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Triumph TR6 - Removing/replacing Oil/Water Plugs

There are several "plugs" in the block that are cut flat with the block when removed provide access to the water jacket and/or oil galleys. Two are aluminum and at leat one is steel. To remove them, they have to be drilled out. For those of you who have overhauled your engines, did you remove and replace these plugs and if you did not how did you insure the spaces to which they offer access were actually thoroughly cleaned in the dipping or whatever process? These are NOT the allen screws that are in several locations on the exterior of the block which probably should also be removed and replaced, but on either end of the block and only accessed after it is stripped. Thanks for any comments.
db
Doug Baker

Doug, I thought you were past this already?
DON KELLY

Don,
Don't I wish! Got the engine back yesterday. Was not happy with the "cleaning" Gotta go back and talk to the guy, but wondered about other's experiences. I bought about a doz and a half of replacement plugs and he used none of them. I did not remove them all purposely 'cause he's the machine shop and I'm not!!
Anyway, some progress. This damn engine is expensive@!@!
db
Doug Baker

Doug-Here is a piece of useless triva that is stuck in my head. I remember an article in an old TRF newsletter (May 1990) that describes the aluminum plugs you encountered. They were furnished in sticks that looked like a threaded "tootsie roll". The plugs were screwed into the galleries with a pipe wrench on the unthreaded end, then sawed off and filed flush. If the engine is hot tanked, the caustic solution may dissolve the aluminum causing them to magically disappear. I don't know if TRF stocks the plug sticks, but it seems that steel or brass would be a better choice.
Berry
BTP Price

Berry,
Thanks. I got the plug sticks; one aluminum and one steel. Didn't know what the hell they were. I told TRF that I wanted ALL the oil galley plugs. They sent a bunch. Gave 'em to the machine shop. He gave 'em back w/o using them. The hot tank dip, if that's what he did, did not remove these. Didn't remove too much crud either from the water jacket to my disappointment. Had another colleague look at it today and he recommended that I just rod out the galleys and go on about it. He may be right. My question was since the machine shop did not remove the plugs and they did not come out in the wash, should I attempt to remove and replace them or just ignore them??
db
Doug Baker

Shoot the machine guy
DON KELLY

I would Don, but lately, that's frowned upon in Alabama!
db
Doug Baker

Must be a new Governor.
DON KELLY

Doug, was going thru some old e mails. Did you still want to communicate about the panel
DON KELLY

Don,
I certainly do, but am not there yet. Just let me ask this at this point...do I just run dedicated wires from the power panel to the point of execution; that is, are all the required circuits represented in the power panel or must I fabricate subordinate looms elsewhere (aside from the rear harness, of course)to connect to the power panel? Thanks.
db
Doug Baker

The rear harness is also in that mess.
Well sort of ,I guess if your not using an elec. fuel pump then maybe not.
An idea of sorts. Make a cardboard cut out of the dash with holes for the gauges, leave em empty. Pull all the wires to the point of end and leave long. After all the wires are laid out then shorten them as you feel confident.
My only screw up was with the wiper switch I cut 1 green one a little too short.

The stock rear loom comes from the brake ,reverse, from the cockpit

If I remember right you have to run turn and running lights for and aft but I might be wrong.
DON KELLY

Don,
What would be REAL helpful for a novice like me is something like...: "take the green wire with white stripe and run from the power panel along the front of the firewall to "X" where there is a grommet. Run the wire through that grommet and extend 36" into the cockpit. Terminate at the "Y" gauge with a female spade connector!!" Now that Dan is out of the business, what technical service is available for answering questions? If I recall you sited your power panel on the shelf in the engine bay right side. Seems that I recall that you fashioned a lexan or plexiglass box about the power panel to protect it from dust and etc. Good idea that I may copy from you. From that site did you run your front lights along the right side of the engine bay or did you cross over and follow the traditional path along the driver's side where the hold down clips are? Did you have to weld on any additional hold down clips? I got lots of questions!! For those who don't have a clue what we're discussing, both Don and I purchased Dan Master's wiring harness. Me, thinking I was getting an upgraded wiring harness got 13 rolls of wire and some instructions along with a prewired power distribution panel with relays etc., but you have to build the wiring harness yourself. Don has already done that so is the resident expert on installing Dan Master's wiring harness!!
db
Doug Baker

Doug, the beauty of this is there is no plans. You run them how and where you want. That's why it took me so long. I am fairly particular on how thing go.As I said lay all the wires out and think about them awhile. You will need lots of shrink tube and more connectors than you think and I bought some other multiple connector pieces after I laid it out I changed some things around.

Stuff I bought that wasn't supplied in enough quanity or not at all.

1. Bullit connectors (2-3 different sizes)
2. Metri pack multi connectors
3. Terminals for above in different sizes
4. lots and lots...and even more lots of lucar connectors.
5. about 60 extra feet of black ground wire

Just some of the work involved.It's really easy once you get going.I didn't build the Plexiglas case. Another owner did and I will try to hunt up the info.
DON KELLY

Don,
Did you get your extra parts from Dan, British Wire.com or some other vendor?
db
Doug Baker

Bought them from all over.
Mike was running the company toward the end of the install. Bought the bullets, and wire from him.the connectors I used either Del City or Waytek for. The shrink I bought local.
DON KELLY

Don,
What's a lucar connection?
db
Doug Baker

This thread was discussed between 27/08/2009 and 06/09/2009

Triumph TR6 index

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