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Triumph TR6 - Removal of Stuck Windscreen Frame
|Anyone out there in TR6 land have any thoughts on removing the windscreen frame when it is stuck soild in the mounting brackets? The three top bolts at the cover plates have been removed, the two nuts at the bottom of the frame below the mounting brackets have been removed, the rear upper bolts on the brackets that serve as pinch bolts have been removed. A thin metal shim was run under the gasket and moved along to break the bond between the frame to body work interface. We soaked the mount pins and brackets as best we could in AreoKroil. We tried a shim and pry bar approach and only wound up doing damage to the scuttle area.|
Despite all of that, the frame will not come out of the brackets. I am open to suggestion on the removal approach. I knew it was time to stop, walk away from it and ask for help when I caught myself walking toward the tool box trying to decide between the small mapp gas torch and the cutoff wheel.
Are you having fun yet:)
The brackets the mount posts slide into should be left connected the pinch type loosened the bottom nut on the post removed.
Rock the whole window frame back to front. I do this myself standing in car. Grab outside edges of frame and rock front to back while pulling up towards the back. Just about the time you think you will never have more kids the damn thing will come loose. They have for me sofar anyway. Its a very strong assembly so don't be afraid if it.
|The bottom post nuts had been removed, the pinch bolts out, shim stock run along under the the frame to scuttle seals to break adhesive bondline. We pulled and rocked for all we were worth. It was at that point that resorted to employ a shim and pry method along with the rocking. We just wound up damaging the scuttle area. Not that big a deal as we are getting it ready to go off to the paint shop, but irritating as can be all the same. |
This thing is pretty much frozen in there. The LH side appears to be ready to come out. On the RH side, the radio antenna hole had been located just above the sleeve for that frame pin and there is evidence of some rust there. I feel this is the root of the problem. Normally I would drag out the mapp gas torch and apply a little heat, but this is in a somewhat restricted area and I was looking for some ideas on dealing with one that is really stuck and doesn't want to move without having to resort to the torch or the cut off wheel.
The fun will start when it is going back together. I have had this car for about 15 years and just drove it and did mechanical stuff to it as it was "presentable." Over the course of those 15 years, it has naturally deteriorated and I had enough other stuff apart that I decided this would be a good time for body and paint work along with interior work and such. As it comes apart I am finding a number of DPO non-standard repairs that have made life a bit more "interesting" such as expanding urethane foam sprayed into many a nook and cranny. You have to soften it up with carb cleaner so it can be attacked with a pick before you can pull the wiring harness or cable through panel. They also seemed to have a thing for room temperature vulcanizing rubber. I am finding that in some strange places and then there are the work around wiring repairs. Enough of those to make me decide that investing in a new harness was not a bad idea either. Little things like that to make me wonder how it had worked so well over those last 15 years.
Can you get a product called "Liquid wrench" there its a Gunk prod. I find works best. Give the metal a rap to set up vibration.
If the lower mounts are loose and removed can you get them off the posts? You might be able to beat a bit on the right one. If it won't even rock there is something major modified I think. The shafts are large at the top narrowing down to the bottom. The bottom is were it holds not through scuttle. Top should have some room for alignment.
If some genius got carried away with the rubber vulcanising?
Heat under there may be a bit scarey. A 00 tip on Oxy/acet. might be fine enough and hot enough not to cause damage? That would only apply to those lower mounts.
|Steve- I just soaked the bejesus out of it with some penetrating oil for a couple of days and then beat up on the stuck side with a mallet. The drivers side was stuck on mine. Suggestion ,have the frame powder coated. It looks great!!|
|As I've seen in my employer's commercials "Mission Success." |
I went back Monday night and doused the thing in a heavy dose of Aerokroil, again. I applied a preload to the the pinch bracket to help the oil get in there. Tonight it was back over to the shop. We pulled and rocked, then pulled and rocked even more. Even went as far to get someone who had pulled several of these before to help. His assessment "Wow, I've never seen one stuck in there this hard before." We tried an air chisel, nothing was even thinking about budging. It was decided that the normal approachs were just not going to work, we would have to take more drastic action.
A short philosphical discussion was held, the gas cylinder cart was then rolled over by the car and the hot wrench broken out. Following application of the hot wrench in warming mode (being careful not to do anything silly like melt the wiring harness), the thing pratically jumped out into my hands.
On another cheery note, the guy that I got the TR4A and the TR250 from brought all the spares and odds and ends to the shop today. Talk about a treasure trove of stuff. There were three IRS TR diffs, a TR4A solid axle assembly, two all syncro TR transmissions, another with an A-Type overdive (that trans is disassembled, but looks like all the bits are there), a TR4 engine, two sets of HS6 carbs, all manner of suspension bits, TR4 grilles, lots of mouldings and bumper parts, a TR3 jack that actually works, and another surrey top. No telling what else I might find as I go through this stuff.
|Steve -Going to keep the A type?|
I hate suggesting hot wrench unless I know skills of operator. Sounds like yours are good. Great you got it out.
Sounds like your in the parts business Steve
Don't you love a bonus now and then :)
|I'll probably keep the A-type since the TR250 doesn't have OD, along with the stuff that works on the TR250 and TR6. The stuff that is strictly TR4A and earlier I will probably try and find good home(s). The rear axle looks like it would work for both TR4 and 4A, I know that a lot of the internals for it fit TR3A/B, but not sure about the whole unit. There is a TR4 motor in there partially disassembled. It could be fitted to anything in the TR2-TR4A range. |
It turns out that this guy had TRs over the years going back to the TR3 and had gotten it down to this TR4A basket case and this sad, but original TR250, plus all these piles of parts he had collected during the Triumph years. It was an all or nothing, take it at that price (still rather cheap) deal, he wanted out of the TR business (he had started playing with 924/944 cars) so you had to agree to take both cars plus all the piles of parts that he had scattered about in a couple of locations. I knew that I could find room for it all between the house and the shop, so took the deal. There is one big wooden crate (about 4' x 4' x 2') that I haven't even opened yet. Like I said above, there's no telling what else I might find as I go through this stuff. Just think about the fact that he brought over another surrey top. Those things are not common and I would up with two of them out of the deal. You never know, as big as this of a pile of stuff is, I might even run across a pony..............
Steve P...2 surrey tops WOW!!! Just think , you might run into another OD and Don can try again!
|Regarding the sprayed in place expanding urethane foam - instead of using carb cleaner, you may find it cheaper to get a gallon of acetone from a hardware store and use a squirt bottle to spray it on the foam to dissovle it. I've found that it'll get all but the most hardest, densest foam to dissolve and the be more easily scraped away. |
Of course -
DON'T DO THIS UNLESS YOU ARE PLANNING TO REPAINT,
cause it may dissovle the paint as well.
This thread was discussed between 11/01/2003 and 24/01/2003
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