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Triumph TR6 - Seeking Advice

Hi all: New here, and seeking some advice.
I have the opportunity to purchase what sounds like a nice daily driver 1969 TR6. (BRG no less!)
Before I go and have a gander, what are the prime suspect/trouble areas I should be on the look-out for with these cars?
I've owned a 1956 TR3 for several years now, but I don't know much about the "bad spots" of a TR6.
I'm a little familiar with their market values, and the price seems fair.

Thanks in advance,
Mike G. '56 TR3
Mike G.

Mike, Check right front diff mount pin to see if it's damaged ( big expense to fix right if mount or frame cracked). Also clutch operation, pin breaks off in release brearing cross shaft pedal goes down then has "snap" about half way down. Fuse blows for brake lights? heater switch shorts on dash frame and can melt under dash wiring. Rear alignment of wheels.
Pick up a Rimmer Bros. cataloge gives good overview of frame stess points. This is probably a good start point.

cheers Marten
M SIDDALL

Rear swing arm mounts
Bryn

Also, after you check it out, pay attention to how the car pulls on your heart strings. What does it do to your psyche? Are you able to easily get it off your mind? If so, beware. That would be about the only criteria that would have sound logical roots. You said the price seems fair so you are half way there. Others may advise otherwise but go ahead and take your checkbook.
c.a.e. emenhiser

Mike,
How about a good ol' compression test of the engine?
Do not go by oil pressure gauge when the car has been idling for only 15 MINs.
1969 TR6s did not have the dif support points beefed up with extra welded in plates. As Marten points to this area, it was a very weak point and most likely you will need to do this. If I am not mistaken, this also goes for the front suspension as well. Ask the owner if he has done this "upgrade" (receipt/proof?).The frame where the trailing arms mount is a know rust out spot (the frame not necessarily the trailing arm brackets). If the rear tyres demomstrate excessive camber (rear end squat) then expect to replace rear springs and have a very close look at the trailing arm/frame area.

See another current thread called HELP. Covers this subject.
Good luck
Rick C
Rick Crawford

Mike
If it has been used anywhere they salt the roads in winter check it for rust, they rust just about everywhere given a chance, but particularly check the chassis where Martin suggested.
Ron
R. Algie

Thank you, gents. Good advice. I also went to the VTR site and found the buying guide/values page, which contains a good amount of detail.
After some conversation it's not something I wish to persue, and the price is nearly at the top of it's value.
Thanks again.
Mike
Mike G.

We scared him off!!
Bryn

http://www.wbclassics.com/tr6bg/bg.html

This is the buying guide I wrote on a slow day last year... still not quite finished, but very in depth with excellent photos of "problem areas" especially with regard to the body and chassis.

Should help anyone with assessing the condition of a TR6 they wish to buy.

Cheers,

Kai @ Wishbone Classics
Kai @ Wishbone Classics

Kai- is it slow? You usually don't hang around this long
Don
DON KELLY

This thread was discussed between 13/04/2005 and 15/04/2005

Triumph TR6 index

This thread is from the archive. The Live Triumph TR6 BBS is active now.