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Triumph TR6 - Shake Rattle and Roll

Hi Guys
When I bought my first TR6 last August it started to shake when I got it upto about 55 mph. I thought nothing of it, just balance the wheels and mybe an alignment. Well after balancing all four tires, replacing one(out of round defect,)new tire rod ends and a thrust alignment, it shakes just as bad. They tell me that the upper ball joint is good and bushings seem tobe in good shape. What direction would you suggest I go next?

Thanks,
Ken
L Caya

Hi Ken

Can you determine if the shake is in the front or back? Does it go away when you get up to 60 mph or is it still there regardless if at 60, 65, 70?

Check the rear differential mounts. If one or more have broken free (a notorious fault with the TR6) it could cause vibration at high speeds.

I assume the person who balanced the tires took a look at the bushings. You didn't mention their condition. Also a possible source of vibration.

An out of balance driveshaft will cause vibration as well.

Any of the U joints and there are 2 on the driveshaft and 2 in each rear axle if worn could be a source.

I would check all these items and then report back you findings.

Good luck
Michael Petryschuk

Michael

They told me everything else looked good with the front suspension including the bushings.

I have only had it above 60 mph for a few seconds not enough to determine if it would deminish if I kept accelerating. I will try higher speeds and check out the diff. mounts along with the U joints and let you know.

Thanks for your input,
Ken
L Caya

Michael, just got the car down off the lift, what I found was the sliding spline on the left rear wheel drive shaft was very sloppy. I'm thinking under a load it could spin out of balance.

The shaking did deminish from 65 to 70 mph, but still there at a higher frequency and not as rough.

I decided to change that shaft and its "U" joints and see what difference it makes. I noticed that the drive shaft on the right sside has already been change by the PO, looks fairly new with uprated slide.

I'll let you know the results.

Thanks,
Ken

Just
L Caya

Hi Guys

After changing the half shaft, the shaking has gone away, there is a minor shimmy left but so little I would attribute it to wheel balance, it is very minor and at the momment I'm very aware of any little shake. So I'm going to call it fixed and move onto the next project.

Thanks for all your input,
Ken

L Caya

Glad to hear Ken. Enjoy the ride. What is the next project?
Michael Petryschuk

Michael,

Well, the next project is to repair two of the six studs that broke loose from the tailing arm.

As I was tightening the half shaft one stud would not tigehten at all and the other broke free with very little pressure.

Is it adviceable to but Heili Coils in to repair the threads, is the wall thickness for the two lower studs (the once that came lose) sthick enough?

Your thoughts on repair.

Ken
L Caya

There is a kit out that fixes that It uses better than heli's and uprated studs
DON KELLY

Don: that would be Keen-serts you are referring to would it not? From what I've seen on-line and read they are superior to Heli-coils but I have no complaints with my Heli-coil trailing arm repair using Rick Patton's jig kit.
Cheers,
Bob
Bob Evans

Used them on the 3.5 block in my Wedge in a couple of places.
They are beefier than the heli's, but I always say.
Use what you feel comfortable with.
DON KELLY

Don,
What kit are you refering too?

Ken
L Caya

Keen Serts
http://www.mcmaster.com/#threaded-inserts/=c9fn0q
DON KELLY

Thanks Michael, Don and Bob for your input. If two heads are better than one, then forums like this are invaluable.

Ken
L Caya

KEn, did you check into Rick Pattons TA stud fix?
DON KELLY

Yes I did.
I'm in the process of checking the second wheel to see how many studs need repair. I'm not sure it would be required if only one stud on a wheel needs repair.
$59 is a little steep for a fixture for one stud, but makes alot of sense if you need to replace several on a wheel for proper alignment. For one stud I will rig a jig to keep my drill perpendicular.

Ken
L Caya

That's the beauty of his kit. Comes with the jig. If you had a couple with problems I would change them all. They are a weak spot
DON KELLY

Ken:
Don's right. Do 'em all. That's the advice I was given here when I first inquired and it's very good advice. No more worries, period.
Cheers,
Bob
Bob Evans

Don/Brent
Thanks for the advise. I will be inspecting the second wheel and then decide, at this point I only have one to do.

If I do them all would you recommed changing to a course thread or to a 3/8 stud?

Ken
L Caya

Naw, not really, Kind of changes horse in the middle of the race deal
DON KELLY

This thread was discussed between 25/04/2011 and 13/05/2011

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