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Triumph TR6 - Steering Column Rubber Coupling

Hi, Im Carlos from Barcelona, so excuse any mistake with my english.
Ive bought a new rubber coupling from Rimmer and found a greater separation between the holes ( about 5mm ). There are 4 holes and Im talking the separation of oposite , not adjacent holes. I hope you understand me.
Because the part is flexible I was able to mount it pressing the rubber with the help of a vice.
So, the question:
Is it safe to do this? Any posibility that the extra stress will brake the part ? We are talking about the steering of the car.
Thaks in advance

C Suarez

Carlos:
I had to do the same. It didn't seem quite right but I managed to get it in lace with a large cresent wrench and a lot of cursing.
BC
BC

carlos- That is the only way to get the bolts to line up. One way is with a BIG hose clamp, some have used vise grips. Good job on your creativneess.
dnk
DON KELLY

Thanks for your support.
By the way, I made the same question to Rimmer, and still waiting for the answer
C Suarez

I don't understand why someone doesn't just make one out of profane or similiar and drill the holes correctly. Would take out some of the slop in the steering
dnk
DON KELLY

Profane? Good one Don. You deserve a standing ovulation.
Berry Price
BTP Price

Maybe that should be prothane?
DNK
DON KELLY

I would be careful of knocking one up without a bit of R & D and good quality control. I don't think cutting or casting a slab of the stuff would work as the crush tubes would have to be bonded to the eurethane otherwise elongation / distortion of the holes occurs in shear and play in the steering would be worse.

I had a new OEM part but bought a eurethane one in UK (a decade ago from TRGB?!) thinking it would be superior. It seemed well made with the crush tubes bonded to the base material. After using it for 5 years I removed the steering column (RHD) to work on the exhaust and found that the eurethane had separated. While it was still doing the job,when I replaced it with the OE rubber one, there was a distinct improvement in the steering response.

For installation, first attach the unit to the lower steering rod (easy) then as Don suggests, tighten a large hose clamp around the upper pair and crush the holes togerther to bring them into alignment with the other rod. I believe the unit should be under some stress when installed properly. There is nothing wrong with the unit if it doesn't fit straight on.

RH
Roger H

Roger- I had a 73 Capri and in 78 I redid all the suspension and one of the best tricks was to replace the same style coupler as the 6 with one made of some kind of hard plastic.It was a solid piece with just the holes drilled thru. Induced a little more road feel but it sure quickened the steering.
dnk
DON KELLY

When it warmmmmmer up here this is on the to-do list.
Thanks guys.
Rick C
Rick Crawford

Toasty in my garage Rick!
dnk
DON KELLY

45 degrees and sunny here in Detroit area. Supposed to hit 60 deg. by the weekend. No snow and the lakes have lots of open water....come on spring!!

Henry
HP Henry Patterson

Hi Don - I'm not sure exactly what materials are being discussed here, but my experience was with polyeurethane and, as with you, I did it when all the suspension bits were changed to poly as well.

I guess my general point is that one should be very careful in making modifications to critical components such as steering (& brakes etc). This one in particular makes me nervous...!!

Most of the time, services (or inspections) tend to be done with the car wheels pointing straight ahead, the underside of the steering coupling is often forgotten. Close inspection for cracks, splits etc is tricky, however, a small tear could become a serious issue under torsion in a heavy corner.

While regular inspection of critical components should be done every so often (service manual?), I have a feeling there is a lot that is ignorned, particularly when home maintenance is carried out by (generally) untrained, but enthusiastic owners, me included.

Another which seems to be overlooked regularly is the front stub axle REPLACEMENT which I seem to remember should be done at a recommended 100,000 miles - not a major expense or very difficult to do... but I wonder how many have been done at the recommended time?

I did mine when I found there was some bearing wear on the axles, otherwise I probably would not have done it. I only found the 'replacement' reference buried somewhere in the manual when I was changing them!

Roll on summer - I feel for you guys.... but there again..."abstinence makes the wand grow harder" .... or something like that..!

RH
Roger H

The thing that scares me is all that cheap spares ( made in China ?) that TR6 suppliers sell to us. Ive changed the two stub axles and bearings; one side fitted perfect, but the other Ive had to work quite a lot with emeril to fit the bearing.

If in the future ( or right now ), and thinking in optimizing profits, all the parts will be made by the same kind of manufacture ( including parts for airplanes !), well , you know ...
C Suarez

This thread was discussed between 03/03/2006 and 08/03/2006

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