good shape all the better - but it is by far the least of your worries.
Body / frame / sheet metal is THE most expensive thing to fix on a car. Mechanicals are cheap by comparison.
If the 16 hour trip doesn't yield a car, just chalk it up to a learning experience. DON'T pressure yourself into buying it if it's not good enough.
My son and I bought a 'new' MGB bodytub for his car in Arizona last year. By the time it was all done it was $1500 to buy it and get it home. It needs some minor bump work and one dog-leg patch, along with paint. His old car needed full rockers (5 pieces each side) plus quarter panels and fenders. Even with my discounts, the 'new' shell was cheaper than the replacement sheet metal. Plus I don't have to spend the time putting them in.
I've slaved over enough rusted out hulks. Now-a-days only rust free for me!
BTW - My 71 TR6 came out of San Jose, California. Only rust is where the convertible top rear anchor bar captive nuts ripped out. It needs bump work, paint, interior and trim. It's a diamond in the rough, but overall an easy project.
Good ones are out there. Take your time, you'll find one.
By 1974 they had resolved the F.R. DIF mount breaking problem as both front mounts had been beefed up by then. As far as trailing arms are concerned, it is the mounting point and that area of the frame where the problem is. It has been known to rust out there.
Does the engine start or even turn over? What is the mileage?... unfortunately not necessarily the truth. It would be a good idea to check end play(engine in the car)to see just how bad the thrust washers are. Do this when you get the car home. They can be replaced along with main and rod bearings with engine still in the car.
If the engine turns over or starts then get her going and then look at oil pressure there or at home. Gord the car is 34 years old so there is probably going to be some engine work need that could include a full rebuild.
All body parts and pannels can be bought new if you want to go that far.
Electrical..well just remember 2 things...the DPO and the prince of darkness. CDII has a full electrical schematic of all year TR6's
Plumbing will probably need some work both clutch and brakes.
Take lots of pictures for your scrapbook and post some here or on a picture hosting WEB site.
Talk to you upon my return..........
This thread was discussed between 04/02/2008 and 13/02/2008
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