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Triumph TR6 - Starting the restoration
|Hello everyone, it looks like you have a good bulletin board going here. I just started a complete frame off restoration on a 1975 TR-6. I have absolutely no idea what I was thinking when I started this project but there's no turning back now. I'm in the process of just tearing it apart to get the body off the frame. I hope that's a first good move, but I have a couple of questions. What is the deal with removing the windshield from the body. It appears to have only two long bolts on the sides and three small attachments to the crash pad. All have been removed but I can't get the windshield off. I think it's a little rusty. Any ideas on special tools or leverage points to pry that baby off or am I missing something? Likewise, there seems to be two shop manuals for sale. One from Haynes that looks like a repro of the owner's workshop manual and one from Bentley that seems to have a bit more. Any suggestions on which one? One last thing, thanks for the tips on removing the dashboard knobs, that was killing me. Thanks so much for any replies.|
First welcome to the forum. Second join up, it's free and will also give you access to the archives, where there is a vast amount of information that you will be needing for you endeavor. It sounds as if you are ready to remove the windscreen, but it will probably need a little brute force to break the years of corrsion that has built up in the mount. When I removed mine a few years back, I soaked it down good in penetrating oil and let it sit a few days. A good rap with a mallet ( a small peice of 2X4 wood works wonders here ) and it broke loose. Just a note; 2 of the 3 TR6's that I have owned, I purchased in boxes from the previous owners that had started a major restoration and had either lost interest or lost the perservence to complete it. I have found that if you go hard and heavy on the project at first, you will burn out before it is complete. Pace your work - slow but steady. It also will help to space out the outlay of money over a little longer time period. This will also keep the peice at home with the MRS. Good Luck !
|Hello Arnold and thanks for the good advice. I'll try the penetrating oil and I'm trying to become a member just not sure how. I signed up but it might take a little while to show my registration. I hope that this pile of nuts and bolts doesn't get boxed up and sent to Florida to become your fourth TR project. Good words of advice about the patience. I know that is the key but I only have 12 years until my son goes to the prom. My wife thanks you for your wisdom and has a list of house chores I can do while the oil is penetrating. Any advice on which shop manual? By the way, what part of Florida do you live in? I use to live in Cocoa Beach, Pensacola, Palm City, and West Palm. Just trying to figure out how to get back to good ol sunny FL. Thanks again, I'm sure I'll have many more questions.|
|Usually the penetrating oil, mallet and wood application will do the trick. Once broken loose, it is then a matter of pulling it out. However, on occasion you run into one that is really stuck (such as the one on mine). We tried over a week of penetrating oil, the wood and mallet application, tugging until we though our guts would fall out, etc. It just would not budge from the the RH side. Then one night, we decided we had just about enough of it.|
Since we were pulling everything out anyway, we got everything out of the way and brought over the "hot wrench" aka a gas welding rig. A little application of heat to the offending bracket later and out it came. If it comes down to that, you should be able to accomplish the same with something along the lines of a BernzOmatic propane torch. We just got caught up in that whole "too much of everything is just enough" trip and went with the ox-acetylene unit.
As for prying points, best suggestion I can offer is not to even think about it. If you try to pry or taper shim it out, odds are high that you will damage the body work. If you are doing a restoration, then any damage would be repaired, but why cause the damage in the first place if you can avoid it. This is the voice of bad experience speaking on the damage front. Once you join up, you can search the 2003 archives. The thread is titled "Removal of Stuck Windscreeen Frame" from January, 2003 concerning this particular misadventure.
First off I am doing the same total body off. Take all of the above advice. Especialy Arnolds on the slow and steady. Way to easy to get overwhelmed.
E-mail me. This is my 3rd one since 83. Total off on my own 72 in progress. Live in Canada so restoring frame rusted parts at present.
Windshield frame remove bottom bolt then just "loosen" and soak the clamp unit just above that bolt. The post passes through it and it does clamp down and hold but if you loosen it to much your twisting and pull will not break the rustup inside it.
If the car was painted the whole works will be glued as well a bit. The windshield frame unit is super strong. I have found rocking front and back with 2 guys and then a rocking steady motion while pulling up and back will get it.
My eldest son is 37 and youngest 19 couple of son inlaws as well. Nice boys but none of them drive my toys..:) My Buick T-type rebuilt is now pretty much history due to the youngest daughter street dragging for money. Nobody told me? Cars famous around town as Shannons Beuhla the Black beast. Many years later daughter is in med school and car is just tired. Projects do build up with kids?
The Bently manual will have more info on body but Haynes is a bit clearer on some mechanical issues. As well as the guys on this sight. I have the original Leyland as well. Pretty much the same as the Bently.
It took me 3 years for my body off restoration. I bought a bunch of boxes, 3 trannys ( 2 with OD..one complete the other in need of repair), 2 bodies, one frame, 2 windshield frames(removed:) , and a Very heavy engine.
Go to following link (directly to registration page).
