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Triumph TR6 - Rusty diff mount
|Me again... While I am waiting for some things to arrive to allow me to sort out my manifold hassle, I decided to continue with the rear suspension. I am now trying to remove the diff to replace the rubber mounts and clean up/paint the chassis. I don't know if either of these really "need" to be done, but as we know, that doesn't seem to matter...|
Of course, nothing is as easy as I thought it would be. I have all the nuts off, so the only thing now holding the diff to the car is one of the metalastic mounts, which appears to have rusted to the stud. I have tried spraying with PB Blaster but without any real hope of success. I have tried to pry on the top of the mount but get nowhere. My current thinking is that I can probably unfasten the bolts holding the rear mounts to the diff, and maybe get the diff out towards the front, leaving that rusty mount in place. I figure that then I can get more leverage to turn the mount and hopefully get it off. Am I delusional? As things stand, I could replace the nuts and washers, fasten the drive shafts back in place and pretend I only ever wanted to replace the rusty washers - I am concerned that I am going to break the stud and need to find a travelling welder (do they have such people in America?). I have neither the skills nor the equipment to weld - my only attempt (part of my engineering degree required me to make one attempt at pretty much everything from milling to welding) ended with the two pieces of steel I was supposed to weld together both welded to the base of the lamp on the desk, but not touching...
I suspect that heat might help, and I was tempted to buy a propane torch the other day, but given the proximity of the fuel tank, I have a horrible feeling that the story will start "so I bought a propane torch..." and end "...the firemen were very nice about it, though".
As ever, any ideas or comments would be welcome!
Try some Aerokroil. If you have none, let me know and I'll direct you to the source or send you some. It's quite simply the BEST penetrant available and will resolve rusted connections. It will not resolve dissimilar metal corrosion though.
email is dbaker04ATaol.com...do the usual.
|Thanks Doug. I found their website and called them to find a distributor - they have none, so I ordered their trial offer - 2 cans for $10.50. Not bad, and very cheap if it works as well as I hope it will!! Unfortunately it won't arrive until the end of next week, so I will have to resist the temptation to go and mess with things until then!|
I have been using the BFH liberally recently, but didn't want to mention it, since elsewhere people are discussing flossing the pebbles out of their tyres...
Where would I hit the mount with a hammer, though? I've been channelling the blows through a screwdriver (thankyou, Craftsman lifetime warranty...) but it hasn't helped with anything but my frustration so far.
First off, thank you for the good laugh.
The rubber has simply "welded" itself to the stud. Another thought is to get a very large slip joint pliers. Put it directly on the rubber and turn it. IT should turn then just drop off.
I am sure you plan to replace with new nylon mounts.
I'll assume that you are laughing with me, though I couldn't blame you (or anyone else) for laughing at me at the moment. Did I mention that the manifold hassle has put a full engine rebuild into my mind? I really need to stop taking things apart until I get something bolted back on!
I wish that it was just a matter of rubber sticking to the stud - I'd have my Stanley knife in there faster than you can say "how long has it been bleeding like that?" The stuck mount is the rear one, which is a steel tube surrounded by rubber.
I actually have a set of new rubber mounts - all the other suspension stuff has been replaced with polyurethane (or it is in the process of being replaced) but I heard that the the standard rubber diff mounts are a bit easier on the chassis. Let's remember that with me rebuilding the carbs and messing about with things up front I will be lucky if my diff ever sees more than 75bhp wheezing through - I doubt my car wil ever rip my lips off, so a mm of extra deflection at the diff will probably never cause me too big of a problem.
|" I really need to stop taking things apart until I get something bolted back on!"|
Alistair- I would remind you of an earlier thread where I say that is how I started down my slippery slope. Don't go there unless you have a sharp pair of crampons.
|Y'all surely don't give me much encouragement. I have literally EVERYTHING that has a bolt, nut, snap, rivet or otherwise is fastened to the body of my -6 OFF the car!! Don't know that I'll ever get everything back where it belongs!!|
yup, laughing with you on the floss thing.
OK so it is the back ones. Yes a steel tube wrapped in rubber. You can still try the turning it rather than trying to pull it off.....stranger things have worked.
Doug, never fear. One day you will look back on these conversations and laugh. One thing is for sure when you are done. You will have a smile on your face while driving that no one could wipe off.
|Alistair, when I removed my diff. the first time the |
situation was the same as you describe. A long pry bar between the diff and the frame is what did the trick for me, and have that jack ready underneath to take the weight, the diff unit is a good 100-150lbs. Those steel tubes were rusted solid to the studs, had to grind them off.
|Thanks again guys. I'm away on business from this weekend until late next week, so it looks like the diff will stay in place for another week at least. |
Doug (and Don) - I can see how a TR6 can very easily turn into a pile of parts (rusty diff mounts notwithstanding...). I think that my small single garage is something of a blessing, since I quite quickly run out of space with just a few things dismantled! Most of my neighbours have larger garages and seem to fill them with empty boxes - at least your garage is full of boxes of parts! I feel quite uneasy looking at an engine bay half empty, so I can only imagine what it is like to walk into the garage and see the whole car in parts. If I only had more space, more money and more time...
Since you are dropping the diff, you should box in the diff supports and reinforce the diff pins. Mr. travelling welder could do this for you in less than an hour. You know when you get that clean manifold back on the engine, that extra 1/2 hp might just do enough damage to the rear end of the car.
This thread was discussed between 13/12/2006 and 14/12/2006
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