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Triumph TR6 - Spring Compressors

Anyone have a set (or one) of either internal or external spring compressors that I might borrow? Carriage to and from of course, and reasonable remission of appropriate rental fee as negotiated:) I'm getting to the point soon, of getting the suspension off and am loath to do myself in over the lack of a simple tool, but since it's a one time use, also reluctant to purchase one. Thanks.
Doug Baker

You know Doug . I've never used a spring compressor. I just let the floor jack do the work. Of course some call me crazy.

Go down to Home depot and get some ready-rod with nuts and washers to fit each end. A larger washer might be needed on top, and a bit of fabrication on the bottom to make a plate fit between the studs the shock brackets bolt to. If you saw the compressor I used (borrowed from a guy here in Boise) this would make sense, so here's the link to the Roadster Factory tool....
Copy and paste.... let me know if that helps....

P.S. send pictures of the progress, I want to see how it looks!
Rod Nichols


I just re-built the front end of my TR 6 and did not use a spring compressor.......there is no need. Even the TR6 manual discusses the procedure with out the use of a compressor. Basically the spring pan when dropped all the way down restricts the spring from coming out. By loosening the pan nuts it will drop a little more allowing you to simply pull the spring out.
Rather simple actually. Good luck!
Jeff Shirhall

Thanks guys. There is no end to my ignorance. I believed, from my reading, that a spring compressor was essential to save life and limb when removing and installing the springs. I'll check the manual and Rod, thanks for the link. I'll get some photos soon, but still not much to see.
Doug Baker

Doug-In looking at my Haynes manual, I noticed that a spring compressor (threaded rod) isn't mentioned in the disassembly of the front suspension, but is recommended for re-assembly.
Berry Price
BTP Price

I took the front springs in and out a couple of times using Rod's method. Tub was off but could be done with tub on. You will need a very large washer at top when the shock is out. Also when going back in, I had long bolts in the lower A arm pan. As the pan and A arm came together, the bolts helped them align much easier and putting the nut and bolts in was a breeze. Keep a good amount of grease on the threaded rod so the nuts will turn easier. The top nut does not get turned ...just the bottom one when compressing or uncompressing the spring. I suppose it does not matter which nut gets turned. I just found the bottom to look safer to turn.
Obviously there is caution in doing this.
Rick C
Rick Crawford

Hi Doug I changed all my springs last Spring. I borrowed the correct tool from a mechanic when removing and reinstalling them. The problem we had was the tool was a bit large for our springs It would have probobly worked better on a larger car (american) We managed to get it to work but there was very little clearance especially reinstalling them. this was on a complete body off so there was nothing in the way. I like the threaded rod idea and would definitly check it if I were to do it again (not!) Regards John
John O'Meara

I recommend the threaded rod. I used a couple of leftover ends of 2X4 wood on the bottom with a hole for the rod (fender washers to distribute the load). You'll still need (?) a floor jack, too. It's not much fun to disassemble because of the usual corrosion, but assembly is pretty easy. It's nice to know all your parts are painted, looks nice even after you go through the first few puddles.

Be safe, it's usually the unexpected things that hurt you.

This thread was discussed between 03/04/2006 and 05/04/2006

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