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Triumph TR6 - Steering Rebuild

making progress removing front suspension. Question...what do I do to rebuild the steering? I have new polyurethane supports and tie rods ends but what about the innards beneath the gaiters? Anything to do there other than clean, inspect and re-lubricate before replacing the rubber gaiters?
db
Doug Baker

I rebuilt mine. Don't remember what I did but I remember I had it at a friends auto garage to do it.
Don Kelly

Doug,

Usually clean and grease is sufficient but sometimes those bushings worn out and should be replaced. Unfortunately some are non-available from Moss. If you can't find missing parts a new rack system is less than $180....

But in steering the only pain in... I had is upper steering bushing wobble. This guy has a solution:

http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/SteeringColumn.htm

Cheers,

Jean G.
J. G. Catford

JC,
I'm OK on the steering column!! Will rebuild it sort of like Bob Danielson's experience except I don't intend to use gorilla glue on the bushings. I'm talking about the rack and pinion set up. I intend to replace the tie rods, no problem as well as ALL the rubber components to the suspension. It's the gear box and cross bar...those things under the rubber gaiters about which I'm questioning. Is there anymore to do there than clean, lubricate properly and reassemble?
db
Doug Baker

Doug:
I replaced the rack with one from Moss at $199; a better deal I thought than replacing the two inner tie rods at $69 each and still have a 35 year old rack. Do yourself a favor and do a very close inspection of the rack mounting points. When I removed the rack I cleaned all the accumulated crud from the mount area and found cracked welds on both sides. Kind of explains why the front end felt "lively" over the bumpy bits. Having a buddy come by the garage with his mig to weld it all back snug, then repaint the area and install the new rack. Pics I took may be big but I'll try posting the passenger side here. View is from standing in front of the grille looking down at the rack mounting points. Cracks are in the same place on each side; top right weld on driver's side, top left weld on passenger side. The car had a pretty good "thump" on the big front cross member but all measurements are dead on with the micrometer so suspect metal fatigue as the main culprit.
Cheers,
Bob

Bob Evans

Doug:
Second pic - driver's side.Mount will be clamped back into original position to close the gap shown. Same process on pass side but not as noticeable.
Bob

Bob Evans

Yes Doug,

I understood that and I Bob agrees with rack replacement also if after inspection bushings need replacement. If you need only to clean and put new lubricant here is a link on that matter:

http://trf.zeni.net/TR6-250GC/108.php?s_wt=1680&s_ht=1050

Cheers,

Jean G.
J. G. Catford

This thread was discussed between 27/04/2012 and 28/04/2012

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