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Triumph TR6 - Replacing 30+ year old transmission fluid

My 70 TR6 has 59M miles on it after sitting 20+ years without running. I have pulled the tranny cover (original card board) and am recarpeting. Before I lay the new carpet I thought that I should replace the trans. fuid. I am pretty sure it is the original factory fluid, besides draining and replacing is there anything else I should do (flushing)and what trasmission fluid is suggested. Will have normal driving conditions. Thanks for any suggestions
Bill Kinney

I would suggest using a synthetic...they are a little more expensive but if your going to change it every 20 years then I think you can afford it!
Chip Collingwood

I would replace all the gaskets and the shifter shaft seals in the top. They are probable hard as rocks.
Don K
DON KELLY

Bill, Keep with the old mineral oil 70/90 It works and as the old saying goes (If it aint broke, dont fix It!)Synthetics are for high temps, and will find any place to leak!
Clive

Also, use a GL4 gear oil and not GL5. The GL5 is hard on the brass components inside the gearbox.
SteveP

Bill
Talk about an old subject with many an ARCHIVE.
First off do not bother with synthetic. This is especially true if you have overdrive as overdrive does not like synthetic stuff.
GL4/90 and change it every 2 years or even straight 90 weight oil. If you do not plan on removing the tranny to change oil seals front and back then expect your 6 do do a K9 thing and make its' spot.
Bill also consider the purchase of the new...well not that new...plastic tranny cover and the prop shaft cover. Well worth it. Before you put in the carpet and sound deadening foil back underlay, cut a hole in the new cover where the fill plug is for the tranny. You will appreciate this at "top up" time which will be twice/year ( assuming it leaks). I did not do this and regret it. A simple cover plate shaped from aluminium can be screwed (with a gasket) to the hole and hidden via the carpet and underlay.
Flushing? Since you have not driven the car in 20 years ( also meaning not driven it lately to do what you are doing now) then all fluid is at the bottom and could infact have dripped itself dry. It will cost you maybe 5 bucks to flush it with oil so go for it. Besides with a refill you will see if you have major drips. The easiest time to remove a tranny is where you are now.

After 20 years of sitting, your tranny is NOT your only thing you need to address. Both your hydraulic systems (brake and clutch) will need major attention. Since you will be rebuilding or simply replacing components in both systems then here you definitely want to go with synthetic (DOT 5) brake fluid in both. You CAN NOT simply flush and fill with DOT 5 though. Not sure why I said that because after 20 years of sitting you will not have clutch or brake. You will/should (IMHO) have to replace every single line and have all cylinders rebuilt or replaced.

Good luck and have fun.

Rick C
Rick Crawford

Rick, and all thanks for your input. I have actually redone all hydraulics (front discs tonight) and the 6 runs like a champ. I waited to do the interior last, and realized I probably should address the trans. fluid while its uncovered. Rick, I did decide to replace the cardboard cover w/ fiberglass I bought on e-bay and it luckily had the hole drilled for filling. I really appreciate all the info, because in a lot of cases I know just enough to be dangerous but am not afraid to give it a shot till I fulfill the Peter Principle (rising to the highest level of my ineptitude) and then its great to have this board!

Thanks Again all! Warm breezes blew through Indy last week (68 degrees) and made me realize I better step it up and get the 6 ready for the road!
Bill Kinney

Bill
If your car has overdrive it's worth replacing the inhibitor switches while the cover is off, they are cheap and one of the few things on a TR that the modern ones are better than the originals.
Ron
R. Algie

Bill, I was able to get GL4 at NAPA. They had to order it but I had it the next day. I bought a case as you never know when this stuff might go out of production.
JW BRAW

Bill
Glad to hear about the hydraulics. Did you go DOT5 here?

Just got a dumping of snow and takes a while for the garage to warm up with my big blow torch. Ready to order the lower end bearings and thrust washers.
Rick C
Rick Crawford

Went to Pep Boys and the closest they had was a Castrol Hypoy C 80W-90. Any suggestions where to find a GL-4 90 besides NAPA?

Thanks
Bill Kinney


Rick,

I think we got the same dumping of snow. I'm sick of it.

Are you going with the King Vp2's for the crank and rod bearings? What else have you done to your engine?
Is all of the machining done and ready to assemble?

I'm just waiting for the right day to continue my assembly. A 50 deg. day would be nice.

Henry
HP Henry Patterson

Henry
Yes King VP2s for both ( : http://www.bpnorthwest.com/.sc/ms/hm/1104328695745765/9/nc/ee ) , Scott Helms thrust washers
( http://users.arczip.com/zntech1/tr6.html ) and a new oil pump. The engine is still in the car so no, I have not had the crank machined. This is not the "correct" way of doing this but this is the way it is going to be done. Had a Brit friend over (he has a Spit) who has rebuit several BL engines and he said just put them in. They are all STD. size except the thrust washer. I measured .015" end float....spec is 6 to 8 thou.

Bill Kinney, Try a farm supply or a truck/heavy equipment supply. Castrol Hypoid C 80W-90 is GL5. FYI Castrol has EP 90 GL-4.
Rick Crawford



Rick,

Initially I was planning on doing just what you are. The problem I ran into was my crank was scored. A .010 grind fixed it. In hindsight, I probably could have gotten away with just replacing the bearings even with the scoring...and sometimes I wish I had. Now I also have a re-bore with new pistons and a new cam. It should be worth it...I hope. Many people have gone the route that you are with good success. No reason to do more than necessary.

Henry
HP Henry Patterson

Henry
The old saying about that hinde sight thing is so true. When doing the humpty-dumpty thing I did not do the engine thing. I started her up and ended up doing a total top end along with all frost plugs. MAN how stupid I was. At that point with head in hand... I could have done the bearings AND THE RINGS!!

But then I have an excuse... it was my first (novice)total restore. Now I have 20/20 vision. But what an experience it was!
Rick C
Rick Crawford

This thread was discussed between 19/02/2005 and 22/02/2005

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