MG-Cars.net

Welcome to our resource for MG Car Information.

Recommendations

Parts

TR parts and Triumph parts, TR bits, Triumph Car Spares and accessories are available for TR2, TR3, TR3A, TR4, TR4A, TR5, TR6, TR7, TR8, Spitfire and Stag and other TR models are available from British car spares and parts company LBCarCo.

Triumph TR6 - Starting Over

Fellow enthusiasts:

Last summer I became a reader in order to "assist" my daughter in an effort to reclaim the seats in her 76 TR6.This was a successfull operation with the able assistance of Charlie B. who lives in my town. (Thanks again Charlie!)
Daughter lost interested and pressed me to take ownership this fall. Car has been idle for about 4 years other than short runs of 4 or 5 Kilometres each year.

Since her husband was looking after vehicle, and has now left for parts unknown, I have no maintainence records.

Should I consider changing all tranmission, differential, and coolant fluids? I am going to have the thrust washers checked, but welcome any suggestions you may have.I don't wish to cause any unnecessry damage
Engine has 35,865 kms and seems to run ok and oil and temp guages do not indicate any problems.

I have topped up gas tank each fall and added stabilizer for her but wondering if I should drain tank anyway and start fresh.

I'm somewhat handy, but have read many of the archives and you guys are the experts. I appreciate any advice you have to offer. Regards, Paul Dawson
Paul Dawson

Hi Paul

If you don't know when they were last changed, it would be easiest to just change them now and start afresh.

In priority engine oil& filter and coolant. My original manual only indicates to top up the oil in the differential and transmission- there is no recommended replacement interval but I changed mine when I rebuilt the car in 2005 and now have 20000 miles on them.

Top up oil in carburetor dampers

I don't think I would worry about the thrust washers with 35K km on it. I seem to remember reading somewhere but I don't remember exactly where that engine tear down and bearing inspection every 60000 miles.

Change the air filters.

Grease U joints if equipped with grease nipple (2 on driveshaft, 4 on rear axle. Grease front end ball joints and steering trunnion

I wouldn't worry about the gas. use it up - it should be OK if you have been putting in stabilizer.

Check and adjust as needed the valve clearances.
Clean and regap plugs or install new.

Check brake pad and shoe wear.

I am not too far from you either (live in Georgetown work in Cambridge) and would be more than happy to drop by and discuss further.

I expect I will be putting the insurance on mine for the weekend after this one and could drop around with it.
Michael Petryschuk

Hi Michael

Thanks for the quick response! Have seen your name numerous times in the archives.

Am just realizing that some of your suggestions have already been done. (oil change,brake inspection,plugs cleaned and regapped) However I will need to attend to the others.
Another question has just come to mind. I read somewhere that british sportscar owners should add a zinc additive to engine oil as oils produced after 1990 can cause extra engine wear due to lack of zinc and other additives that these older engines require.
Have you ever heard of this?

On another note, I would much appreciate your dropping by as I have several other questions that are looking for answers!

You can reach me at home 519-895-2461
cell 519-505-0457

Paul Dawson

If you are going to change the fluid in the dif, remember there is no drain plug and you might need a new gasket.

Rob
rw loftus

Hello and let me chip in. Zink or ZDDP is definitely needed in old engines. The engine oil you use should be a classic car oil 20-50 with ZDDP added. Modern oils do not have this,so they are unfit for our engines.
Another word of caution. Since the wedge is standing for a long time, all oil drains back to the sump leaving mating surfaces bone dry. When you attempt to start the engine some time elapses until lubrication reaches every part. This is a very good reason for premature engine failure. In order to avoid this mark where the rotor in the distributor points at and take the whole assembly out. Use an old scredriver or a piece of tube metal to engage the oil pump and turn it fast on the drill UNTICLOCKWISE. When you feel resistance on the pump it starts to lubricate and you can see the oil pressure gauge climbing up. Put the oil pump drive at the original point,fit the distributor back and fire her up.
Kypros Christodoulides

Hi: New thread, on a "72 TR6 with dual exhaust down pipes that are now S.S. is it possible to remove the main driveshaft without having to remove the exhaust. Looks very tight to me.

Thanks Trevor Stock
T.S. Stock

Hi Paul,
Are you bringing the car home to Kit ? ...Give me a call and we can meet up for a wee dram and check it out
Cheers
Charlie
Charlie B.

Hi Rick and Kypros:
Thank you both for your timely comments. They are much appreciated by someone who is learning quickly!
Hi Charlie! I'll give you a call tonight.

Warmest regards to all
Paul
Paul Dawson

Trevor

I don't think you can from below but you can always try. You may be able to pull the drive shaft through the top (remove transmission cover) but you will have to still unbolt the rear drive shaft flange attached to the differential from underneath. And you will have to pull the console, seats, carpet, etc. Sounds easier just to remove the exhaust.
Michael Petryschuk

Hi Paul

I will give you call probably next week - I am out of town this weekend.
Michael Petryschuk

Hi Michael

Sure, give me a call whenever. Am semi-retired so am available most anytime.

Thanks, Paul
Paul Dawson

Do not underestimate the weakness of the TR6's thrust washer configuration. The stockers are just copper faced and if a PO had his foot on the clutch during red light stops it will really prematurely wear on it. If the TW goes it's a BIG DEAL (ask me how I know!) With the car standing still and not running have someone push in on the clutch while you look at the pulley/dampener on the front crank, any forward movement more then the thickness of say a finger nail and I'd drop the pan and check them. The pan drop and TW change is far too easy on this vehicle to put it off if your in doubt. A good rear solid bronze TW is about $30 and the pan gasket is another $8, total time from lift up to start car is about 2 hours....easy task. Any noticeable drop in RPM with clutch in and difficulty putting in first gear from a stand still...drop the pan.
JT White

Hi JT White:

Thanks for your advice. I have read about the thrust washer weakness on the Triumphs. I'm not going to ask how you know as I think I already have the answer!

Just returned to the land of ice and snow after 5 weeks in your great State! Time to think about some "top down" driving.

Thanks again for you comments.

Best regards, Paul
Paul Dawson

Paul- There is a pretty easy measurement test for this and can get the needed dials cheaply
DON KELLY

Hi Don: thanks for your advice! I have done a search of the archives but have come up blank re measurement tests for worn thrust washers. Can you offer any further guidance on this issue?

Best regards, Paul
Paul Dawson

This thread was discussed between 01/04/2013 and 16/04/2013

Triumph TR6 index

This thread is from the archive. The Live Triumph TR6 BBS is active now.