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Triumph TR6 - New noise

Hi guys.
Early 1974 TR6. Very basic stock.
Just started hearing a new noise; one that I'm sure at least one or all of you might recognise.
It's a high pitched 'chirping'coming from the rear, especially on acceleration in first and second gear.(universal joint?) More obvious accelerating around turns.(differential?)
It really is not unlike a chirping bird, high pitched, and faster at higher RPM's. Seems to drop off in third gear.
Please tell me this sounds familiar and is "not a problem at all."


High Keith

Rust on brake drums edges. Remove and clean. From your location car is stored winters. Very common.

Check your diff oil level. Not likly but check.

May be other but that would be first bet.

Let us know
Bill Brayford

It's inspection time! Get a flashlight and take a good look at the differential mounts - I had a broken one that caused "chirping" like you described, but it was most evident when crusing, and the "chirps" coincided with road motion. If that's the problem you need to fix it straight away. There are reinforcing kits (TRF) that can be welded/brazed on there to patch things up. Then go back with polyurethane mounts.
Brent B

The last time my TR chirped at me it was the throughout bearing. Mean-nasty-messy quite involved job I'm afraid.

Not as terrible as I thought!
The problem was (is) a differential that has lost most of its oil. So, I got the gear oil (Sta-lube GL4 85W90), spent most of the evening cracking open the fill-hole plug, but here's the next problem. There's no way to get the oil container(small 32 oz. size)close enough to the fill-hole. How do you pump the oil to the fill-hole? Maybe easy, but I'm not getting it.
I'm sure someone has had the same issue. Please help.

They make all kinds of pumps from cranks to a push type resembling a grease gun. Shiould be not too expensive
Don K.

It is in a pretty awkward position to add gear oil. I used a large medical-type syringe to inject 20CC doses until full. This 'vaccinations' kept the diff healthy until I hade time to pull the diff & put a seal in.

I just get a tube, shove it over the end of the oil can, put the other end in the diff and squeeze.
1 litre is more than enough. When it starts top leak out, its full.

You can buy a clear plastic tube at the parts store (Advance, I think) for $1.50 that screws right on to the gear lube bottle.
Jim Vandenberg

I posted a reply to servicing the differential awile back but I'll repeat it. If you remove the right rear wheel you have a straight shot at the plug over the exhaust pipes. I use a 12 point 1/2 inch socket with a long extension and screw the plug out. A long piece of 5/16 hose and a quart botttle of differential oil is used to top up the level. Then screw the plug back in and reinstall the wheel. It takes me about 5 minutes.
Joe Justice
Joe Justice

Finished! But......

Finished topping up the differential this evening using my secret weapon; two words..."Turkey Baster."
Now the bad news; that same @$&* noise from my first post is still there. It's kind of a chirping, whining, screaming that's only there under load in first and second, increasing in pitch and speed with RPM's. And worst of all, it's not always there! Driving me crazy.
Some consolation; the diff needed topping up anyhow.
Thanks for the support,


I had the same thing a few years ago, and it ended up being the differential mounts as Brent described earlier. In your latter posts I don't see any reference to them, so you may have found them to be OK, but if not, would suggest you check it out immediately, as this can be a serious issue. If your "chirps" are accompanied by occasional "clunks", it's a clear sign this is the problem.

Jim Vandenberg

Keith - to help clarify the mount issue, on the front mounts, the short arm, I think, the stud sticks through a metal support piece about 1-1/2" wide. With bad mounts the support piece flexes and can fatigue crack. If a crack is present, it will run through that metal from the hole to one or both sides.
Brent B

HI Keith

Well diff mounts will chirp but never had one scream and whine?

Thats usually the old girl in the passenger seat after a few full tilt wheel chirping turns. Thank god for 3M and duct tape. Nope never done it ladies but sure as h*ll thought about it. :)

Under load as you describe now and scream is likely a UJ? Diff bearings or wheel bearings may cause as well. But UJ most likely from description. I get the impression you can't tell which side? So more center rear??

I don't know how much greasing you do yourself. But the inner UJs on the axles are often missed if done at a lube joint? The ones under the bells don't get lubed and you can be sure the kid doesn't have a lube page for a TR on the computer.

Thats where I would start. One cap on a UJ with a bad grease passage can go away real fast and will cause the noises desribed. Try a good greasing first and see what happens?

Myself I would lift grease one test, inside axle first etc. etc. saves some work in the long run. The one thats screaming will be shot even if it gets better with the grease for awhile?

Hope thats it easiest.

Bill Brayford

Took off the 'bells' - are a pain in the U know what. U/Js are exposed in ALL vehicles where they are used, and last at least a 100k - why should a Triumph be any different. Peter ( And a very simple job!)
Peter Gooch

Peter-Good question, I have always wondered the same thing, but never removed them. I cast my for vote for dry U joints as the source of the chirping noise. Sometimes they are covered with fine red rust dust.

This thread was discussed between 26/05/2003 and 02/06/2003

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