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Triumph TR6 - Resrtoation of a classic TR6


I have a 70 TR6 with 59M original mieage. Brought it up from Alanta last year and am in the process of removing seats etc. from the interior. My question is what is the best way to clean the floorboards etc. before putting in new carpet. (should I put in an inulation kit?) I am stripping the seat tracks and refitting the floor panels w/stainless hardware but wondered if I should coat the panels with POR 15 before I recarpet after 34 years. It is cherry and I want to do it right. There is some very light surface rust on the floor boards but they are vey solid. Should they be pullled and refinished even though there is no real visble rust? I just had it repainted in a gorgeous Mimosa Yellow but the interior was not touched and is still in the origial "primrose". Also....What is the best way to "clean" and restore the underbody which has minor (flaking) surface rust on the frame? Would really appreciate any help!

Thanks, Bill/Indy
Bill Kinney

Hi Bill

If the car is that good. Por 15 works well wire brush and vac first inside. Carefull brush is best.

Bolts for floor panels can be cleaned up coated and reused if original. Better for points in a show over stainless. Seat tracks are galvenised and don't usualy cause problems before floors toast?

If the floors solid leave it alone other than coat. I don't like any type of insulation retains water and rusts open cars.

Indy has a southern climate by my standards so for the under carriage. Have it oiled. Spray the works with a new non detergent oil once a year.


Bill Brayford

Bill (IndyBill that is),

I used POR-15 last year for my floorboards and recommend it. It's stinky process if you follow all the steps properly, but a worthwhile investment. If you're looking to match the color of your car, be sure to carefully follow the instructions on topcoating. Not much sticks to dried POR-15. I wasn't concerned about color matching since the floors won't show and I'm not showing the car, so I simply used the Chassis Black that came with the POR-15 kit.

Wear clothes you don't care about as well as gloves. Once POR-15 gets on you, it won't come off (until new skin grows). You'll also need to throw the clothes away or keep them in the garage for lawn mowing and working on the car. They're no good to wear to church after coming in contact with POR15.

Good luck,

Don from Jersey
D Hasara

Bill (Doctor Bill that is)
Sorry lad, goota disagree with you.
Our cars never see winter anymore. I do not think it necessary to undercoat the frame with any oil product. I say the frame because when I had the tub off for the restoration, the frame was kept at its' original black and I sprayed the belly pan with rubberized undercoat ONLY for the purpose of prevention of stone chip. The wheel wells where also "rubberized".
IMHO Bill from Indy, I would put in an insulation material. 2 things accomplished..sound deadening and heat insulation. Bought in role at any auto supply. Foil one side, felt the other. Foil side down to floor pan obviously. An open air car should never get wet inside. If it does then the owner is not taking care of his/her pride and joy.

"Should they be pullled and refinished even though there is no real visble rust?" Not sure why you would consider "pulling" the floor pans...way to much work for pans that: "There is some very light surface rust on the floor boards but they are vey solid."

I do agree with all that after you clean the floor pan up you need to protect the metal. Your choice in colour..keep in mind you do not see the floor pan at all except at the very front up behind the foot pedals. I agree with Bill, clean up the original bolts and reinstall.
As far as cleaning the frame. A wire brush and a wire brush on a drill. Wear eye and mouth protection. Then spray with rust inhibitor primmer immediately after bare metal is visible, then anti-rust paint or paint with POR 15. The frames inside is obviously impossible to get at. There are many holes in it that a rust inhibitor can be sprayed. The underside of the floor pan: wire brush again and same process. You might consider rubberized undercoat.

Have fun
Rick C
Rick Crawford

I would add that rubberized undercoat should not be used as it eventually dries out, cracks, and allows the rust cycle to begin again. Your best option for protecting the undercarriage after cleaning it up is to spray Waxoyl. This stuff is tenacious and does not deteriorate. I have a 32 year old frame that spent it's entire life in the snow belt that proves it.

Rick O.
72 TR6
Rick Orthen

All I can say, is use POR-15 and a good top coat paint. If you plan on keeping the car and don't want any rust in that area, POR-15 works.

Thanks all, really appreciate your input. This is obviously one of those jobs you don't want to do twice!


There is a product called "Reflectix" available at Home Depot (and others) that is a foil, bubble wrap, foil sandwiched product. It is a superb and cheap sound deadener but is primarily for heat reflection.

It is 1/4" thick.

I've used it in many cars and highly recommend it.

Jim Deatsch

This thread was discussed between 30/08/2004 and 07/09/2004

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