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Triumph TR6 - Rear Shocks

Hello All,
Just removed my rear shocks and springs,I'm going to replace the springs and clenup the shocks. In the archives I found this link but it doees not work..
(You may also want to investigate other lever arm shock adjustments discussed here:
..anyone know of another site that deals with the shocks

They both so far appear fine with strong equal resistance, I've yet to open the top nut to check oil level
Charlie Ballard

Like I said on the "Demise of VTR" thread, I have found a pretty good search engine for dead links and best of all, unlike Google which does just the page, I have found that most of the time it carries through with the links on the dead page.

So take a trip on the Wayback Machine for your dead links:

For the particular URL in question here, the results are:

1 page from 22 December, 1999
3 pages ranging from 1 march to 16 June, 2000
5 pages ranging from 24 February to 7 December, 2001
4 pages ranging from 5 February to 4 Decmeber, 2002

You get to play pick and choose, some of the pages work better than the others, so if the first one try doesn't get you there, go try one of the others.

I noticed that in the Moss catalogue there is a part 675-065 called the packing piece that corrects camber when the springs this a needed part ??
Any one else found they were required ?
Charlie Ballard

Not really, these were primarily used for customer complaints about camber under warranty, BL part number HAC106. These bits were just a band aid and not a real fix. If your springs are truly sacked, you need to replace them as you are doing. Set your camber using the information in the Moss catalog and/or from the Buckeye Triumph tech pages.

For each side you check your rear camber and verify the type and position of the trailing arm brackets (one, two or three notches, notches up or down). Using that as your baseline, you then determine how much you need to change camber and use the appropriate brackets and orientation to get where you need to be. Odds are you will also have to fiddle with the rear toe adjustment as part of the process.


I quote from TRF catalogue.

"PLEASE NOTE: The alloy spacer listed here was designed by Jaguar_Rover-Triumph as a cure for rear wheel camber problems that were not solved by replacement of rear road springs. Be aware that this problem could indicate severe frame or suspension damage that should be investigated before this part is installed."

Not required unless you have a camber problem on a fairly new TR with botched trailing arms. You don't need.

If you have top lean out? Usually drivers?
Mail me or call if your still up or whenever.
Bill Brayford

Hey, Charlie If you require a wee drop of the original Armstrong shock juice. I just happen to have a bottle. You are in Kitchener I'm in Cambridge (H) so we are neighbours. Be glad to share if req'd.
B.R. Horne

Thanks for the offer B.R.!
I've not opened them up yet,still cleaning 29 years of grime off them !
I've noticed no problem with the rear end but I know the springs have lost tension, do I have to re-adjust the camber when replacing the springs ??
Charlie Ballard

Let me add to that previous note...As a test about a month ago I bought a set of spring adjusters at Canadian Tire for $10. they installed easy and lifted the rear end up an inch to the same height as my friends rebuilt last year TR6 and I noticed a nicer ride and handling. I did look at the rear wheels (the slight TR angle) before and after and saw no change. Will putting new springs in not be the same as the spacers ??
Charlie Ballard I want to replace the springs..any thoughts on regular springs as opposed to heavy duty ?? I know I don't want competion ones, anyone installed new springs lately ?
Charlie Ballard

Hey Charlie:

I went for the Competition Springs a couple of seasons ago. They're not for everyone, very stiff ride. I matched them up with the rear shock convertion kit (1 piece steel frame, not the 3 piece version).

My suggestion would be regardless of which springs you choose, consider getting the nylon spring bushings instead of the rubber version. You may also want to consider replacing the trailing arm bushings with the nylon replacements.
P Johnston


I am considering replacing, over winter, the original shocks for koni's or spax. I am offered a 3-piece conversion kit. There exist also the 1 piece steel version. I believe there even exist a 1-piece aluminum bracket.

Can you recommend a particular type or are you aware of advantages/disadvantages?

E. Creyghton

Stock springs work just fine for average driving.
If you can, do everything at once. Shocks, springs,
coil over conversion, and new bushings. Just think
how old all that stuff is now. Also a rear anti-sway
bar goes a long way to make the car feel and handle
the way new cars do. The one piece coil over conversion
is the best that I've seen since the multi-piece has some limitations. After everything has been replaced,
drive directly to a good alinement shop. Preferably
with someone as old or older than you running the place. That $50 -$100 for a proper alinement will make all the differance. Good luck.
Christopher Trace

Also, be prepared with spare packing shims (front and rear) when you go for the alignment.

Roger H

E. Creyghton:

If you're considering replacing the Armstrong lever shocks with a conversion kit, I would stay away from the multi piece version. It's rather heavy & awkward compared to the 1 piece steel version (mine came with spax, I have the koni's on the front). I'm not aware of the 1 piece aluminum version.

Regarding the rear swaybar, I installed the coil-over version (it was tense drilling through the rear frame, but I did it properly). Yes it make a difference, but I probably now need to "beef-up" the stock front sway-bar to even-out the drive. It's a little to skittish (not scottish) at speeds above 70mph.
P Johnston

On my rear suspension I did the following:

1. Poly trailing arm bushings

2. Rear Shock conversion using the single bracket that bolts to the frame using the existing shock bolt holes. Kit came with KYB gas shocks.

3. Rear sway bar made by "Turn Six" (Bigger front bar added to match)

4. Stiffer rear springs


My driving impressions were that the poly bushings were a major improvment over the old worn out rubber.

I removed the swaybar as it made the handling nervous and oversteer at speed.

The KYB rear shock conversion kit is dissapointing. The KYB's are a very unagressive shock with poor rebound control. It feels as if there is almost no rebound control. I'm going to change to Koni's or just rebuild the levers with the heavy duty kit.

I removed the stiffer springs - too stiff for me just cruising around.

At the end of the day, I decided I like the handling a bit softer and less agressive as I'm not racing out there.

John Parfitt
73 5 speed
Bragg Creek, Alberta

John Parfitt

I agree John, I've decided to go with new stock springs and because my lever shocks were good and I've since flushed and put fresh oil in them I've noticed they have even more resistance so I'm sure I'll be happy with the ride. My friend put the shock conversion and HD springs in his and is not pleased with the ride overall..too stiff. It boils down to what you do..I'm happy with daily driving to work, country runs and fast corners now and then ! hahaha
I know the suspension will be fine for me.
Now on to the trunnions !
Charlie Ballard

Hi Charlie,
I have added uprated lowering springs to my 73 car. I think it was a great improvement: you will feel more bumps but the lowered height really makes the car look good not to mention the handling improvement. I think you want to stay away from any uprated springs that are "stock" height otherwise you will have a car that looks like it is jacked up ie it will sit higher than the stock springs because the weight of the car will not compress the stiffer spring - it looks VERY odd and of course you lose the performance benefit of dropping the centre of gravity. I think also that there is no set rate for springs - moss performance manual lists different rates and heights for different purposes from better for street to full race - I bought mine from Goodparts -there are of course other suppliers too. I cant recall offhand what the rate is but I am happy with them.

I have added an anti roll bar like John - a Turn 6 model - I left the front bar alone and I think that modification is probably one of the best handling mods you can do. For street use you definitely want to keep the rear roll bar a small diameter otherwise you will affect the handling adversly - Addco a major manufacturer of roll bars makes a really good book that discusses at length performance handling and how to get it, considerations etc - there are of course plenty of other stuff on the web that you can find too.

This thread was discussed between 16/11/2003 and 21/11/2003

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