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Triumph TR6 - Seaching for reverse.
|Why is it that after running for 20 minutes or more, my clutch seems to loose effectiveness and I cannot put the car into reverse. Currently I have to shut it down, put it into reverse and start it up again. I have replaced the seals on both master and slave cylinders; no leaks, no bubbles. ??|
Try putting it in third before reverse..and or double pump the clutch ..I have to do that the odd time.
|Bryn - Try pumping the clutch pedal rapidly and repeatedly. This should build up pressure. Then flick it into reverse.|
Bacause my TR3A gearbox has no synchro into first or reverse, I have learnt that snicking the gear shift into the second gear gate and then rapidly shifting into 1st or into reverse gear - it goes in a smooth as silk.
Try it into reverse. The moment or two in the 2nd gate causes things to become sychronized internally.
I also remember a multi-thing on this topic before. Check the archives.
Don Elliott, 1958 TR3A
|Byrn-Clutch release problems have provided more entertainment and generated more correspondence than any other area. Check out the tech articles on the Buckeye website. Many of the release problems are causd by wear in the linkage- oval hole in the pushrods and the pedal shaft. My personal opinion is that when the master cyl. dia. was reduced from .75" to .70 in 1970, the amount of travel at the slave cyl. was reduced enough to make operation of the clutch marginal. In my cars, going to the larger master cyl. cured the release problem.|
|I had the same problem. I took the linkage for the slave cylinder loose from the clutch lever and moved it from the correct middle hole to the upper to get more movement. The clutch is a little stiffer now and putting more pressure on the thrust bearings but my troubles are cured.|
|An innovative solution to my clutch problem: |
Following Berry's note, I found that there was a lot of play right at the clutch pedal. Hmmm, what to do?
I took a piece of .3" diameter rod, drilled and tapped through it using a M7x1 metric thread. I then took the push rod from the clutch master cylinder and cut it in half(!) and threaded both ends. I now have a full adjustable clutch master cylinder push rod and a fully functioning clutch system. It works like a charm! If any brave souls consider doing this themselves, be sure to use no greater than .3" rod as the whole assembly must fit inside the master cylinder. Thanks to all. Now on to that pesky horn problem.
|Bryn-If you go the route of increasing the length of the master cyl. push rod, make sure the tab on the brake pedal contacts the stop before the piston assembly bottoms in the cylinder. A person on the "other" TR6 list found he could lengthen the rod about 3/16" with out a problem.|
This thread was discussed between 14/09/2002 and 30/09/2002
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