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TR parts and Triumph parts, TR bits, Triumph Car Spares and accessories are available for TR2, TR3, TR3A, TR4, TR4A, TR5, TR6, TR7, TR8, Spitfire and Stag and other TR models are available from British car spares and parts company LBCarCo.

Triumph TR6 - Scott Helms Thrust Washer

I emailed Scott at 'sportycars@britishcarweek.org' last week and have not received a reply. Has anyone purchased his bronze alloy thrust washer recently?
Please advise contact info if different. Thanks!
B Selby

I received the contact information from Scott. if you are not familar with his thrust washer check this out http://www.britishcarweek.org/tr6.html
Worth a try I think.
B Selby

B
My 6 has his special thrust washers.
R
Rick Crawford

Rick
Thanks for your comment. I hope to get the block back today from the machine shop and then check the crank end float. After measuring the end float I am thinking that I would order so that there would be .008" EF when installed.
Did you custom order yours to fit?
Comments - Suggestions??
Thanks, Bob
B Selby

Bob,

I recommend you go for a tighter clearance, say 0.005. I put in Scott's $15 TW (0.098 thick) about 10K miles ago to give me 0.005 endfloat (which hasn't changed). I'm usually pretty good at not clutching unless changing gears (i.e., I sit at lights in neutral), which helps minimize TW wear as well as Scott's bronze alloy. I reused my old rear TW so you only need to buy one TW.

Best.

Rick O.
Rick Orthen

Bob
Sorry Bob I should have given you the link you point out as it is the link to the thrust washers.

I replaced both the washers as they where "toast". One was a standard size the other was shaved so that I ended up with 6 thou end float. 8 is too much and 5 or 6 thou is good. I agree with Rick O. If the rear is OK then just calculate the thickness you need to end up with 5 or 6 thou end float.

Yes, sitting at a set of lights one should always be in neutral.
Rick C
Rick Crawford

Rick & Rick - thanks for your comments. I am still waiting on the machine shop - we've heard that many time I bet. I'll let you know how this turns out.
Bob
B Selby

Rick:

I ordered standard thrust washers from TRF and when installed, end float was at the max of .008". I ordered the .005" oversize set and obviously two .005"'s were too tight. I used one standard and one .005" oversize for final end float of .003". This is tighter than Haynes specs. Do you think it's too tight?. BTW, the TW's in the engine were Vandervells in pretty good shape and showed little noticeable difference on the nickel/copper side. I could probably use one of those instead of the one standard to increase the end float just a tad. What do you think?

Cheers,
Bob
1976
Bob Evans

Bob E;
I do not claim to be an engine builder. I think you will probably be OK. I would leave it at the .003. With the 8 thou gap you would have been worse off that with the 3 thou.

Bob S. You are welcome. Would be nice to hear what your oil pressure is when it runs.
Rick
Rick Crawford


Bob Evans,

Just a suggestion: If you are going to use one of the original Vandervells then use it on the side that doesn't get the clutch load when you push the clutch pedal. So I guess that would be the rear most position on the block.

Both Bobs,

Are you planning on priming the oil pump/system prior to the initial start? I did mine by using a bolt of proper girth to fit in the drive gear hole and cut out a slot at the end of the bolt to mate with the oil pump shaft. I used a socket on the end of my electric drill to drive the bolt. When the bolt became hard to turn the gage showed high presssure and the system was primed. Worked great. I think I still have the bolt somewhere.

Henry
Henry


We will prime the oil pump/system in the manner you described before starting the engine.

Rick - I will let you know about the OP.

Thanks
Bob
B Selby

Rick/Henry:

Trust your experience Rick and just wanted to hear somebody else say .003" is good I guess. It makes sense. Henry: Will definitely be priming the pump/system with a drill prior to startup. Good advice from my Chevy muscle-car buddies at the start of this project. Received the head back from the shop today. Hot-tanked, Goodparts hi-performance valve springs and bronze valve guides with Teflon valve stem seals, hardened valves with hardened exhaust valve seats, shaved .60 thou and EGR port plugged. Should be nice with the Goodparts GP2 cam and am looking forward to the weekend. Will post a pic of the head this weekend.

Cheers,
Bob
1976
Bob Evans

Bob,
There was a thread quite some time ago about the direction to spin the oil pump.....if memory serves me correctly, it was counter-clockwise. Double check that with Rick O! ;)
This may have been in a very recent thread, but isn't 60 thou going to kick your compression ratio out of sight? I was thinking around 10 thou (still a stock head) to give approximately 9.5 to 1.
Anxious to see your pix.....
Rod
Rod Nichols

This thread was discussed between 21/05/2007 and 01/06/2007

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