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Triumph TR6 - steps for properly winterizing a tr6
|Anyone have a good checklist of steps to take to properly winterize a car and put it to sleep for the next 5 months?|
or know where to find one?
|Austin T. Brown|
|Austin this is a common question, and answers seem to vary.|
Some previous threads should be in the archive, but to get you started here is a brief list.
1) Store indoors if at all possible, heat not necessary but best to avoid sudden changes in temp. to prevent condensation.
2) Put up top to keep it from getting creased and to keep mice or insects out. Put on cover or dust sheet if you have one.
3)Trickle charge battery every month or so to keep charged up, clean terminals (doesn't have to be in car for this).
4) My opinion is that it is good to start the car once a month or so, on warmer days, as this means the same valve springs are not held in compressed position for several months. If you can actually drive the car even better as it prevents seals drying out (not that kind of seal!) and prevents brakes seizing, clutch sticking etc. But note that you do not want to run it for just a few minutes as it will cause oil contamination by condensation of water, acids and unburned fuel, so if you start the engine run it long enough to warm up thoroughly.
That will get you started!
|Simon's tips are good, especially the valve spring exercising. If you don't plan on starting the engine for the duration (like me), consider also:|
--Install fuel shut off valve to prevent accidental draining through carb bowls.
--Add fuel stabilizer and top off the tank.
--Change the oil/filter one last time, turn the fuel off, and fog the carb intakes until the fuel burns out of the carb bowls. Then remove the plugs and fog each cylinder.
--Remove valve cover and loosen the rocker pedestal nuts to shut all the valves/decompress the springs.
--Remove battery and put it on maintenance charge in the house.
--Cover the carb intakes & exhaust tips with plastic wrap/aluminum foil.
--If possible, roll the car over a sheet of plastic.
--If possible, raise the wheels off the ground. Alternatively, just put max pressure in the tires.
--Don't set the emergency brake!
--Ensure coolant glycol concentration is sufficient for the storage temps.
--Loosen the top latches, crack the windows a half-inch or so, remove the rubber floormats, and shroud the car with a BREATHABLE cover.
--Dream of Spring '05!
If you aren't able to take the car for a run [at least 20 miles]I think you are better turning the engine over by hand rather than running it, anything I've read suggests that running an unloaded engine doesn't generate enough heat to get rid of the nasties.
I also leave a small tubular heater [100w] on under it, I've found this quite successful at keeping the condensation away.
|Rick, not familiar with the term fog or process of fogging???|
|Bill--Fogging is spraying with an aerosol "fog" of oil to coat and protect the intake/cylinder surfaces from corrosion. The procedure is normally done with the engine running to a stall. Then removing the plugs and fogging each cylinder for good measure. Look for fogging oil in a spray can in the marine supply section of Wal Mart or any auto parts house. I once owned a bug that I stored without fogging and the rings stuck to their bores; had to rebuild the engine to fix it.|
I now stuff a couple of old cloths in the exhaust pipes
at this time of year since the chipmunks moved in last winter and my God what a smell when you start up in the spring.
|Got this as an email attachment from Moss this evening:|
Don from Jersey
This thread was discussed between 09/11/2004 and 16/11/2004
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