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Triumph TR6 - Pulled the engine yesterday!
Clive came over yesterday and pulled the engine on my 71 TR6. He did most of the work while I just unbolted whatever he told me to unbolt. Clive's going to rebuild it and I can't wait to get it done in time for our beautiful winter weather here in South Florida. A couple of questions for you veterans. First, should I clean all the old bolts in gasoline or something, so they look better when we put it back together? Second, what is the best way to clean the outside of the transmission box, now that it is free of the car? Somehow, I doubt my pressure cleaner would be very good for it, but it sure would be quick! How do you clean those kinds of things? John |
JL Bryan |
John- I took mine to a coin car wash and burned up a couple of bucks cleaning mine. Most places say don't clean engines so do it off hours. Don |
DON KELLY |
I just use an engine cleaner, scrub it with a brush and hose it off. I'd change the oil afterwards incase you get water in it. I would't get to crazy about it, it'll get dirty again and you can't see it anyway. But with the engine out it would be a good time to do the same to the engine bay. ALSO, CHECK FRONT suspension MOUNTING BRACKETS. These are known to crack and it is a good time to get them welded up while the engine is out. |
skikir |
Can I just clean the bolts up with gasoline or is there something better? As to the transmission, I would love to turn the pressure cleaner on it, but am a little afraid to do so. If I sealed all the openings, would it be okay to try that? John |
JL Bryan |
I squirted detergent on mine then pressure washed it, final cleaning with solvent, I used methyl hydrate, it dissolves those rubber "doctor gloves" but gets rid of grease. After you clean the bolts use a wire brush to polish them up. Simon. |
Simon Rasmussen |
JL Bryan, One thing to recommend is once you clean up bolts, or suspension pieces or anything steel metal, you will want to spray them with some paint. I spent much time with a wire wheel and drill cleaning off crud, oil, rust etc on several parts. I did paint them but only with a brush and used Rustoleum from a can, flat black. For the most part all the items I had first painted are already starting to show small rusting again. I was going the cheep way at first and now prime the parts and then paint with a gloss or finish with a clear coat. I have been using DupliColor brand paints and like how the parts have turned out. You do not necessarily need to clean the aluminum case very well as it too oxidizes but simply leaves a white crusty film. I would get the major crud and oil off so you can "see" where new oil leaks appear after the rebuild. Good luck! |
MRankin |
Simon, what did you use a pressure washer on? I was thinking about using ours on the transmission, but am a little afraid to. Mrankin, thanks. I was considering rustoleum. I see 0 tract of rust or corrosion on the front cross member that I did clean off with grease remover. It was apparently originally painted black, but when I got all the accumulated crud off, most of it is down to bare metal and it looks really good. I don't know about the rest of the frame, though. JOhn |
JL Bryan |
John, Check your email for a photo of my cross member powder coated. db |
Doug Baker |
Doug Me to ! donkelly@earthlink.net |
DON KELLY |
Don, You got it. John, your mailbox was full. Empty your in box and I'll resend. db |
Doug Baker |
JL, I used the pressure washer on engine and gearbox, after taking them out of the frame, which then went for some welding. The frame was then sandblasted and I brush painted it with POR 15, using cheap brushes (which dropped bristles in the paint!) I did it upside down first, thinking most of the moisture will come from underneath, when it dried turned it back upright and did the top. I used the gloss finish and it is very shiny, I got some runs but it is only a chassis, more important to get it well covered than pretty. Simon |
Simon |
Simon, did you seal up the openings before you hit it with the pressure washer, and if so, how? I plan on replacing the transmission oil anyway, by the way. Thanks, John Doug, I don't think it is really full, but I saw that. I will empty everything out. |
JL Bryan |
RE: Cleaning the bolts If you have access to a sandblaster, use silica beads (i.e. bead blasting) to clean up the bolts if you are going to cadmium plate or oxidize black, or use a garnet abrasive to give the bolt heads a little bit better tooth for holding paint (if you are planing to paint them). You can put the bolts, washers and nuts in a wire basket and just shake the basket while blasting. I would degrease them prior to blasting to help keep from contaminating the blasting media. (yes, I'm a member, just on a different work comptuer with the cookies turned off!) |
Bob Blair |
John There are good engine degreasers out there that are not a "bomb in a can". You will need to clean the tranny off afterwords. Something like methalhydrate. When I did my engine with the tranny out, I spray painted the tranny with high heat aluminium engine paint. Will find out how long it lasts but looks good. Glad to hear you are working out doors. Is Clive going to use the VP2 bearings? Rick C |
Rick Crawford |
I don't know, Rick. As of last weekend, he was still working on getting the head off. My transmission looks pretty good without any further painting. Unless someone tells me there is a need to paint it, I don't think I will. John |
JL Bryan |
This thread was discussed between 08/08/2005 and 17/08/2005
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