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Triumph TR6 - Soft Top

Hello All,
Just got back from a 3o mile morning drive in the country back roads...sun shining,blue sky,top down, heater on.. ( a bit chilly @ +2) car ran great ! Too bad I'll be putting her away next week-end!
Regarding the padded strip on the top that meets the window on both doors...mine tends to fall back flat against the top but I find it does a better seal if it is bent forward and presses against the glass but I can never get it to stay there..even after being in the sun for a few hours it always falls back. Since I use it as a daily driver I sometimes had to put the top up ( aghh ) when they called for rain.
The top is only 3 years old..anyone else have this problem ? ideas to correct / I thought of stitching it forward but I think I'll wait to see what the group comes up with.

Happy Motoring !

PS Bill...I can stop over on Sun the 16th if you think you'll be at the shop?
Charlie Ballard

Trying to change the subject, I though I would respond to your lonely posting:)
Mine lays flat against the glass when top is up and windows up. This , I am sure, is the way it is suppose to be....keep rain out an noise down:)

The part of it that I do not understand is the "extra" length of the flap at the bottom. If left to dangle then as you close the door it gets wedged in the door jam. I suppose in your case, it might help to hold the flap agains the glass (if you wedge it in the door jam). I flip this extra flap up and in so it is not wedged in the door jam....if I do the wedge, it makes the door harder to close and I do not want this.

I am not sure how you would stitch it to stay out. I am sure you have looked at this though and is an option. Also, maybe when you stow the top if you flipped the flap the wrong/correct way (if you catch my drift) you might "train" it to lay flat against the glass.
What do others do with this "extra" flap??

Now if we could get our heaters to actually do something.....
When I got my 6 certified after the restore, the guy says " your defrost" ( properly know as the demister) "is not working properly".
Soooo, what do you want me to do about it? complain to the manufacturer?
Rick C

P.S. Charlie, my touk is off to you:) but then you have a wind deflector and probably had the windows up.

Rick Crawford

Hey Rick,

You shouldda tole him to FIX it if it bothered him. <G>

My demister works just fine, thank you very much. One of these days though I've got to tear that blower motor out and quiet it down. sigh.


Jim Deatsch

Sorry heater / defrost system is great...I'm always turning down the temp. It really belts out the heat and I recall my TR4 ( many years ago)was also good.
Thanks for the info
Charlie Ballard

So how come mine pumps out very little air. I get a lot more air obviously when the skuttle is open but then we all know that is cold air coming in and only at speed. The motor is working at 2 speeds...there are no air leaks in the hoses. Do you close some of the eye balls when in demister mode?
Maybe I do need to complain to the manufacturer:)
Rick C
Rick Crawford

To overstate the obvious...

Have you unhooked the hoses at the heater box to see if there is good airflow there?

I guess we can do that in the shop since we don't really care if it's warm air at this point.

Get the goose to help when I send him back up.

Jim Deatsch

Rick--Your airflow problem could be due to an obstructed heater core (technically referred to as crap on the fins). Over the years, dirt or debris can accumulate there and block the fan's output.

Rick O.
Rick Orthen

No I have not... a good idea. During the restore the heater box core was pressure tested and the motor bench tested.
I will get the down filled parka out:)

Maybe a D$%^ goose layed an egg or 2 in the heater hoses.
Rick C
Rick Crawford

Rick O
Seeing our posts where 30 seconds apart, I respond. The core was in good shape and it was clean. I gave it a coat of anti-rust paint. I will have to get my hand up under there a feel more closely for any air leaks..but do not think I will find any.
Rick C
Rick Crawford


Have you checked to see if your fan motor is running backwards?

Doug Campbell

Very good question. I question wether this is possible or not. I do not think the squirel cage can be mounted backwards (the cage was mounted to the motor) and I would have had to really work at reversing the wiring. I do not think changing the wiring to the switch would reverse the motor????? When I bench tested the motor I only determined high and low speed wires. I did not even think about direction. Ha Bill, if you happen to have your motor out, can you determine if the cage can me mounted backwards? MAN!! if this is it, I will have something to say about DPOs.

Sorry Charlie for this thread going in a different direction.
Thanks Doug
Rick C
Rick Crawford

You have a squirrel cage blower? Mine's just a plastic fan.