I just tried the above link and it appears to be temporarily down. I tried "click here" and "JOIN US NOW". Once registered, I added this page to my list so I go directly to THIS page. Then, one this page, go to "customize" to enter your name and e-mail (if you wish).
The archives go back a few years and will give you many hours of good reading.
The one thing that has not been mentioned is "keep records". Meaning, keep notes as you disassemble/assemble. Place all little pieces in containers and label them...this you will appreciate in a few years time. With modern technology, a digital camera is a very usefull tool. This photographic record will be nice to have when you are finished as you can put it into an album and on prom night you can give it to your son and say; " remember I put a lot of time and money into this car...your scratch it, you fix it".
As for the manuals: The Haynes has been out of print for some time. If you can get one get it! I have the original shop manual which is available in reprint. Do not have Bentley so can not comment but hear it is good.
Other FREE catalogues to get are the set I have referred to as the bible Vol. 1 and 2.
Top R corner for cat. order...it appears VOl. #2 is currently out of print..bummer.
You will see in the posts these 2 refered to as it is easier to describe something via a picture. Also these 2 publications describe litterally every nut and bolt in a TR6.
1: TRF as linked above
2: MOSS Motors
Free parts cataloge with prices.
3: Victoria British
Same as MOSS
4: the advertiser top of this page
Jeff has a high reputation on this BBS. Prices and delivery very good.
There are more TR6 BBSs out there. I find this the best. There are also many links to TR6 car clubs that also have tech pages...good reading.
As far as your wind screen is concerned. I think the above posts have given you enough info for you to have fun:)
Above all..have fun with your restoration.
Obviously, ask away on any restoration question.
You want to check out the archives when you start the body removal...some precautions to be aware of.
Talk to you soon
Rick C '71.. 96/27.. TR6.
|Welcome to the club Pinto. Good luck with your project.|
I am also in the process of a frame off restoration. I started in June of 2002, am 544 hours into the project and if all goes well should be done in late May or early June of this year. I haven't visited the BBS too much the past year as things have been going relatively smoothly for me and in addition to the car, I find myself involved in far too many other volunteer activities that do not allow me a lot of time to sit down and visit regrettably. It is a great BBS.
The 1969 TR6 I am working on has sat unused from about 1983 and had a very corroded frame and body and siezed engine. The frame is welded. The engine rebuilt. The tranny with new oil seals and a myriad of other renewals- bearings, bushings, u-joints, etc. The front and back half of the body is repaired. I have to join the 2 halfs to the floor pans and door posts, finish the carburettors and clean/paint the interior pieces and then reassemble and paint as required.
|Mike Petryschuk- the obsessed TR6 rebuilder|
|I Too am just starting a restoration, I have Just picked up a 72 That has not been run for several years.|
It has been partially Stripped.
I have just ordered many body pannels from the roadster factory. I am looking forward to driving the car I have always wanted. I grew up on AHS/Midgets in the UK was never able to get the TR6 then.
|C A Wilson|
|Hi CA Wilson|
Welcome, sorry I don't know your first name.
Mines a 72 as well owned since 83 doing a frame off. Half the fun of driving the darn things is getting them road ready. Can be tricky little devils.
If you have questions ask.
|First of all, thanks to all for the nice welcome and great advice. I'm sorry I didn't reply sooner and don't want to appear rude or unthankful for the advice. The US Air Force pays for my Triumph parts so I had to go out of town for a few days and earn my keep. I was able to put some penetrating oil on before I left so I'll let you know how it goes. |
Steve P-I hope it doesn't come down to the torch but I will be checking the archives. As for the pry points, thanks for the advice on not trying it. As I was getting impatient on my last attempt I could tell I was going to ruin the body so luckily some rainfall got me to my senses and I stopped before any damage.
Bill, Mike and CA-Glad to hear I'm not alone, I'll be emailing you both right after this mass email. Thx
Rick Crawford-Thanks so much for all the info, I'm going to retry the membership right now and thanks for all the info on the books and advice on taking notes and pictures. I have plenty of the before pictures, it's the after pictures I'm worried about. Especially after reading all these threads and discovering things I never knew about or would have even thought about.
One nice thing about the past threads is exactly your statement. they are a nice bit of "bin' there don' that".
I see you had joy on registering:)
|Hi Pinto, and welcome to our corner of the web. You'll have minimal problems with your resto because of all the advice you'll receive from this group. They have helped my out considerably.|
By the way--are you the "Pinto" of Animal House movie fame?
|Thanks for the optimism, I needed it after spending 6 hours today and only got off one fender and the bonnet. Had a little problem cutting through some after market welding and bondo that was done over the years. Not to mention the occasional rusted bolt, everpresent hard to reach bolt and the skinned knuckle, sheared bolt. As for the Pinto, yes, it was an old call sign/nickname from the Animal House movie. Thanks again for the help, I just recommended someone starting off their resto on the 6 pack website to come on over here and learn from you all.|
One thing I forgot to mention. Keep track of the # of hours u spend on her. When u are done, you will want to gold plate the chrome:)
This thread was discussed between 03/03/2004 and 14/03/2004
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