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Triumph TR6 - Rear Axle repair
My winter project is to replace the u-joints and bearings in both rear axles. I have ordered from LBCC the Bearing Kits and 4 UJs. My question is: is there other parts that should/must be replaced when pulling it all apart..ie. the adjusting spacer?? ( the kit comes with the collapsible spacer). Is there a trick to this collapsible spacer? Obviously all new nylocks.
|Rick-The biggest problem you are going to face is removing the hubs without bending the flanges into tacos. Unless you are able to build, buy or borrow a tool that supports the flange, you wil be money ahead to far them out to somene with the proper equipment.In addition to the hub puller, a dial indicator, bearing puller, and a large wrench for the adjusting nut are necessary. On the VTR ads, there is a person in North Carolina that rebuilds hubs for $165. Good Luck|
I attempted to rebuild my rear axles and ran into no end of problems. I have access to a machine shop, welding shop and my own Industrial Systems Technology lab. I first built a set of jigs to hold the axles in alignment while setting the preload on the bearings. Thats where the crush sleeve comes into play. I then made 2 wrenches to fit the nuts on the hub to set the preload and free play. I destroyed the first hub, even after heatring it red hot it wouldn't come apart.The second axle popped apart with no trouble and went back together just as easy. The used axle I got to replace the first acted just like the first. In the end I contacted "Axle Works" in Archdale, NC. 336-884-1455.
The owner is very up on his axles and turned mine around in just a couple of days. Well worth the money. Besides, if you don't spend that Canadian stuff it'll rust during the winter.
I haven't rebuilt my hubs-- yet, but here is a link that might be of some help.
|Aivars-Here is another hub puller design to muddy the waters. It is more sanitary, but requires machining. I don't care for the idea of using the yoke hole to prevent turning because of the pressure involved. Also on the web site is converting a carb car to PI.|
|Berry, your link is the one I was looking for - but my bookmarks are a mess!!. This puller seems to be better one of the two, but I haven't had a chance to make or use it yet. |
If the rear hub bearings do have too much play is it possible to "adjust" them? Or does the excess play suggest excess wear and replacement is needed?
Apparently this is not job for shade tree mechanic. I will be doing the UJs and thought this opportunity knocking to do the bearings. Not getting any noise from them...will have a good feel of them when assembly out. Am getting a clung in rear and while under the car this summer could feel a good bit of play in the driver side outer UJ...so replace them all.
Ha Joe, how have u been? The best to you and the Justice gang this holiday season.
|Rick: If it ain't broke, don't fix it.|
I have heard of more horror stories of attempting rear hub repair. As I understand there are 2 jobs that are near impossible for the home mechanic for the TR6...rear hubs and differential rebuilding. These are best left for the pro that has specialized tools and experience.
As I understand it is the collapsable spacer that gives the most trouble in getting the repair right.
|Rick C. Another thought--once you remove the hubs from the swing axle, spin them by hand. If they spin freely, they need to be rebuilt. You already know not to mess with disassembly yourself. I exchanged mine early this year for rebuilt units from the person who does most of the rebuilds for Moss/TRF. He happens to be 10 miles away.|
|Steven & Rick,|
OK you have convinced me. This ( and the dif) are about the only 2 items I did not disassemble during restore. Rick, maybe I have not had enough coffee this AM..I am confused. I am looking at Plate DB..page 213..(TRF).. You said "spin them by hand. If they spin freely, they need to be rebuilt". What to What should NOT spin freely?..#9 to #12? I can see these 2 should not rotate seperately....you would have "no drive" from that wheel.
|Rick C. I don't have TRF catalog handy, but hold (by hand or vise) the U-joint end of the hub and give the hub flange a spin. If good, it will not spin freely. This was counter-intuitive to me initially, but Dave Simms assured me that if it's loose enough to spin (like a road wheel on its bearings), it is worn.|
Let me know how it turns out.
|Aivars-I have adjusted my rear hubs, just be carefull not to go below the .002" endplay. Regarding the puller, my opinion, but I don't think is necessary to use acme threads-NF would probably do.|
Rick C-Why does freely spinning bearings mean they need replacement?
I have rebuilt my diff and hubs. It does require making some tools, but I enjoyed the learning experience and it is not "brain surgery".
|Hi Rick and all,|
Bearings won't make an audible clunk unless totally shot. Put up on jack stands real secure. Grab the tire try to slam in and out if you can feel or hear movement problem. Try to tip top to bottom. If it moves problem. Turning should be cold grease type of thing no gritty or funny noises. Don't mistake brake noise.
Yes it can be rebuilt by a Shadetree mech. if he's lucky and carefull 5 times out of 10. Send it to a pro if he screws up he buys the new parts.
Clunks are almost always U/Js or Diff mount pins at top? I don't remember if you did a total frame off on Mistress but where the diff pins mount at the top is brutal.
I tried your e-mail but couldn't get through. If you decide to try the rebuild, let me know. I'll send you the jig and wrenches I made and give you all the poop on the problems I ran into. The main thing is that you will need a puller that will fit the TR-6 flange. Perhaps someone reading this has one they would lend you. Our club in Wilmington has a tool/equipment swap or lend program. You'd be surprized at what some people accumulate.
Pulled the driver side axle completely out. A friend came over with his C clamp that looked like it was on steroids. Pops UJs out real easy. The outer UJ will stay in place...feels real good. The inner I felt a little movement in one of the sets of needle bearings so out she came. When I grab the inner flange I can feel about an 1/8" of back lash...no lateral movement. The passanger side ( axle still in place) I feel virtually no back lash.
Rick The flange spins like Bill said...as if the grease has gone real cold! and feels fine no movement in lateral or rotational direction. It stays as is!
Now comes the interesting ( notice I did not say fun) part. If you recall this whole exercise was to try to get rid of clunk in the rear end. Well, while I was under there, I notice that the front supports of the dif had NOT been boxed in! My UJ job has now turned into a drop the dif job. When I had the body off, I was so intent on making sure that the front suspension extra factory suppots where there that I did not have a good look at the rear. I checked for cracks but did not think ( or know for that mater) about boxing in the rear dif supports. I can not see if there is any cracks in the R Front mount so I may as well drop the dif and box the front mounts. The car is up on solid cement blocks so it stays there till the spring. I will also examine the prop shaft UJs since I am this far. Will let u know what I find.
Thanks for all the help guys.
.....email@example.com.....I have been getting so much junk e-mail that I have disguised my e-mail address in an attempt to not have it "easy to get". I must do a block on sender or "remove" at least twice a day. Who else has been offered 15% of millions of $s?? I know Bill B has.
Thanks for the offer..very kind of you but as you can see I have been talked out of it.
Best to ya
This thread was discussed between 24/11/2002 and 26/11/2002
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