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Triumph TR6 - repairing brakes
|Just thought I would make a couple of observations to warn others. Perhaps these things have been mentioned before but I have not noticed them. First do not bother to get just the brake lines you think will need to be replaced, get the complete set of all brake lines from Moss or Rimmer. I garantee you will need them. At least half of the fittings will be rusted together and the lines will snap apart with the least pressure. Makes you confident about the brakes if you have not touched them yet doesen't it.|
|Sorry I hit send before I was done. I am computer challenged.|
To continue, the original lines I think are all non metric but for the front disk on my car but have metric type bubble flairs. Surprise, surprise the rear t fitting from the front to the rear brakes is an inverted flair. The only one I have found so far on the car. The new line is a bubble fitting. I took the advice of Earl's in Indy and just put it together tight but it looks wrong to me. Good luck finding someone to but a bubble flair on the line for you. It is not leaking so probably is ok.
Do not even read the factory directions for assembling the clips holding the rear cylinders to the rear plate. It will never work, trust me. The only way to do this is to grease all three clips, slid the one that goes to the outside of the car on then the one that goes to the inside of the car on. Both have openings that face to the back of the car. Then slide the center clip on which faces toward the front of the car. All will clip together as it should.
|Thanks for real feedback Dick. I haven't been there yet, but will keep your experience in mind when I do.|
|Hummm... I just replaced wheel cyliders 2 weeks ago. I assembled the clips as shown in the manual, which was how they were found. The "trick" is to assemble the clips on the cylinder, THEN put in the emergency brake lever. Just a little force is needed to pop those ears into place in the wheel cylinder. The advantage to installing it in the direction as shown is that the clip then cannot come off - you could have problems if the clips fell off.|
Easiest is buying a standard double upset flaring tool. Or borrow from the parts places that do that when you buy the line. Don't buy real cheap ones just frustrating.
Mine ran about $100. Canadian and has made a lot of lines.
The girling bubble or half double upset is easy to make. Just stop at the first stage of doing a full double upset. You have a Girling Bubble in your hand. Yep you can say the S word and no kidding :)
Make sure tube cutter is sharp and inspect the ends for burrs standard ream and clean.
Any garage can make them if they work on any older cars without ISO fittings. That makes all but your Import dealer. Bet the mechanic won't have a clue though so you will have to explain.
Iso has a different angle metric and as you point out don't look right. Not sure about the guys who told you to use maybe they know something I don't but my opinion is don't.
No surprise on the front metric callipers...blame it on those Brit engineers...the only metric thing on the car from 1973(I think)on....go figure! Metric callipers are cast with a P in the part number. As you know, it is only that little short pipe from the flex line to calliper that needs to be metric and even then it is only metric on one end!!!!
|FYI heres a good article on all the different brake line types. Were found and what to watch for. |
|I just replaced my rear wheel cylinders, and figured that while I was at it, I'd replace the brake hoses.|
On the brake hoses, I got the stainless steel set from Moss, and it had the proper connection to hook up to the T on the left rear.
On the clips that hold the cylinders, I am with Dick. The biggest trouble I had was taking the things apart. My book (TR6 Operations Manual) suggested removing the inner spacer holding the brake cylinder off first, then take the spring clip apart. Maybe I am a clutz, but after mangling this spacer on the left side of the car, I tried removing the middle piece first on the right side, and found that was much easier. Putting things back together, I also put the spacer, and the spring clip that sits next to the plate on first, then slid the middle plate in last to lock things down.
...and one last comment, I love my mityvac. bleeding the brakes has never been so easy.
Now THAT'S a fact. That MityVac is a GREAT tool. I had a front brake on a bike that WOULD NOT BLEED till I bought my MityVac.
I don't bleed without it now.
|I feel very comfortable that I put the clips back in the right order and they will not fall out. I laid out my old on the floor in proper orientation as they came out. Just wanted to share my experience. There appear to be other ways than mine and factory way to install the clips. Perhaps the guy who wrote the manuel was unfamilliar with the methods on the line. |
I agree that I do not like the looks of the flairs on the rear T. However they are not leaking. I am keeping an eagle eye on them. The guy who said just tighten hard sells stuff to Indy and Formula I teams so mayby it is ok. It just was a bit of an agravation to get a "complete correct" set from Rimmers to find the wrong flairs. By the way I hope it is clear that I was referring to the hard lines. The new flex fit wiht no problem.
As to bleeding I have the MityVac and also use Speed bleeders. Seem to work well.
|Yeah - I guess I misunderstood. On the reread of your original post it sounds like the orientation of all clips is correct - you just assembled the middle clip last. No worries, & a good tip.|
Brent '73 TR6
This thread was discussed between 17/10/2003 and 26/10/2003
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