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Triumph TR6 - Stainless steel bolts.
|Before you all start, yes most of you chaps are 1,000's of miles away for the UK, but I'll ask anyway :-)|
When I was into Rover V8s I purchased a set of stainless bolts for the engine, every fastner. Loads of intrest, I got some stock in from the local mnufactures and sold engine kits - good money for beer at University!
Anyhow, where do owners stand on none original stainless bits and pieces on TRs?
I've just stripped all the interior from my 71 and looking at the centre console bolts, I have decided to fit stainless cap screws, hmm. That's the two above the radio and the four that bolt through into the chassis.
Basically it's as cheap to by 10 sets as it is to buy one, stupid if you ask me! So do you guys reckon anyone would be up for them?
Cost - 2ukp set.
When I was restoring motorcycles, I used only N.O.S parts except when it came to stainless steel fasteners. My bikes took first prize and enthusiasts acknowldged the extra expense I incurred to ensure my restoration would hold up against corrosion etc. I struggled a little with substituting Allex (hex key)heads, but it was usually an improvement and made maintenance/repairs much easier. I've just purchased my first '76 TR6 and although I can't afford to do a full stock restoration, I do plan on converting to stainless. Having said all that, from what I've read on this board, some enthusiasts here might not agree with my two wheeled buddies. It seems that "over restoration" may not be acceptable to those who are ribbon chasing.
|From 1987 to 1990, I did a complete body-off restoration of my TR3A. I put in $750.00 (Canadian) - about 350 Pounds Sterling or $500.00 US - worth of stainless stel nuts and bolts, everywhere except where Grade 8 bolts were required for strength.|
In 12 summers, I have driven "TRusty" over 70,000 miles - but I still go for ribbons too. I enter at least two National concours a summer and get 93 points out of 100 (TRA) and 384 out of 400 (VTR). I lose points for the stainless bolts that are so visible, but I like it that way. I had so much trouble getting the originals off that I don't want any of those problems any more. It only takes me an hour to get all the front valance off.
It's well worth it.
Don Elliott, Original Owner, 1958 TR3A, Montreal
TR Register member since 1987
|one place I would not put ss fasteners would be the exhaust manifold to the downpipe, brass is better as it will never rust nor react with the two metals in contact (cast iron and mild or ss steel). You will alway want to be able to undo these bolts and since they are in a awkward place ease is the name of the game.|
One final point is that you make sure the ss fasteners have the same rating as the bolts that you are replacing, it is false economy/safety to replace a grade 5 or 8 bolt with a ss bolt rated as 2.
|First regarding the specific application for the dash support. I would not be too concerned with the upper bolts, but the lower ones are in a more vulnerable and potential moisture rich environment since they are under the carpet. They are pretty much non-structural, so just about any stainless fastener would be fine. However.......|
One has to be careful in the selection and use of stainless steel hardware or corrosion resistant steel (CRES). There are several varieties of stainless out there with yield strengths that range from just about that of 6061 aluminum and ultimate strength in the 100 ksi range (of course these have something like 25% elongation so the failure is more akin to to a taffy pull) to well over 150 ksi yield and 200 ksi ultimate. Then there is the issue of galling. To minimze the potential for galling it is better to have two different CRES alloys or heat treats with a difference in hardness. In a shear loading application have the bolt harder than the nut for example. Best advice is to know the alloy(s) in question and know their properties. Probably the best all around CRES fastener out there at semi-reasonable prices is A286 in the 160-180 ksi condition.
All in all, for the most part I think you are just as well off using a good cad plated steel fastener for most applications. The cad plating acts as both a lubricant since it is a soft metal and as a protective film on the fastener. I definite agree with using the brass nuts for the exhaust application over CRES fasteners or any type of steel for that matter. I also advocate the use of anti-seize coatings on those exhaust bis too. They will stay on if you properly tighten everything and come back off when you them too.
At this point in these car's life, they typically receive a level of care far greater than that ever envisioned by the factory and I dare say that many are in better shape now than when new because they have been taken apart and reassembled with care. They typically see relatively low miles and in the "better" weather conditions because they are not used as daily drivers. As a result, getting those fasteners out next time, if there ever is a next time, would likely be easier than removing a fastener that had been in place for twenty plus years, survived a cross ocean trip and years of use as a daily driver.
I thought I was up on most fasteners. I take my hat off to a Master.
You realise though you are now the man?
I agree completely large jar anti-seize works for me. Use stainless for bright work and trim only. Body bolts as Don points out are OK to. Just always pay attention to your ratings.
Locktite blue removable will work as a anti rust as well as an anti shake.
This thread was discussed between 19/01/2003 and 20/01/2003
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