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Triumph TR6 - Oil filter - ack!
|The best way to learn is getting dirty and asking questions!|
Okay, I am sure it is NOT new news that the oil filter access on the TR6 simply stinks! On my '75, I was never able to even get the cover/bell out of the compartment where it connects to the engine b/c it would not fit thru any openings. I had to twist & shove just to get the old filter element out and the new one in. What is the trick? Does something have to be removed or disconnected?
And for the "spin-on" adaptors, they look like they can be oriented in any direction - what direction is most popular? After this past weekend, I might just spend the $50...I miss my spitfire accessability!
Mike in MI
Do yourself a BIG fovour and go spend the 50 bucks. I do not think there are very many TR6s left out there that do not have the adaptor installed....except maybe one:)
The adaptor is aimed down so change of filter is from the bottom. Mine is aimed forward so as to miss the frame. There is an issue re the O rings supplied....which one to use?? Help me out here guys.
Also there has been considerable talk as to which filter to use. "Join the club" so as to view past posts re this subject.
I still don't have the adapter, although it is in my future plans. I find it best to work from underneath and remove the clutch slave cylinder. Just pull the pin and remove the bolts on the bracket and drop it down a bit. True it's a pain, but overall I think it's quicker and less messy.
|Go for the adaptor. It is one of the very few mods on my otherwise original '74. My filter is angled slightly forward to clear the slave cy,inder and frame w/ engine movement taken into account. I painted mine w/ black Hammerite to lose the aluminum sheen and prevent surface corrosion.|
It really decreases the pump up time when starting.
The kit comes with two O rings of different thicknesses and a bit of plasticene. You put the thinner ring in the adaptor, put the plasticene over the ring and tighten the adaptor to see if you are getting adequate compression. If not, go to the bigger ring. Be careful not to crush the copper crush washer when you are test fitting the O ring.
I use a Mann filter, a little pricey but it is a quality filter and seems to have the best anti-drainback valve based on watching my oil pressure gauge while cranking.
Good luck, W
|O.K. Here is a question to you 6'ers that feel like I feel. Any thoughts to a remote filter? It has to be easier than the cramped present location. Anybody run a oil cooler with a remote filter?|
|As a relatively new 'sixer', I took one look at the old filter setup and bought the adaptor.All I did was rotate the clutch slave 180 degrees for a tad more clearance ( without even knowing what was supposed to be 'right' - I like easy - Fram 2825 fits vertically so can fill before installing, and no more mess. Spend the money - you'll never regret it.I found the smaller O ring worked fine. Peter G|
I too have the spin-on adapter on my '76 TR6. I also use Mann filters (high quality and good availability to my shop). Mann are OEM on just about every German car out there so they've gotta be good! I canted mine slightly forward and so far it's been a major improvement over the original "bowl" type.
I'm one of the few with the old filter, because of several unsuccessful attempts (leaks) with the spin-on adapter. We learned in an earlier thread (check archives) that the groove depth can vary from block to block, and that could be my problem.
Keith from Minneapolis posted lately that there's a Mocal model that eliminates the guesswork of which o-ring to use. It's spring loaded and should adjust itself. I'm waiting for his posting to learn if it works. If it does, I'll be converting as well, and the price seems about the same.
|For you really observant types; theres a hole thropugh the wheel well provided to access the oil filter bolt. Loosen and pull the bolt through and the filter falls away (well almost). It's not such a big deal.|
How goes things up there in To.?
|What's everyone's opinion on the Crosland GFE 148 spin-on oil filter?|
I have used them each and every time I have done an oil change on my '72. (about 4 total) They seem to do the job ie:match up to the mount well and don't leak. I beleive this is the usual stock item thru TRF I have 2 on my rack right now.
|Thanks Keith. I was curious about their anti-drainback capability as that is very important.|
|Rick, Explain what you mean by that.|
|The better filters have a well-designed anti-drainback valve (ADV) to prevent oil from draining out of the filter (and the oil galleries) when the engine is off. Obviously, this feature prevents "dry" starts.|
For more than you care to know about ADV's, see http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/
Bob is the oil guy, more like Bob is the oil Obiwan. All you ever wanted to know about oil, ever, ever wanted to know I feel like Jed Clampett.
|Good comments. I'm overdue for my first do it yourself oil change--the last one was in August by the crooked Jag mechanic, but I haven't put 3,000 miles on since. Having paid attention, I plan on trying to do it over the next weekend or two and using the original filter. If it is too major a pain in the ass, I will order the adapter before my next change.|
|Regarding the anti-drainback feature...TR's with the adapter are immune from this as the filter is almost vertical, so oil is always in the filter even when the engine is off.|
|thanks Charlie I was thinking the same thing but was not quite sure the naked Crossland I have on my desk looks like any filter I have taken out in my 47 + years.|
After my trip to Bob's I wasn't sure what to think. you should check it out if oil goes into a filter at 40psi and comes out at 30psi is that good or is 35psi better.? when I have more time I will have to check it out again.
|Charlie--I have to take exception to what you said. It's not only oil IN the filter, but also oil IN the galleries above the filter that is critical. If the ADV leaks, the oil in the engine will naturally seek the lowest level (the sump via the filter). So while a bad ADV may allow the filter to remain full of oil, the galleries above it are "dry". That is not the preferred condition for engine longevity.|
Next time you do a cold start, note the delay on your oil pressure gauge. A properly functioning ADV will be reflected in an almost instantaneous increase in pressure.
I think understand what you are saying but there will always be oil in the filter whether it's an ADV type or just a regular filter will it not ? Once the car is shut off the oil that that was in the process of being pumped to the filter simply stops and since the adapter type sits vertical that oil stays in the filter and the oil in the galleys above will drain down to the sump irregardless. I use a regular type filter and my pressure is up in seconds once I start the engine, I don't think it will reach pressure any faster with an ADV type because of the angle of the filter.
|The original filter cannister is truly a pain in the ass. Having never changed oil before, and I'm above the average age in the other thread, it took me no time at all to get the oil out. But getting that cannister off and back on was a pain. I managed by getting the filter out of the cannister and was able to get the filter itself through the tiny space from the bottom, but the cannister wouldn't make it. Put the new filter and seal in the same way. So far, everything seems fine and oil isn't shooting out of anywhere.|
The good news is that I noticed that I apparently have an almost brand new clutch slave, although the bolts were too tight for me to loosen easily enough to move it.
|I NEVER had to move the clutch slave cylinder to access the filter back when using the cartridge. But now you know why everyone likes the spin-on filter adaptor!|
This thread was discussed between 23/02/2004 and 13/03/2004
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