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Triumph TR6 - Spin-on Oil Filters
|Should I convert to a spin-on filter? Sure was hard to work with the canister the last time. What is best?|
|matter of preference, I like mine.|
There was recently a discussion on the 6-pack list about this very subject. You can get on through the 6-pack website www.6-pack.org
I would go the route of the spin on. Easier to change and oil stays in it when engine shut off. The oil cooler is your choice but maybe you should consider it given your latitude. Tried to go to 6 pack but looks like paying members only site. Did the register thing but no answer yet. Mike, I thought I would get away with the wedge comment....you sneeky devil you.
|I agree with Rick C. and others that the spin-on conversion is the way to go. Depending on your climate, you may want to consider adding one of the four row oil coolers in the future, so make sure the filter adapter has been drilled and tapped for the cooler hose connections.|
Also, you should be careful with your oil filter selection, as discussed at the following URL:
I use a Motorcraft FL400S filter on my TR.
|Spin-on filter is defintely the way to go. Be careful with installation of the adapter. Make sure you remove old innner O Ring that may get stuck in engine block. Some adapters come with different thickness inner O rings. Be sure to use the one that most resembles the one that came out of the block. I installed mine hanging down with a slight angle forward to clear the clutch slave cylinder.|
As an added bonus, save the outer O ring from the canister. It is a perfect replacement for the o ring that holds your mirror in place on the outside bullet mirror.
|I installed mine last summer and am very satisfied. The biggest benefit is that is appears to take about half as long to build oil pressure using just the starter (no choke) at start up thanks to the anti-drain back valve. I'm using Redline 10w-40 and Mobil 1 filters. My adaptor came w/ two different inner O rings and a piece of mastic that you placed in between the mating surfaces to see that you are getting a good seal...if not, the thicker o ring is used.|
|OK, I installed the oil radiator kit and can't seem to get the hose connections at the oil filter adapter to stop leaking. I even put Permatex #2 on the threads. Anyone been through this exercise before?|
If I look back in history did you drill/tap the holes or did you replace adaptor with pre drilled/taped holes? A Leroy on that old archive (Oil Cooler)was going to do the drill/tap also. "Space to Leroy?" If you DIY, maybe these adaptors do not like to be drilled/and taped by us doityourselfers? Not having seen hoses or a factory taped adaptor, do the hose connections require a seat (like brake fittings)? Are they a taper threaded hole on the factory adaptor? If new adaptor then sorry Rick ..not sure.Rick O this is going to play havoc on your oil pressure (sorry..just a joke).
|Rick C. No, I took the high road and ordered the official 'Mocal' kit from Britain. The oil filter housing came with the fittings already inserted into the respecitve IN/OUT bosses. The leak is where the hose attaches to the threaded fittings. Talking about marking your spot!!|
I think I know what u talkin bout. The oil filter adaptor has 2 threaded M/M inserts (the threaded fittings). THIS is where the hose(s) thread onto and THIS is where your leak is...Yes? Me thinks I am up to speed now. What about plumbers tape? What about the hose end connectors..they must have some sort of seat/flange in them...squarely faced to the fittings mating face while tightening? Is the leak in (through) the mating threads or is it where the nut goes over the pipe? Can the nut be pushed up the pipe a bit to look at the seat/flange? Check to make sure you have not "crushed" an area of the seat. Good luck Rick O
|Thanks Rick C., you have the picture now. Plumbers (teflon) tape is incompatible with hot oil and will dissolve. The Permatex #2 is supposed to work with this situation. It's such a pain getting at these two fittings, which is why I posted to see if there is something I did wrong before I got into it again. Perhaps I didn't let the Permatex set up long enough before I refitted the nuts on the housing. Plus, I'm coming off a fresh rebuild and the oil pressure is close to 100 cold, which may be pushing the sealing a bit. Thanks again for your interest! I'll repost when I get out of this mess for good.|
This thread was discussed between 21/11/2001 and 14/02/2002
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