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Triumph TR6 - Panel replacement on or off frame
Question, now that I have a new to me frame (kindly donated from Chris Trace). Should I put the body (temporary) back on the frame, so that I can replace the floor pans & sills?
|You are most welcome Les, it depends on how you are going to cut the floors out. If you use a cutting torch you probably don't want the frame under there, if by angle grinder or cutting snips having the frame underneath wouldn't pose much of a problem.|
Supporting the body while cutting and welding is very important so maybe angle /die grinder or snips are the safest way to go.
I'm looking forward to the tunes.
I am in agreement with the comments from Chris.
The more support you can put under the body the better.
Also I would be inclined to use the grinder rather than a torch to avoind distortion of the panels so far as possible.
I understand this will take extra time but since this is probably a "one time" job , in my opinion it it will be time well invested.
I agree. Cut it on the frame. It also helps to keep things aligned.
|Michael S. Petryschuk|
Keep the body on the frame, once you remove the floor pan and sills, your A and B pillars are hanging out there in space and can be easily moved so you need as much support as possible. Also, the frame helps with positioning the new floor pan since I found the replacement to be slightly longer than the original.
The downside is that it is not easy to remove the old floor at the rear corner of the drive shaft tunnel.
I used a combination sawzall, cutoff wheel and chisel to take out the old metal. You will still need to take the body off at some point to get at some of the welds but as long as the sills and floors are connected, you should not have a problem. Careful with the reattachment of the inner A pillar and sill - have fun
The frame is going in for repair to the front suspension tower and alignment checks. After this is completed I will have the body put back on the frame and have the panels replaced.
I presume you are aware that the CD has all the alignment specs.
I have these printed of on 24 x 36 inch sheets, the frame chap is very appreciative.
|Just one more tip that helped me, make sure that you put the spacers in between the floor pan and the frame before welding. |
The floor will be at the proper height at the front firewall and the rear verticle section since there will be a lip you can clamp on to. However, the edge of the pan that runs along the inner sill and the drive shaft tunnel can sag if it isn't shimmed with the spacers.
I guess the spacers that you refer to are the A & B post packing plates.
Question, does anyone have a photo of the sill brackets? I have having trouble visualizing where/how they fit. Are they attached to the sill or floor pan?
The spacers are the rubber / metal pads that sit between the floor pan and the mounting points on your frame. There are metal spacers on the drive shaft side under the floor pan. On the inner sill side of the floor pan , you have the 4 bolts at the A pillar and 3 at the B pillar
This is also where your sill brackets are located.
The front bracket is a U section that is welded under the floor with a flange that is welded to the inside lip of the floor pan. (This lip forms the back side of the outer sill). The rear bracket is asymetrical and angled to clear the trailing arm but attaches in the same method.
Here you can see the rear bracket and what is left of the floor pan lip...
If you are going to weld this bracket, I would suggest tacking it in place when the body is on the frame, that way, the thru holes for the bolts will line up.
We are supposed to be snowed in tomorrow, maybe I can spend the day in the garage, I'll try to snap a couple of pics.
Check out my web seems very similar. And before anyone says things, yes it has been one full year since it has been updated, but come back soon.
This thread was discussed between 09/02/2007 and 14/02/2007
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