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Triumph TR6 - Rear Axle Assy Front Bearing Seal
|As a recent new owner of a 73 TR6, I have been replacing those items that are worn,rattle or suggested to do so. My question is that I found the front seal leaking on the rear axle assembly when replacing the propshaft u-joints. I want to replace the differential mounting gaskets and u-joints on the half axles. Is it possible to remove the differertial and replace the front bearing and seal or is this something that requires a shop to do? Not sure if the bearing in a press fit on is held in with the seal and flange on the pro-shaft. Any suggestion would be appreciated.|
Another new owner who has joined the land of the insane. Welcome Bill. It sounds like you need to get the TR6 shop manual. This will help you. Also get the 2 spare parts catalogues from Victoria British Ltd.( VBL). <<www.victoriabritish.com>> So from your beginning,The front seal on the differential (the hypoid casing) is leaking. You can remove it but with some tools and the diff. droped out of the car. With the rest of the things you want to do you may as well drop the entire rear end out leaving only the trailing arm and spring. I just did a little searching for you.
Here are some archives in this BBS you definitely want to look at. Axle shafts,click vs clunk, attaching hub to trailing arm,differential oil seal,laws of nature-where's the plug,remove differential, and finally u-joints. There is a wealth of information here (understatement). The u-joint thread has the diff removal from car spelled out. Read this one carefully because there is a point in there re your prop shaft u-joints and alignment. (ignore what I said about this in reference to the drive shaft u-joints...I was properly corrected). The Drive shaft assembly removal is as follows and maybe do this before the diff. Jack up and support back of car on jack stands (you will need the jack for the diff removal).Remove back exhaust system. Remove both back road wheels (now release the hand brake). Remove the 4 bolts and nyloc nuts securing the drive shaft inner flange to the diff flanges. ( all nyloc nuts should be replaced with new ones on the reinstall). Remove brake drums- this one is always easier said than done. You will notice 2 slotted screws that must be removed..this is where the swearing starts. Start with penitrating oil and a big screw driver..have fun (remember on the reinstall to align these holes with tapped holes in hub and use anti-seeze on the new screws you will buy). Now with the screws removed you will more than likely need to tap off the drum. Take a hammer to the back edge of the drum where it meets with the back plate assembly and slowly work around till it pops off the drive flang. Inside the rear drum you may as well look at brake condition. You will notice 2 large holes in the rotatable flang. Through these holes remove the 6 nyloc nuts securing the hub bearing housing to the trailing arm ( read the thread Attaching hub to trailing arm). Withdraw hub assembly. WOW said enough. Lots of food for thought
I wish this thread could be renamed to "rear end 101"
Have fun Bill.
|Rick, thanks for all of the information. I will start with reading all the threads you noted. I am really looking forward to enjoying the 'Engliah' dirving experience. i did want to make sure the drive did not result in a road call. I plan to start on the repairs as soon as I have read the inforamtion. I have been reading the threads for the past 3 months and noticed that you have been very generous in sharing your expierence and information. Many thanks and I will keep you posted on the results. I took the 73 TR6 on as a retirement project. It may turn into a career. Many thanks again for your information.|
Thanks for the kind comment. Hillarie (aka Ted)did not think I was such a nice guy. Oh well. Bill there are others on this BBS with much more experience than me. One thing is for sure, we all love our cars. I blame my wife for getting me involved in the TR6 world..she told me "get a hobby".....I ended up with a mistress. Go figure! Any more questions Bill as you start your new career, ask a way.
P.S. Bill I think you will find this new career does not pay so good:)
|Bill - Welcome to the world of the retired. With your TR6, you'll never be without "work" or at least something to do. And when it's running great, you can take it out for a spin.|
By the way, I hope you don't plan to put a Cummings engine in your 6 !!!!
Is that who you used to work for ?
I've been driving my TR3A for 44 years now and I still find it great fun. I did a total body off restoration from 1987 to 1990 and have driven it a bit over 60,000 miles in 11 years.
Don Elliott, Original Owner, 1958 TR3A
|Don, thanks for your note. I beleive that the TR6 is going to be a career in itself. Alot of fun to drive, but challenging to work on. Maybe the British were getting even for 1776 by exporting their autos to the US. Yes I did work for Cummins for over 35 years. Another frustrated Engineer that likes to take things apart to see what makes them work and then wonders why it was designed that way. Look forward to repairing and driving. Hopefully more of the latter.|
This thread was discussed between 14/02/2002 and 15/02/2002
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