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Triumph TR6 - Rocker cover vent
|For those of us with all our polution gear removed. Where do you dump the rocker cover vent hose? I originally ran it into the input manifold through a pcv to reburn the vapors. Then I figured that the car would run better on cleaner air so I ran it into the top of the unused carbon canister with another hose out the bottom dumping below the frame. The setup worked ok but sprayed goop under the car at highway speed and soaked the carbon grains with that nice oily cream. |
To be just a little environmentally concerned I'm going to try to make a cleanable container which can collect the condensed vapors. I'm thinking of a can that be clamped in the same location as the carbon canister, filled with steel wool (to condense the vapors). Add a in-tube, a vent and have a removable top.
|Mine runs directly into a catch tank made from a spare washer bottle - like you I do not want burnt gases contaminating the mixture. A horrible brown sludge accumulates, which I wash out every so often. The bottle is fitted alongside the brake servo. The gases escaping the top of the bottle- which appear to be devoid of droplets of oil etc. can be unpleasant as they flow into the cockpit through holes in the firewall or around the side of the windscreen. I would suggest running the gases out under the car. For me it is useful to see the gas leakage as it can give advance warning of piston failure!|
|P H Cobbold|
1/ "nice oily cream" in your carbon canister? Have you looked inside the rocker cover (through the oil filler will do)? If you have 'mayonnaise' in there, you may have a head gasket water leak, causing excessive crankcase blow-off.
2/ there should be a small wirewool chamber inside the rocker cover where the vent leaves. Has the old wool disintegrated, or is it solid with accumulated crud?
3/Like Peter, I use an old plastic bottle, but smart alloy 'catch tanks' are available. For a price, but they include proper baffles (rather than just wire wool), drain taps and connection pipes.
|Peter, good idea about reusing an old washer bottle. I replaced my rad overflow bottle last year - I wonder if I saved the old one...|
John, the mayo was only an ounce or two, gooped in the filter material at the bottom of the canister. I think it accumulated during last summers return trip from Calgary to Westport WA for the All Triumph Drive-in. Around 1600 mi. The head is clean, as viewed through the filler hole. I will do a leakdown test in the spring.
I checked some websites about those catch tanks. They seem to be installed between the rocker cover vent and manifold. I wonder if they rely on the vacuum to work correctly.
Anyway, thanks for the ideas. I'll dump the vent into a plastic bottle - is there a heat problem? - beside the rad and dump the vapors under the chassis. SC
|I replaced my hose with a K&N crankcase vent filter.|
I get a (very) little bit of drippings on my exhaust manifold (actually the jet-hot coated header), but no big deal.
|I ran a hose down to the bottom of the motor and installed a K&N vent filter at the end of the hose.|
About once every 500 miles I clean the filter.
(Hey - anyone know what happened to the 5 speed conversion post?...)
|John- Which post?|
It was a post I started about the merits of a 5 speed Toyota transmission conversion for the TR6. It turned into a long, frank and lively debate about the merits of Concours vs modernized.
It's just that I'v learned a bunch since then and have been talking with Mr. Van de Akker and am getting ready to purchase the kit etc... thought I'd post some updates.
You thread has gone to 2002 archive. You can revive it by going to top this page and click on ARCHIVE then click on 2002. Please forgive me for saying this if it is old news to you. There are some new posters to this BBS and just maybe they are not familiar with the archives and that you MUST register at this site in order to view the archives.
|I've found what appears to be the perfect solution. Sells for 65.00 US. The catch tank is displayed at http://www.speedwellengineering.com/ |
JohnD, thanks for the 'catchtank' tip. SC
Do you have one of these Speedwell catch tanks? The photo has no scale, but the tank looks very small. In the UK, MSA race reg. J20.9.2 states that the minimum size is 2litres, and THREE litres for engines over 2 litres, ie TR6s.
Two litres = a cylinder 100mm(3.5") wide by 270mm(11") tall - this tank still looks too small.
|John- Please let me know how the tranny looks|
|Don - |
Sure will. I started collecting parts (and knowlege) for the J-Type conversion of my non-od 4 speed before deciding once and for all on the Toyota 5 speed conversion.
I had collected a used J-Type, an adapter, a mainshaft and some of the electrical components. I was close to having all the components. The local shop quoted $1,600 to install the mainshaft and insisted a rebuild was neccessary to get it all back together. After spending $1,600 I would still have an unknown quantity with the used J-Type. Solution - rebuild the J-Type but not easy to find expertise and spare parts of the major pieces. I found it impossible to determine the total bottom line cost of doing a J-Type conversion.
On the other hand, I could do a Toyota conversion without involving the British Repair shop... a big plus..
I called Herman de Van Akker in California and had a long talk about his Toyota Conversion kit. He supplies a bellhousing, driveshaft flange, clutch friction disk, hydraulic clutch actuation system (optional ), speedo cable and a few other bits. The whole thing is a bolt-on project. The Toyota gearbox is just a dead reliable unit and doesn't change the character of the car one bit.
The ideal transmission is the "W58" from the 82-85 Supras with 5 speed manual transmissions. These were manufactured by Asian-Warner. It's a great manual transmission, and commonly used in non-Toyota transplants (Jaguars, Volvos). The W58 ratios are awsome - first gear is in the order of 3.285:1 and 5th gear 0.783:1
Herman said the only snag can be with "aftermarket" exhausts which could interfere with the Toyota trany. But beyond that, the whole job is a bolt-on deal. He says he currently has 30 kits in stock at around $1,200 US including the hydraulic throwout parts (a $220 option)
I like the idea of simplicity and reliability; no electrical / hydraulic overdrive that can be destroyed by driving in reverse while actuated etc.
I'm going to place an order for the Toyota kit and I'll post the results of my install as it progresses. Prices for a non-rebuilt gearbox are about $175 Canadian plus tax locally in Calgary. I'm waiting quotes on gearbox rebuild.
Following is a quote from the reply from Speedwell;
"A moulded poly container made just for this purpose. It has 2 molded-in threaded bosses for mounting, 1 fitting to connect your hose, a drain petcock at the bottom, and a snazzy chromed filter at the top. You can view it at our website."
I've ordered one of these units and will let you know the size, when it arrives. As I'm not involved in racing I don't know about the volumn rules. SC
|Is the bellhousing a bolt up operation?|
Yes, the bellhousing is a bolt-up operation.
Why not just buy a Miata?
Keep your TR6 British!
|John- I'll let you respond to that|
When I was a little boy my grandad said "this kid isn't going to own any sailboats..."
The North American TR6 is just too bloody slow and short legged.
I love the TR6 with longer legs and more horespower - then it really is spectacular....
I'm sure if I owned something fast like a Jag I'd leave her stock.
|This thread has gone way off course.|
|Catchtank arrived today. FYI it will hold 825 ml (28 fl oz US) to the inlet. Top to bottom measurement is 30.5 cm (1 ft)and 33.5 cm (13.25 in) at its widest. I would guess it will fit nicely into the clamp that formerly held the carbon canister. The filter is a reusable type, though it is not marked K+N it does resemble one. It will be a nice addition to my engine bay. SC|
This thread was discussed between 04/02/2003 and 22/02/2003
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