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Triumph TR6 - power loss

Very happy '73 TR6 new owner. I've put abou 1k miles on since April 2011, bought November '10. Problem: driving strong last week, then sudden loss of power, could not restart. Called flatbed, brought home. Ignition working but will not fire. I'm thinking fuel pump? Definitely has gas in tank. Good cranking power but will not start.
I am looking forward to our discussions!
DM McGannon

Points or Petronix?
How do you know ignition is working.
Has the car been sitting prior to you getting it.
Who was the owner?
How is the filter?
Pull a fuel line from the carb. Is it pumping fuel?
You hear more from other,I'm sure

Don Kelly

DM

Sounds similar to when my fuel pump quit. As Don suggests- disconnect fuel line at carbs and crank to see if you are getting fuel flow.

Possible dirty gas filter.
Possible plugged gas tank outlet.(if tank sat empty and developed rust.
Michael Petryschuk

Nuther thing, probably not a problem if it has sat and still won't start.
Open the fill cap and see if there is a woosh sound.
Don Kelly

Thanks guys! My father has has owned a '63 TR3B for decades. I'm so excited about my TR6, getting advice even after calling AAA is interesting!
OK Don - points not Petronix. (should I definitely upgrade to Petronix?).
- I said the ignition is working but I may be using wrong terminology. It's not clicking, it sounds like it's going to start but won't (rrrr, rrrr, rrrr). If I keep trying, battery will go dead.
- Car history: interesting (and a bit scary!). Years ago, car was brought into the local shop (reputable, long established)that excels in older & foreign cars. Long-time owner of the shop replaced the alternator and called the TR6's owner. Who had moved out of the country! The shop owner liked the car, got a mechanic's lien and title and kept it for 5 years. I think this is a good thing. He took care of it and has been real reasonable on repairs (1 leaky fuel line, replaced weak-looking radiator hoses). Also when they did the alignment, changed fluids, plugs, etc. And I got a real fair price. He is actually going to stop by the house to take a look this weekend so if I need parts the car is not outside at his shop until the parts come in.
- I don't know about the fuel filter (2 right?). They have fuel in them I can see. I will replace both ASAP.
- To test the fuel, just pull the line from the carb and then what? Try to start and see if pumping?
- Of note: Weber carbs, speedometer needle fell off, fixed, fell again. Bought new speedo cable, yet to install. I'm a newbie (for now). Oh man, there's a million things I need to figure out, I'm enjoying it for sure!
DM McGannon

Webers?,which ones and that is a horse of a different color
Where did you get the speedo cable. Most of the new ones don't really fit well.
Are the plugs firing?
Turning the starter doesn't guarantee the ign. is working
Don Kelly

I believe they are dual Weber 45MCHH's.
Got the speedo cable from Moss Motors (69")
DM McGannon

Many of the speedo shops want the cable when they do repairs as most innerds are the wrong length.

On the Weber and starting problem. If it is carb related ,I'm out.
I only know a bit about carbs and when you throw webers in I'm clueless.
As if that was a surprise guys
Don Kelly

To test fuel pump

Disconnect flex hose on fuel line near carbs. Get a container. Place line in container (to avoid spilling gas all over)Crank engine. You should see a pulsating flow of gas come out. If no gas comes out or it isn't very strong then possibly fuel pump is a problem.

I only have one fuel filter but I have the Stromberg original set up. Unless you see debris or junk in the filters, it likely isn't the cause if you have 2 and they are looking clear. But by pass them and see if it starts would confirm it.

If you can wait, maybe it is fastest if the PO looks into it this weekend.
Michael Petryschuk

........and the verdict is...........

What is it DM?


Rick
Rick Crawford

OK so the PO/mechanic stopped by, I'm at a bit of a loss...

He tried to start, would not. Said sounds like no fuel, gauge shows half full. Put yard stick in tank through fuel fill cap, shows fuel, a few inches up, looks good.

Pull wire off distributor, have spark/ignition.

Pull fuel line off by fuel filter, fuel flowing when hand pump fuel pump.

Asked if I had carburetor cleaner spray, do not.

Bottom line: he says he thinks it's water in gas with probably fouled plugs. He didn't bring a spark plug wrench.

(he said I need to buy this stuff - I said I spent all my $ on the car!) (not really)

Recall power was lost abruptly. I figured if it was the plugs or carbs it would just start running rough.

The plugs are about a month old.

He said he would stop by with new plugs and if that doesn't work, I'll have to have it on a flatbed to his shop.

I'm thinking it could be the Webers?

I was using the overdrive when the engine went out, possible connection?

I need new gaskets, slow oil drip, have been topping off 20W-50.

And it was a perfect beautiful weekend for a drive...
And my neighbors' TR6 and TR3 drove by several times....Painful.
DM McGannon

and looked into the distributor cap, brand new
DM McGannon

DM,
Did you pull a spark plug and make sure you have spark to the cylinder? If not, do so. If you have a good hot blue spark, your problem is fuel. Figure where in the process fuel can be interrupted. If it flows from the pump to the carb what can go wrong there to cut it off?? I'm not famliar with the webers, but were it a ZS I'd suspect the needle valve having broken. Yep, sounds like your webers!
db
Doug Baker

DM

I had an experience with my 68 Spitfire where I was highway driving and I heard a clunk and the engine lost power and would not restart. I towed it home.

I pulled apart the engine and could not find anything mechanically wrong , put it back together and it worked fine and has since.

My conclusion though unproven- the distributer drive gear or timing chain jumped a sprocket and the car lost timing.

Check if number one piston is firing at TDC and the rotor is lined up with the number one cylinder on the distributer cap.

Michael Petryschuk

and

Check if the intake valve is just opening and exhaust valve just closing when the piston on the intake stroke is at TDC.

Good luck- sounds perplexing
Michael Petryschuk

Here's my best guess: Have you checked the insulator block on the distributor? (wires from coil to points) If it's cracked, yer dead, it grounds right to the distributor body. I agree with the thought that fuel is probably not the problem.
Good luck!!
Rod
Rod Nichols

Update: Picked up the car last night from the mechanic, ran well thank goodness. Tune up, new spark plugs, cap & rotor, condenser, points, ignition wires, ignition timing an fuel system.
I thank you all for your thoughts.

They installed 7mm ignition wires, felt pretty hot after drive. I didn't see a recommended size in the manual, Moss sells 8 and 8.5mm. Any recommendations?

I had a new speedo cable, they installed. Said need a new "cluster" (?). Now my odometer not working.

Also my headlights are now out, only turn on when I use high beams. Strange.


DM McGannon

DM (Dan?)
all pretty easy to fix.
Hopefully they didn't bugger up the sp[eedo when they installed the new cable. Told you most new ones are not correct.
Winter project. Pull the speedo and rebuild it. Pretty easy . I'll send you links for it when you are ready
7mm are fine with a fairly stock motor and electrics. You can spend the money for bigger put don't think it is needed in your situ.
Headlights are simple. Most problems are loose grounds but I bet in your case they knock a wire loose behind your dash
Here is the best Schematic sight. Book mark it and burn it to memory
http://www.advanceautowire.com/tr2506.pdf
This is your bible for ths car.
I would start by checking to see if you have power to them

Good luck
PS it could look like this


Don Kelly

This thread was discussed between 30/08/2011 and 14/09/2011

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