Rick O.
Rick Orthen

I believe the original is a conventional fan and if it's running backwards that would account for it. (Is that why Wisconsin still sees geese flying north?)

I've seen some replacement fans claiming to perform 60% better than original. Squirrel cage fans usually depend heavily on the enclosure to proper move the air. In another car I saw performance degrade significantly when the squirrel cage fan was only about 1 cm smaller.

Assuming yours is one of these upgrades, is there any surrounding ductwork? It may have been improperly installed. It is easy to miss-wire the fan (I blew a fuse on my first attempt.) The switch also has many more connections than are used.

My '71's heat works good after a clean and rebuild I did last spring. Demister is fair.

EC Smith

I think I have found the problem. Yes it is a squirrel cage not a fan blade. did not know much back then...thought it was OE. Charlie, probably lots of room around it so probably just doin' a nice job at going around and around and.......
Now what was it I was going to say to the DPO!
Thanks guys.
Rick C
Rick Crawford

Hi Charlie

Mine always did the same thing. The fellow that did mine pointed out right away that it would.

The center bows I'll call them he had to keep tight to make the top of the car look nice. But because of wear in the pivot area's and rivets the back above window and back rear edges weren't as tight as the top. He showed me as it went up. Then pointed out all the sloppy rivets and one pivot point that was almost worn through. If the back won't hold tight the arch flips up. That also applies to yours RickC flap should stay level if the rear inside is not flexing in and down.

Later I went over all the rivets top loose and some had an 1/8 inch of slop if not more. Had I ever lubed them nope. Have I fixed it yet. No but thanks for reminding its now on the list. There goes 2007....:)


Bill Brayford

I've got a similar problem with the 76 TR6 which I just bought this summer - in my case the defroster works really well ( both fan speeds work although fan is quite loud ) but I get hardly any hot air down in the foot wells on either side .
Does anyone have any ideas about this ?
Also , to change the subject , the car runs hot and I'd like to install an electric fan as a 'puller' set-up and remove the original unit .
Any comment about what brand or diameter ? I see Moss are offering a 14" unit which can be installed as either a ' pusher ' or 'puller ' ? Thanks for your input . Roger .
Roger Clarke

Roger, et al,

I have noted those of us who have real or perceived temperature issues with our cars.

I have done extensive research with my car. It is stock except for the SUs as many of you know. It also has overdrive (which doesn't help much in slow traffic).

Now. My car never overheats. It never runs hot. It runs in the middle of the stock temp gauge which is just under 170 degrees. I know this to be a fact since I have probed the coolant temp on more than one ocassion with more than one, quality thermometer both digital and analog.

Admittedly I can see it run slightly warm if it's 90 degrees and I am just putting in slow traffic. Not much, but just slightly above the center of the gauge.

If a 6 runs hot there's a reason and I submit that it wouldn't hurt to investigate things like sticking thermostats (running without a thermostat does NOT make the engine run cooler) corroded impellers on water pumps, restricted coolant passages in heads, and so on ad nauseam.

And there you have my diatribe for the day.

The only caveat is that the air is thinner up there nawth of the border so it ain't got as many oxygen molecules so it ain't coolin as well. Must be that metric thing.

Jim Deatsch

Yep, Roger - Jim's on the money with that, even though he probably used poulty pop-up thermometers for the readings.

If your TR is overheating easily an electric fan won't solve the problem. Been there. First you need to get a good commercial cleaner and FLUSH the system. Do it twice if you get dirty water out. Maybe even 3 times. Then look into the radiator - is there ANY crap fouling ANY tubes you can see? There should be none - that's going to be a general indication of the cooling passages in the block/head.

If you don't know what thermostat is in the engine, change it. You can increase the water pump capacity by shortening the length of the studs that protrude into the volute, and you can also plug the by-pass hole in the housing under the thermostat. From then on only use distilled or deionized water in the radiator (with the appropriate antifreeze, of course).

Brent B

I Also run with a bottle of "water wetter" in the cooling system. Suppose to make car run a little cooler. Roger consider the age of your rad. Maybe a recore is in order.
Rick C
Rick Crawford

This thread was discussed between 10/11/2003 and 27/11/2003

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